I-CIRCULATING 


CY 


mm 


TO  N     C 


mOUGH    KNGLAND,    SCOTLAND,   .IRELAND, 
WALKS,   DENMARK,   NORWAY,  SWEDEN, 

Russia,  poland,  and  spain. 


HENKY    WIS'THEDF    SARGENT. 


' 


^PT^*1  ^^TT^*^  ^^T^*^  ^^T^*" 


Ex 

Libris 

BEATRIX 
FARRAND 


REEF  POINT  GARDENS 
LIBRARY 


The  Gift  of  Beatrix  Farrand 

to  the  General  Library 

University  of  California, Berkeley 


SKELETON  TOURS 


THROUGH    ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND,    IRELAND, 

WALES,  DENMARK,  NORWAY,  SWEDEN, 

RUSSIA,   ROLAND,   AND   SRAIN, 


VARIOUS  WAYS  OF  GETTING  FROM  PLACE  TO  PLACE,  THE  TIME 

OCCUPIED,  AND  THE  COST  OF  EACH  JOURNEY  TO  A  PARTY 

OF  FOUR.    WITH  SOME  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  THINGS 

TO  SEE,  ESPECIALLY  COUNTRY  HOUSES. 


BY 


IIEXRY  WIXTIIROP  SARGEXT. 


NEW  YORK: 

D.    APPLETOX    AXD    COMPANY, 

5  19    &    5  5  1    B  ROAD  W  A  Y . 

1371. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1S70,  by 

D.   APPLETON  &  CO., 

;n  the  Clerk's  Cffice  of  the  District  Conrt  of  the  United  States  for 

the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 

LANDSCAPE 
ARCHITECTURE 


VflWflrruJ  Giff 


0309 


LANDSCAPg 

ARCH. 

UBRAR? 


PREFACE 

TnE  object  of  the  author  in  publishing  these  little 
tours  is  twofold.  One,  and  the  principal,  is  to  answer 
the  universal  question  of  all  travellers — "  How  do  yoii 
get  from  one  place  to  another,  and  how  long  does  it 
take?  "  and,  secondly,  "  What  does  it  cost?  " 

To  Americans,  who  do  not  shrink  from  purchasing 
in  London  forced  peaches  at  a  guinea  apiece,  the  hitter 
question  is  not  usually  so  important  as  the  former. 
To  most  of  my  countrymen  expenditure  of  time  is 
more  disturbing  than  that  of  money. 

There  are  plenty  of  guide-books  in  the  world,  and 
very  excellent  ones  too,  which  give  you  every  sort  of 
general  information  when  you  arrive  at  a  place,  and 
which  also  give  you  a  general  idea  of  how  to  get 
there;  but  none,  that  I  am  aware  of,  which  specify 
precisely  the  exact  way  and  time  of  passing  from  ono 
place  to  another.  This  is  especially  true  of  out-of-the- 
way  places — "the  nooks  and  corners  of  England,*' 
and  countries  comparatively  unknown,  Buch   a>  Nor- 

845 


4  PREFACE. 

way,  Sweden,  Denmark,  Russia,  and  even  Spain. 
Many  travellers  would  visit  these  countries,  could  they 
have  placed  before  tliem  the  exact  ways  and  means 
of  accomplishing  these  tours,  both  time  and  cost.  The 
burden  of  finding  out  how  to  travel  in  Norway,  for 
instance — how  to  get  there,  where  to  go,  what  to  see, 
and  what  money  to  take — is  so  great,  that  impatient 
or  indolent  persons  give  it  up  in  despair,  and  prefer  to 
follow  the  old  beaten  tracks  of  Italy  or  Switzerland, 
or  spend  the  balance  of  their  time  and  money  in  Paris. 
It  is  to  aid  this  class  that  these  little  guides  have  been 
published.  The  author  does  not  pretend  that  they  are 
the  best  routes  that  could  be  taken ;  in  fact,  much  was 
omitted  in  his  various  journeys  which  would,  no  doubt, 
be  very  interesting  to  a  large  class  of  travellers,  and 
there  is  a  good  deal  done  in  England  which,  to  persons 
who  have  no  rural  taste,  had  better  be  omitted ;  and 
it  might  not  be  amiss  to  say  here  that  the  author's  tour 
in  England  was  mainly  to  see  all  the  country  places 
worth  seeing,  large  or  small,  and  in  mentioning  these 
he  has  been  led  to  go  into  more  detail  in  their  descrip- 
tion than  is  consistent  with  the  original  intention  of 
these  guides;  and  he  has  been  induced  to  do  this 
solely  for  the  sake  of  calling  the  attention  of  those 
travellers  interested  in  such  matters  to  these  very 
extraordinary  places — such  as  El  vast  on  Castle,  Bid- 
dulph    Grange,    Alton   Towers,    Levens    Hall,    etc. — 


PREFA  CE.  5 

which,  being  off  the  common  line  of  travel,  and  nol 
usually  mentioned  in  English  guide-books,  would  not 
otherwise  he  known;  secondly,  to  see  all  the  cathe- 
drals ;  thirdly,  the  university  and  school  towns ;  and 
fourthly,  the  various  watering-places  and  spas.  In 
accomplishing  these  several  objects,  it  was  necessary 
to  go  over  the  length  and  breadth  of  England,  acros3 
country,  by  post  as  well  as  by  rail ;  and  although,  as 
before  said,  the  English  route  might  have  been  better, 
yet  the  author  cannot  but  think  that  any  one  following 
his  footsteps  would  see  and  know  more  of  England 
than  most  Englishmen,  and  quite  as  much  as  any 
American  traveller  would  care  to  know.  The  same  is 
true,  in  a  more  limited  extent,  perhaps,  of  Spain  and 
the  northern  countries.  The  old  track  through  France, 
Italy,  Germany,  and  Switzerland,  is  so  well  beaten  that 
it  has  been  omitted. 

As  to  the  expense  of  these  journeys,  it  must,  of 
course,  depend  very  much  upon  the  purse  and  inclina- 
tion of  the  traveller.  The  prices  mentioned  in  these 
tours  were  for  a  party  of  four,  without  reference  to 
expense,  having  always  the  best  apartments  at  hotels, 
with  private  meals  invariably,  and  the  best  convey- 
ances, either  rail  or  carriage — not,  however,  including 
extras,  wines,  or  amusements — and  during  the  years 
180G-G8.  Of  course,  four  persons  might  travel  at 
much  less  cost,  by  taking  cheaper  conveyance- 


6  PREFACE. 

sionally,  second-class  carriages  on  the  railways,  and 
their  meals  at  a  table  d'hote.  It  must,  however,  be 
understood  that  four  persons  can  travel  cheaper  than 
two,  or  even  one,  in  proportion,  for  various  reasons 
not  necessary  to  mention  here. 

In  conclusion,  the  author  would  simply  remark  that 
these  little  tours — the  one  through  England  being 
especially  horticultural,  calling  attention  to  certain 
country  places  seldom  visited  or  even  known  to  Amer- 
icans— arc  particularly  intended  to  assist  those  who 
have  not  time  or  interest  enough  to  work  out  their 
own  journey  (a  matter  always  sufficiently  perplexing), 
and  who  are  willing  to  he  satisfied  with  seeing  what 
the  writer  has  seen.  The  time-tables  of  the  various 
railways  and  boats  have,  of  course,  changed,  and  it 
would  be  necessary  to  alter  the  journey  as  far  as  this; 
but  the  time,  of  course,  is  always  the  same  in  making 
the  journey,  though  the  hours  may  have  changed.  The 
season  of  the  year  when  these  journeys  were  made  has 
been  retained  in  the  guides,  as  the  best  for  the  differ- 
ent tours,  though  by  no  means  necessary. 

n.  W.  S. 

"Wodenethe.  Fislikill-on-IIudson,  1S70. 


SKELETON  TOURS. 


FIRST    TOUR. 

EXGLAXD,     IBELA.ND,     SCOTLAND,     AND     WALES. 

(For  Four  Persons.) 

Aiiy.  13. — Breakfast  at  Qaeenstown.  Walk 
about  the  town.  Take  steamer  at  9.30  up  the 
River  Lea  to  Cork,  13  miles,  in  preference  to 
rail.  Lunch  at  Imperial  Hotel,  after  which 
drive  in  jaunting-car  to  Blarney  Castle  and  to 
the  Groves  of  Blarney,  seeing  yews  TOO  years 
old,  and  an  Arauc  iria  15  feet  high.  Expens  - 
at  Queenstown,  custom-house  fees,  and  break- 
fast,    

Aug.  19. — Walk  or  drive  about  the  town, 
seeing  the  churches  ;  drive  to  the  country-place 
ofMr.Leigh.  Beautiful  Araucarias,  Pinus  in- 
signis,  Thujopais, etc.;  exquisite  flower-garden. 

Aug.  20. — About  town  in  the  morning;  after  — 
lunch,  in  a  jaunting-car  to  Black  Rock  Oastle, 

7 


cor.K  J  IRELAND.  [impbbial  hotel. 

and  to  Mr.  Pike's  plaoe — very  beautiful  flowers.  £  s. 
Back  by  Cemetery,  seeing  Father  Matthew's  2  5 
grave — car 10 

Aug.  21.— Leave  Cork  for  Youghal,  by  rail, 
at  9.40,  reaching  Yonghal  at  10.45.  Drive 
through  the  town  to  Sir  Walter  Raleigh's 
house,  where  the  first  potatoes  were  planted, 
and  the  yew-trees,  where  Sir  Walter  smoked 
his  pipe  to  the  horror  of  his  servants,  who, 
thinking  him  on  fire,  poured  water  over  him. 
The  house  very  quaint,  with  walls  and  fire- 
places panelled  in  black  Irish  hog-oak.  See 
St.  Mary's  Church,  founded  in  the  eleventh  cen- 
tury. At  2,  taking  boat,  steam  up  the  Black- 
water,  with  exquisite  views  and  places  ;  arrive 
at  Cappoquin  at  4;  where,  taking  a  jaunting- 
car,  drive  through  "  Belmont,  "Sir  John  Keane's, 
a  grand  old  place,  with  some  fine  cedars  of 
Lebanon,  to  the  monastery  at  Mallory,  4  miles, 
containing  100  Trappists,  vowed  to  perpetual 
silence;  thence,  4  miles  farther,  to  Lismore, 
where  dine  and  sleep  at  the  Devonshire  Arms. 
Fare  to  Youghal,  12s. ;  lunch  and  car,  12s. ; 
boat,  Gs. ;  car,  12s., 2     2 

Aug.  23. — Visit  Lismore  Castle,  a  splendid 
restoration  by  the  late  Duke  of  Devonshire,  and 
also  to  a  most  exquisite  little  place  belonging 
to  Mr.  Baldwin  ;  at  12,  take  cars  to  Fermoy,  12 
miles,  and  back  to  Cork.  Expenses  at  Lis- 
more,          1  12 

Aug.  24. — Leave  Cork  in  posting-carriage,  at  

9.30,  passing  through  the  finest  possible  scenery.       6     9 

8 


lismo:-.:.]  IRELAND.  [lvxdsdow.v  arms. 

About  1,  reach  Inchigeelagh  to  lunch  (wonder-  £  s. 
fully  .situated,  in  the  wildest  and  most  extraor-  <i  9 
dinary  scenery).  Soon  after  starting,  at  2,  pass 
the  lake  of  Gougane-Barra,  where  whoever 
bathes  in  its  waters  is  saved  from  all  diseases, 
and  enter  the  far-famed  pass  of  Keeiman  Eigh, 
perhaps  one  of  the  wildest  and  most  savage  in 
the  world,  about  2  miles  long,  and  celebrated 
as  the  place  where  the  O'Lcarys  and  O'Sulli- 
vans,  after  tliey  were  outlawed,  lived  for  cen- 
turies, preying  upon  strangers  and  their  neigh- 
bors, and  where  the  illicit  distilleries  are  even 
now  concealed.  It  was  in  this  pass,  also, 
that  the  White  Boys  destroyed  the  royal  troops 
by  throwing  rocks  down  upon  them.  Pro- 
ceeding round  the  head  of  the  beautiful  Bay  of 
Bantry,  reach  Roche's  Hotel,  at  Glengariff,  at 
8  p.  m.,  having  posted  C6  miles  from  Cork,, 
changing  horses  only  once.  Bill  at  Cork,  five 
days,  £10  10s. ;  post-horses  to  Killarney,  £6  15s.,     17    5 

Aug.  25. — At  Glengariff.       .... 

Aug.  2G. — Leave  Glengariff  at  9,  in  posting- 
carriage,  passing  Cromwell's  Bridge  and  ascend- 
ing the  mountains  for  4  miles,  until,  after  pass- 
ing through  a  tunnel  GOO  feet  long,  you  come 
suddenly  upon  the  kingdom  of  Kerry,  the 
whole  property  for  20  miles  belonging  to  the 
Marquis  of  Lansdown.  Arrive  at  12.30, 
through  the  most  sublime  views  of  the  Killar- 
ney and  Kerry  Mountains,  at  Kenmare,  where 

lunch   at    the      Lansdown   Arms.     Visit    the 

convent,   where  beautiful  Irish   lace   may  be     23  14 

9 


KILLARXEY.]  IRELAND.  [victoria  hotel. 

bought.  Starting  again  at  3,  reach  the  Victoria  £  s. 
Hotel  at  Killamey  at  8.  J'. ill  at  Glengariff,  £4  23  14 
li»s. ;  lunch  at  Kenmare,  10s.,  .        .        .        .50 

A»g.  27. — Take  a  four-oared  boat  and  bugler 
at  9;  row  to  Ross  Castle;  built  in  twelfth 
century;  destroyed  in  the  civil  war  by  Crom- 
well;  once  the  stronghold  of  the  O 'Donahue, 
whose  spirit  still  appears  once  in  seven  years. 
Thence,  by  Lady  Kenmare's  Cottage,  through 
the  Wier  Bridge  to  Eagle's  Nest,  where  the 
bugle-echoes  are  most  beautiful;  to  upper 
lake,  where  lunch,  returning  at  1  to  Mucross, 
<  ^Sullivan's  Cascade,  and  Innisfallen,  perhaps 
the  most  beautiful  spot  in  the  world ;  an 
island  of  21  acres,  with  magnificent  park-trees; 
a  thorn  140  feet  in  circumference  (the  head), 
and  a  holly  14  feet  in  circumference  (the  stem) ; 
a  splendid  old  abbey  in  ruins,  built  in  seventh 
century.     Return  at  5  p.  at 

Aug.  28. — "Walk  through  Lord  Kenmare's 
grounds,  and,  after  lunch,  by  jaunting-car  to 
Mucross  Abbey,  a  most  charming  and  well-pre- 
served ruin,  800  years  old.  In  the  centre  of 
the  cloisters  is  a  yew  coeval  with  the  abbey,  10 
feet  in  circumference  (the  trunk),  and  said  to 
be  the  highest  in  Europe.  Afterward,  home 
to  dinner,  through  Mr.  Herbert's  grounds. 
For  those  who  have  time  or  inclination,  a  very 
agreeable  excursion  may  be  made  through  the 
Gap  of  Dunloe  and  Kate  Kearney's  Cottage.    . 

Aug.  29. — Leave  Killarney  at  10.30,  by  train. - 

Reach  Limerick,  Cruise's  Royal  Hotel,  at  2.30.     28  14 

10 


limerick.]  IRELAND,    [cruise's  botai  hotel. 

See  the  cathedral,  built  in  1 100,  partly  destroyed      £    s. 

by  Cromwell  ;    very  ancient   and  interestiu,tr,     28  14 

especially  the  tombs  of  the  O'Briens  ;  also  tbe 

old  castle  built  by  King  John.    Bill  (two  days) 

at  Killarney  and  boat,       .         .         .         .  7  15 

Aug.   30. — Leave  Limerick  at  12.      Reach 
Dublin  at  6,  Gresham  Hotel.     Bill  at  Limerick,      2  10 
Fare  by  rail  to  Dublin  and  car,         .         .  3  10 

Aug.  31. — Take  car  and  drive  round  the  town 
to  Bank  of  Ireland,  the  different  churches,  the 
city  hall,  the  Four  Courts,  the  Custom-House, 
Trinity  College,  with  fine  portraits  in  the  din- 
ing-hall  of  Queen  Elizabeth  and  Dean  Swift. 

Sept.  1. — Take  car  at  9.30  and  drive  to  Phce- 
nix  Park.  See  the  viceregal  lodge  and  the 
Chief  Secretary's  house,  also  the  castle,  where 
the  chapel  and  state  apartments  are  very  fine. 
See  Glas  Nevin  Cemetery. 

Sept.  2. — Sunday,  to  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral, 
where  Dean  Swift  once  officiated.  After  lunch, 
to  Bray  by  rail — a  celebrated  watering-place — 
here,  taking  a  car,  drive  to  Lord  Monck's  and 
Lord  Powerscourt's  ;  dine  at  Bray  ;  back  to 
Dublin  by  train  at  8.  Expenses  to  and  from 
Bray,  16s. ;  dinner,  £1  3s. ;  car,  10s.,       .         .29 

Sept.  3. — Go  by  train  at  10.30  to  Maynooth. 
See  the  Institution,  and  also  Carton  near  by, 
the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Leinster,  with 
most  beautiful  grounds  and  superb  trees,  espe- 
cially cedars  of  Lebanon  ;  the  house  charmingly 
situated,  over  an  Italian  garden,  and  in  view 


44  IS 


n 


lam.ix.J  IRELAND.  [ohesham  hotel. 

of  a  splendid  park,  the  vases  in  the  garden  £  s. 
being  enclosed  in  wicker-work.  Back  to  Dub-  44  IS 
lin  at  5.     Expenses,  rail,  ....  12 

To  those  disposed  to  go  to  the  Giant's  Cause- 
way, via  Belfast,  and  return  to  Dublin,  the 
time  occupied  would  be  about  four  days.  35111 
at  Dublin,  one  week,  four  persons,  .        .        .    23    6 

Sept.  4. — Leave  Dublin  at  G  a.  m.  and 
Kingstown  at  7,  by  boat,  reaching  Holyhead  at 
11,  and  by  train  in  an  hour  to  the  Menai  Bridge. 
George  Inn,  one  of  the  best  in  England,  in  full 
view  of  the  suspension  bridge.  After  lunch, 
take  a  carriage  and  drive  to  Bangor,  a  quaint  old 
town,  and  to  Penryn  Castle,  seeing  the  model 
cottages,  the  old  church,  and  splendid  yew 
avenue,  150  years  old.  Back  to  dinner.  Fare 
from  Dublin  to  Holyhead,         .         .         .  3  16 

Sept.  5. — Leave  the  hotel  at  9  in  carriage,  8 
miles  to  Carnarvon,  a  splendid  old  castle,  built 
in  12 S3  by  King  Edward  L,  and  in  fine  pres- 
ervation. Then  9  miles  farther,  through  the 
grand  pass  of  Llanberris,  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  in  Europe,  in  full  sight  of  Snow- 
don,  3,571  feet  high,  returning  to  the  George 
Inn  to  dine.     Expenses  and  lunch,  .         .  1  15 

Sept.  G. — By  carriage  to  Plas  Newydd,  seat 
of  the  Marquis  of  Anglesea;  a  fine  park,  grand 
trees,  and  superb  views  of  the  Snowdon  range; 
also  to  Beaumaris  Castle,  a  very  interesting 
ruin,  built  by  Edward  L,  and  having  20  towers. 

Return  to  the  George  to  lunch.     Taking  train 

at  2.15,  reach  Chester  at  5  (Queen's  Hotel),     74    7 

12 


MEXAI  BRIDGE.]  WALES.  [TB  E  Q  I.  I        E  IX:r. 

where  see  the  cathedral,  built  (a  large  portion)      £    s. 

in  875,  also  some  of  the  old  streets  and  houses.     74    7 
Bill  at  the  George  Inn,  two  days,     .        .        .9  17 

Sept.  7. — Take  a  carriage  and  drive  to  Eaton 
Hall,  the  Marquis  of  Westminster,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Chester;  the  place  very  grand  an  1 
stately.  A  very  fine  specimen  of  Araucari 
imbricata  here.  Back  to  Chester  to  lunch, 
after  which  drive  2  miles  or  so,  to  Iloole 
House.  Mrs.  Hamilton's,  formerly  Lady  Brough- 
ton's,  famous  for  its  rock-work  for  over  30  years ; 
a  little  lawn,  of  less  than  an  acre,  surrounded 
by  a  rockery  over  40  feet  high;  planted  with 
clipped  yews,  Araucarias,  etc. ;  28  circular 
beds  of  raised  baskets  on  the  lawn.  The  whole 
kept  in  most  exquisite  order.  Cab,  18s. ;  fees,  3s.,       1     1 

Sept.  8. — Sunday;  to  the  cathedral  in  the 
morning,  and.  to  St.  John's  Church  in  the 
afternoon — tho  oldest  in  Chester,  founded  in 
089;  after  service,  round  the  walls  and  through 
the  old  arcades.     Bill  at  Chester,      .         .  8  17 

Sept.  9. — Leave  Chester  by  rail  for  Liver 

at  9  (the  Adel phi);  faro, 12 

where,  taking  carriage,  drive  8  miles  to  Know 
ley,  Earl  of  Derby's,  first  getting  a  pass  at 
your  banker's,  which  will  occupy  two  to  three 
hours  to  see;  the  stables  being  especially- fine, 
a  quadrangle  of  200  feet  square,  enclosing  a 
paved  yard  ;  in  the  centre  a  place  forwashi 
carriages;  beyond,  a  circle  in  straw  for  exer- 
cising horses,  each  pair  of  horses  being  kept  in  

boxes,  in  a  separate  stable  ;  30  pairs,  the  beat     94  11 
2  •  13 


iivir.rooL.]  ENGLAND.  [the  adei.i'hi 

costu  grooms,  6  coachmen.      £    s. 

The  gardens  contain  9  acres ;  require,  with  the  94  14 
ornamental  grounds,  35  men  and  5  women. 
The  park  is  12  miles  in  circumference,  and  the 
deer-park  14  miles,  the  latter  containing  :i.000 
deer.  There  are  25  lodges  and  gates,  and  50 
other  cottages  and  houses.  On  the  drive  hack 
to  Liverpool,  see  Botanic  Garden.    . 

Sept.  10. — Walk  or  drive  through  the  town, 
peeing  the  docks,  Exchange,  and  the  park  at 
Birkenhead,       ....... 

Sept.  11. — Leave  Liverpool  (bill),  .  7  10 

at  9,  by  train,  reaching  Bowness  on  Lake  Win- 
dermere, at  12.45.  (The  Queen's.)  After  lunch 
take  steamer  at  2.30  and  make  the  entire  cir- 
cumference of  the  lake,  11  miles  long.  The 
portion  about  Ambleside  and  the  Little  River 
at  the  other  end  being  particularly  beautiful. 
Fare,  Liverpool  to  Bowness,      .        .         .        .36 

Sejit.  12. — By  carriage  12  miles  to  Levens 
Hall,  near  Milnthrop,  an  old  Elizabethan  man- 
sion, a  part  built  in  the  eleventh  century ;  the 
furniture,  hangings,  etc.,  all  belonging  to  this 
period ;  a  fine  old  servants'  hall  in  oak,  with 
an  immense  fireplace,  six  to  eight  feet  wide, 
and  1582  over  it ;  with  long  tables  and 
benches  round  the  sides  for  the  servants'  meals. 
Above  this,  a  baronial  hall  panelled  in  oak, 
heavily  carved  and  hung  in  leather,  with  ex- 
quisitely-emblazoned windows,  square  bays,  in 
small  diamond  and  hexagon  patterns,  set   in 

lead ;  an  oak  floor  with  a  square  of  Turkey  carpet  105  10 

14 


bowness.]  FXGZAXD,  [the  qikkx'.-. 

in  the  centre.    Armor,  boar-spears,  and  saddles,      £    s. 

etc.,  about  the  room.  This  opened  by  three  105  1" 
descending  steps  into  the  drawing-room,  so 
beautifully  carved  in  wood  that,  at  present 
prices  of  labor,  it  is  estimated  the  same  work 
would  cost  £3,000.  This  also  hung  in  gilded 
and  embossed  leather,  and  from  which  opened 
several  quaint  and  curious  rooms  similarly 
treated  and  hung.  In  some  were  concealed 
doors,  behind  the  arras  leading  by  dim  and 
mysterious  corridors  to  obscure  chambers.  The 
gardens  equally  wonderful,  seven  acres  being 
devoted  to  topiary  work,  most  of  it  planted 
and  first  clipped  by  Beaumont,  gardener  to 
James  I.,  and  generally  of  yew  and  box,  and 
some  holly,  from  twelve  to  thirty  feet  high. 
There  are  also  pleached  alleys,  as  described  by 
Shakespeare,  divided  by  beech-hedges  thirteen 
feet  high,  and  the  arches  twenty.  The  grass 
walks  or  alleys  laid  down  250  years  ago,  on 
slate  beds  eight  inches  below  the  surface,  and 
perfectly  level,  like  a  billiard-table,  used  for 
bowling-greens.     Back  to  Bowness  to  dinner, 

Sept.  13. — Leave  Bowness  in  posting-carriage 
at  9,  passing  up  the  lake  by  Ellery,  where 
Wilson,  and  afterward  Colonel  Hamilton,  author 
of  "  Cyril  Thornton,"  lived,  by  Bydal  Lake  and 
Rydal Mount  (Wordsworth's honse),  Grrassmere, 
liaise  Gap,  Therlmcre  Lake,  Legerthrait  to 
Keswick,   23  miles.     Alter  lunch,  drive  with 

another  carriage  round  Derwentwater,  by  Bar 

row    House   and  Barrow  Falls,  the  Bowder  L05  l  ' 

13 


i  k.]  ENGLAND.  [r.oYAL  oak. 

Stone,    Lowdore    Falls,    Rorthrait,   Setollers.     £   s. 
l1  three  hours' drive — if  time,  extend  drive  105  10 
three  hours  longer  to  Honister  Pass,  Gates 
Grath,  Bnttermere,  Orummock  Lake,  and  Vale 
ofNewland,  back  to  Keswick  to  dine  and  sleep,  . 

Sept.  1-1. — Walk  to  Greta  Hall  (Sonthey'a 
residence),  and  leaving  Keswick  at  10.  In 
carriage  drive  past  the  head  of  St.  John's  Vale, 
Threlkeld,  Moor  End,  Mell  Fell,  Matterdale, 
with  a  splendid  yew,  Docray,  Gow-Barrow 
park,  very  grand,  with  fine  views  of  Ulswater, 
Lynlph's  Tower,  with  a  quaint  old  dining-room, 
in  oak,  Arra-force  Fall,  Patterdale,  where  dine 
at  Brownrigg's,  an  excellent  inn.  At  4,  start- 
ing again  by  Brother's  Lake,  over  the  Kirk- 
stone  Pass,  where  is  the  highest  inhabited  house 
in  England,  1,470  feet  above  the  lake.  Reach 
Boness  by  Troutbeck,  and  Crook's  house  to  tea. 
Bill  at  Keswick,  and  Patterdale,       .         .         .       4     4 

Nothing  can  well  be  finer  than  these  lakes, 
mountains,  and  drives,  except  those  at  Kil- 
larney,  which  are  grander,  though  not  as  soft 
and  beautiful.  In  Patterdale  churchyard  is  a 
yew  perhaps  a  1,000  years  old,  and  18  feet  in 
circumference,  ...... 

Sept.  15. — Leave  Bowness  at  of  for  Penrith; 
after  waiting  one  and  a  half  hours  for  a  con- 
nection at  Oxenham,  reach  Penrith  (The 
Crown) at  9.  Bill  at  Bowness,  £13  14;  fare  to 
Penrith,  £1  15s., 15     9 

Sept.  10. — Taking  posting-carriage,  drive  to 

Broinrham  Hall,  Lord  Brongham's,  and  also  to  125     3 

16 


bdinbubgh.]  SCOTLAXD.  [-windsob  n 

Lowther  Castle,  the  latter  very  magnificent,  £  8. 
with  a  fine  collection  of  pictures,  especially  125  3 
Hogarth's,  and  a  splendid  park  of  GOO  acres. 
Leaving  Penrith  at  1.23  by  rail,  reach  Edin- 
burgh at  5.45.  Windsor  Hotel,  in  Moray 
Place.  Expenses  at  Penrith  and  to  Edin- 
burgh,        4  10 

Sept.  18. — Take  a  carriage-drive  through 
Princes  and  George  Streets,  to  the  Castle, 
Grassniarkct,  Canongate,  St.  Giles,  Parliament 
House  and  Square,  John  Knox's  House,  and 
Holyrood  Palace,  seeing  Queen  Mary's  apart- 
ment and  the  scene  of  Rizzio's  murder.  Back 
along  the  Queen's  drive,  by  Salisbury  Crags  and 
Arthur's  seat,  Dean  Bridge,  Heriot's  Hospital, 
the  Cowgate,  very  extraordinary  for  the  dense- 
ness  of  its  population,  carriage,  ...  15 

Sept.  19. — Leave  Edinburgh  at  9.40,  by  North 
British  Rail  for  Melrose,  37  miles,  where,  taking 
cab,  drive  three  miles  to  Abbotsford,  see  house 
and  gardens,  a  wall  of  yew,  thirteen  years 
planted,  with  medallions  set  in,  being  especially 
fine.  Back  to  Melrose  to  lunch,  afterward  to 
the  Abbey  (elose  to  the  inn),  founded  in 
113G;  and  by  fly  four  miles  to  Dryburgh  Ab- 
bey, founded  in  1150,  with  a  yew  of  the  sam  ■ 
age.  Return  to  Edinburgh  by  rail  at  5.-°>0. 
Fare  to  Melrose  and  back,  £2  10s;  fees.  3s.; 
lunch,  4s.,        . 2   17 

Sept.  20. — Leave  Edinburgh  at  1.20  by  train, 

reaching  Stirling  at  2.15  ;   visit  the  castle  with  

one  of  the  finest  views.     Take  another  train  at   L32     6 

17 


GLASGOW.]  SCOTLAND.  [the  geoege. 

go  on  to  Callender  at  6,  to  dine  and  Bleep  £  s. 
(The  Dreadnought).  Bill  at  Edinburgh,  three  182  6 
days,  67  L5s. ;  fare  to  Callender,  £1  5s.,         .      9    0 

Sept.  21. — Leave  Callender  in  posting-car- 
riage at  9,  reaching  the  inn  at  the  Trossachs  at 
11.  Walk  over  the  mountain  to  the  celebrated 
]  ;  ssof  Aberfoil,  to  Bailie  Nicol  Jarvie  Inn,  the 
Clachan  of  Aberfoil,  and  hack  to  the  Trossachs 
to  dine  and  sleep.     Bill  at  Callender,         .  2  15 

Sept.  22. — Leave  the  Trossachs  at  9.30,  in 
carriage  for  Loch  Katrine,  taking  steamer  at 
11 ;  sail  down  the  lake,  passing  Ellen's  Isle  and 
the  "  Silver  Strand,1'  reaching  the  upper  end 
of  the  lake  at  12.30;  take  a  carriage,  and  drive 
five  miles  through  a  narrow  pass  to  In- 
versnaid,  where  lunch,  and  on  by  boat  at  2  ; 
down  Loch  Lomond,  reaching  Ballock  at  end 
of  lake  at  15  minutes  to  4;  hence  by  rail  to 
Glasgow  at  5.10.  (George  Hotel.)  .  Bill  at 
Trossachs,  £3  4s.  Fare  on  Loch  Katrine,  10s. 
Lomond,  10s., 4    4 

Sept.  23. — Sunday  to  the  Cathedral,  after 
which  to  the  University,  very  gloomy  ;  and  to 
the  park,  . 

Sept.  24. — About  the  town,  and  at  1.30  by 
rail  9  miles  to  Hamilton  Palace,  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton's,  grandson  of  Beckford,  the  author 
of"  Vathek;  "  the  Palace  most  stately  and  mag- 
nificent, the  front  being  a  specimen  of  an  en- 
riched Corinthian   order,   with    a    projecting 

pillared  portico,  after  the  style  of  the  Temple  

•  of  Jupiter  Stator  at  Rome,  2G4  feet  in  length,  149     4 


eaxavie.]  SCOTLAND.  [lociiiei. 

and  60  in  height.    In  the  mausoleum  a  constant     £    s. 

fire  day  and  night  is  kept  up.   The  avenue  here  1-10     4 
is  particularly  fine.     Taking  a  carriage,  drive  to 
Barncluith,   with  clipped  terrace  gardens  in 

the  Dutch  style,  planted  in  1070,  on  quaint 
stone  battlements,  also  Cadzow  Forest,  with 
splendid  oaks,  35  to  30  feet  in  circumference, 
and  having  some  GO  to  80  of  the  Scottish  wild- 
oxen  yet  left.  Back  to  Glasgow,  to  dine  and 
sleep.  Bill  at  Glasgow,  4  days,  £10  lis. ;  cab 
and  rail,  £1  4s., 12  15 

Sept.  25. — Leave  Glasgow  at  7  o'clock  a.  m., 
in  steamer,  reaching  Greenock  at  0,  where  the 
beauties  of  the  Clyde  begin  to  appear,  passing 
Dumbarton  and  its  castle,  Dunoon,  Rothesay, 
and  through  the  Kyle  of  Bute,  a  charming 
strait  through  the  islands,  and  filled  with  fish- 
ing-smacks, for  the  Loch  Fyne  herrings,  which 
are  very  celebrated.  Arrive  at  Ardescraig  at 
2,  where  change  to  a  boat  on  the  Crinan 
Canal;  after  a  beautiful  sail  of  0  miles,  again 
change  to  another  steamer,  where,  dining, 
pass  through  the  Dorishtmore,  or  Great  Gate 
between  the  chain  of  islands  Jura,  Isla,  Scarba, 
and  the  Mull,  Iona  and  Stafia  at  a  distance, 
reach  Oban,  beautifully  situated  in  a  circular 
bay,  at  7  r.  m.  Here,  if  wishing  to  visit  Staffa, 
sleep ;  otherwise  proceed  in  steamer,  reaching 
Banavie  at  10  p.  m.    Passage  to  Inverness,       .      G  10 

Sept.  2G. — Bise  early,  to  see  the  effecl  ofthe 

sun  on  Ben  Nevis,  4,428  feet  high,  immediately  

in  front  ofthe  inn;  walk  2  miles  to  Inverlochy  168     0 

19 


INVERNESS.]  SCOTLAXD.        [caledonian  hotel. 

Castle,  scene  of  the  battle  between  Argyll  and  £  s 
Montrose  in  1645,  Breakfast  at  7;  leave  in  1G8  9 
steamer  on  the  canal  at  8,  until  yon  reach 
Loch  Lochy,  10  miles,  passing  the  ancient  cas- 
tle of  the  Camerons,  also  the  burial-place  of 
the  Lochiels,  then  through  a  second  canal  to 
Loch  Oich,  3  miles  long,  passing  Achriacarry, 
belonging  to  the  Lochiel,  and  Invergarry  Cas- 
tle, as  well  as  the  monument  erected  by  Colo- 
nel McDonald,  of  Glengarry,  to  the  seven  heads 
of  his  seven  cousins,  which  he  cut  off  for 
murdering  the  two  sons  of  the  chief  of  the 
clan — McDonald  himself  being  the  original  of 
the  Fergus  Mclvor,  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's 
'•  AVaverley  ;  "  thence  by  another  canal  to  Loch 
Xess,  24  miles  long,  scenery  fine,  though  not 
so  grand  as  yesterday's.  To  Foyers,  where  an 
hour  to  see  the  falls,  very  picturesque,  by 
Urqnart  Castle,  a  splendid  ruin  in  a  magnificent 
position,  with  an  arrangement  for  pouring 
molten  lead  on  its  assailants,  and  a  charming 
old  Scotch  residence,  Aldowrie  House,  where 
Sir  James  Mackintosh  was  born  ;  reach  Inver- 
ness (the  Caledonian  Hotel)  at  5  p.  m.  Bill 
at  Banavie,  and  lunch, 113 

See  Macbeth's  Castle,  splendidly  situated  on 
an  eminence  overlooking  the  town  and  river. 

Sept.  27. — Leave  Inverness  at  10.18,  passing 
Culloden,  where  the  battle  was  fought ;  Caw- 
dor  Castle,  once  belonging  to   the  Thane  of 

Cawdor  of  Macbeth,  and  now  to  the  Earl  of . 

Cawdor,  Longmuir,  the  supposed  blasted  heath,  170     1 

20 


A.BERFELDIE.]  SCOTLAXD.      [bbeadalbane 

where  Macbeth  and  Banquo  met  the  weird  sis-  £  >. 
ters,  Birnam  wood,  etc.,  to  Blair  Castle,  where  170  1 
leave  the  train.     After  lunch  visit  the  grounds. 

The  walks  and  drives  of  this  estate  are  said  to 
extend  50  miles;  the  larch-plantations  cover 
11,000  acres,  and  number  of  trees  planted, 
27,000,000.  Glen  Tilt,  belonging  to  the  duke, 
alone  contains  100,000  acres,  and  10,000  head  of 
red  deer,  5,000  acres  being  preserved  for  grouse, 
20,000  for  deer,  and  30,000  for  deer-stalking. 
There  still  remain  8  or  10  of  the  original 
larch  from  which  all  Scotland,  England,  Ire- 
land, and  America,  were  planted,  one  of  the 
largest  measuring  1G£  feet  in  circumference, 
with  a  head  and  branches  as  spreading  as  a 
cedar  of  Lebanon.  Taking  carriage  at  the  inn. 
drive  or  walk  through  the  celebrated  pass  of 
Killiecrankie  to  Ballycluig,  passing  Grand  Tul- 
ly,  an  old  Scotch  castle,  said  to  be  the  original 
of  the  Tully  Veolan  of  "  Waverley,"  and  Glcn- 
quoich,  the  home  of  Fergus  Mclvor;  and  reach- 
ing Aberfeldie  (Breadalbane  Arms)  to  dine  and 
sleep.     Bill  at  Inverness,  £2  Is.;  to  Aberfeldi  . 

£4  10s., G  11 

Lunch  and  carriage  at  Blair,     .         .         .         .15 

Sept.  28. — Sunday  at  Aberfeldie. 

Sept.  29.— Walk  to  the  falls  of  Moness  and 
Birks  of  Aberfeldie,  a  beautiful  ravine  and  fall 
celebrated  by  Burns,  and  after  lunch  walk  to 
Castle    Menzies,    a   quaint   old   Scotch    castle 

with  pepper-pot  towers  on  the  angles  and  most  

extraordinary  beeches  and  planes,  forming  com-    1  77  17 

21 


EDDffBUBGH.]  SCOTLASD.  [hoyal  hotel. 

plete  arbors;  the  collection  of  new  evergreens     £    s. 
very  complete  here,        .         .        .         .        .  177  17 

Sept.  30. — In  morning,  drive  or  walk  to 
Grand  Tally  Castle,  the  residence  of  Sir  Wil- 
liam Stewart,  the  actual  original  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott's  Tolly  Yeolan,  with  secret  passages  and 
communications  through  the  walls.  After 
lunch  drive  5  miles  to  Taymouth  Castle,  the 
magnificent  residence  of  the  Marquis  of  Bread- 
albane,  a  splendid  castle  800  feet  front,  in  a 
park,  consisting  of  a  valley  between  two 
ranges  of  mountains,  five  miles  long  by  three 
broad,  with  superb  groups  and  masses  of  trees, 
one  beech  in  particular  measuring  43  feet  in 
circumference  four  feet  from  the  ground,  said 
to  be  the  largest  in  Scotland ;  the  estate 
being  120  miles  long  by  3  to  15  broad.  At  the 
end  of  the  park  is  Loch  Taymouth,  16  miles 
long.     Bill  and  expenses  at  Abergeldie,   .         .       5  12 

Oct.  1. — Leave  Abergeldie  in  train  at  8.15, 
reaching  Perth  at  11,  and  Edinburgh  via  Ster- 
ling at  1.  From  Perth  you  may  branch  off 
to  Aberdeen  and  Balmoral. 

Oct.  2. — Leave  Edinburgh  (Eoyal  Hotel),  at 
10  in  fly,  for  Dalkeith  Palace,  seat  of  the  Duke 
of  Buccleuch  ;  see  palace,  filled  with  splendid 
pictures  of  the  family.  The  grounds  are  very 
fine,  and  the  stables  especially  so,  containing 
some  90  horses  when  the  family  is  at  home, 
30  of  which  are  valuable  hunters,  costing  200 

to  300  guineas  each.     In  the  palace  is  the  state  . 

bed,  used  in  1033  by  Charles  L,  in  1822  by  183     9 

22 


EDINBURGH.]  SCOTLAND.  [BOTAL  II 

George  IV.,  and  in  1842  by  Queen  Victoria.  £ 
From  here  drive  to  Koslyn  Castle  and  Ros-  183  0 
lyn  Chapel,  the  first  containing  subterranean 
passages  in  the  rocks,  where  Bruce  lived  in 
concealment.  A  beautiful  walk  conducts  to 
the  chapel,  built  595  years  ago,  and  by  far  the 
most  exquisite  in  style  and  carvings  in  Scot- 
land, perhaps  in  England.  Back  by  5  o'clock. 
Cab,  £1 ;  fees,  5s. ;  lunch,  5s.,         .         .  1  10 

See  Botanic  Garden,  with  very  ^ne  col- 
lection of  plants. 

Oct.  5. — Leave  Edinburgh  at  10.15  by  North 
British  Railroad,  passing  near  the  sea  and  some 
splendid  views,  through  and  over  Newcastle 
to  Durham  by  2.20;  here  stop.  After  lunch  at 
the  Three  Tuns,  visit  the  Cathedral,  founded 
in  1072,  3G5  feet  long  and  92  feet  high,  a  mag- 
nificent building;  afterward  to  the  Castle,  a 
splendid  old  palace,  black  with  age,  said  to 
have  been  built  by  William  the  Conqueror. 
Bill  at  Edinburgh,  three  and  a  half  days,  £9  2s. ; 
fare  to  Durham,  £5  10s.,         .  .         .         .     14  12 

Oct.  6. — Leave  Durham  at  11,  reaching 
Ripon  at  2.20  (The  Unicorn),  where  taking  a 
carriage,  drive  to  Studley  Royal,  Earl  de  Grey 
and  Ripon,  containing  in  the  park  the  mag- 
nificent ruins  of  Fountain  Abbey.  Here  are 
some  Norway  spruce  130  feet  high.  The  Ab- 
bey originally  covered  12  acres,  and  much  is 
well  preserved,  though  founded  1,000  years 
ago.     Here  also  are  some  yews  1,400  years  old, 


199  11 


23 


EXGLAXD.  [the  toek  iiovse. 

27  feet  in  circumference,  which  sheltered  the  £  s. 
monks  when  building  the  abbey.  Bill  at  Dnr-  199  11 
ham,  £1 10s. ;  fare  to  Ripon,  £2  10s.,      .        .40 

Oct.  7. — Walk  to  Cathedral,  being  restored, 
hut  a  fine  building,  320  feet  long.  Leave  Ripon 
by  train  at  10.30,  reach  Harrogate  at  11.30,  and 
York  at  1.30  (The  York  House).  See  the 
Cathedral,  by  many  thought  the  finest  in  Eng- 
land, 500  odd  feet  long,  by  nearly  100  feet 
high,  founded  in  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth 
centuries;  the  great  east  window,  80  feet 
high,  was  painted  by  a  man  who  under- 
took to  do  it  in  three  years,  at  six  shillings 
a  week.  Bill  at  Eipon,  £2  13s. ;  fare  to  York, 
£1  10s., 4     3 

Oct.  8. — At  York,  seeing  the  Cathedral  and 
old  houses  ;  at  2  drive  to  Hesslington  Hall,  an 
old  Elizabethan  mansion  of  red  brick,  with 
old  clipped  yew-trees,  200  years  old.  Bill  at 
York,  4  days,  £10  2s. ;  fare  to  Scarborough, 
£1  5s., .     11     7 

Oct.  9. — Leave  York  at  9.30  in  train,  send- 
ing luggage  to  Scarborough ;  stop  at  Castle 
Howard  station,  take  'bus  to  the  Castle — Earl 
of  Carlisle.  The  house  very  fine,  built  by  Sir 
John  Yanbrugh,  and  the  park,  with  four  splen- 
did avenues  meeting  in  the  centre,  planted  by 
the  third  earl,  150  years  ago.  The  pictures 
and  statues,  both  within  and  without  the 
house,    are    superb.      On    by    a    later    train 

to   Scarborough    (The   Crown),   to    dine   and — 

Bleep 219    1 

24 


Scarborough.]  ENGLAND.  [the  crown. 

Oct.  10. — Walk  on  the  esplanade  and  about      £    & 
the  town.  219     1 

Oct.  1J. — Sunday. 

Oct.  12.— Bill  at  Scarborough,  0  days,  .210 

Oct.  13. — Leave  Scarborough  at  2.30,  reach- 
ing Leeds  at  5.30  (Bull  and  Mouth,  very  bad) ; 
see  the  town  (Station  Hotel  best),    . 

Oct,  14.— By  train  at  9.30, 17  miles  to  Keigh- 
ley,  then  4  miles  by  carriage  to  Haworth,  a 
straggling  village  with  one  long  street,  to  the 
Parsonage   House,    where  lived  the  Brontes, 
Charlotte,    Anne,    and  Maria,    authoresses   of 
"Jane  Eyre,"  "Villette,"  "Wuthering  Heights," 
etc.  ;  hero   old   Mr.   Bronte,  the  incumbent  of 
Haworth,  lived  41  years  on  £150  a  year,  and 
died  at  85,  having  outlived  all  his   children. 
Expenses,         ...  ....       1     5 

Back  to  Leeds  to  dine  and  sleep. 

Oct.  15. — Leave  Leeds  at  10.30  in  train, 
reaching  Rotherham  -at  11.30;  taking  a  fly, 
drive  4  miles  to  Wentworth  House,  Earl  Fitz- 
william,  the  most  magnificent  house,  perhaps, 
in  England,  900  feet  front ;  the  state  apart- 
ments very  grand,  the  dining-room  very  superb, 
being  50  feet  square,  the  ground  hull  50  by  75, 
and  30  feet  high;  all  the  three  drawing-rooms 
very  ornate  and  superbly  gilded,  with  charm- 
ing pictures.  See  the  chamber  and  dressing- 
room  of  Lord  Strafford,  who  was  beheaded. 
The  stables  even  liner  than  Knowsley  (Earl  of 

Derby's) ;  the  gardens  are  wry  stately.     From  

Rotherham  to  Sheffield,  5  miles  in  fly,  then  by  211  12 
3  35 


woKKsor.]  ENGLAND.  [liox  nnr. 

train,   half  an  Lour   to  "Worksop  (The  Lion).      £    8. 

Bill  at  Leeds,   £3   12s.;    fly  to   Wentworth,  241  12 

4     G 

Oct.  1G. — Drivein  carriage  4  miles,  to  Clum- 
ber Park,  scat  of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  beau- 
tifully situated  with  its  Italian  gardens,  ex- 
tending over  a  lake  filled  with  wild-fowl.  A 
mile  or  so  farther  to  Thoresby,  Earl  Manvers, 
with  a  fine  effect  of  avenue,  passing  through 
a  part  of  the  park  or  chase  called  Bithagne  and 
Birkland,  being  the  oldest  portions  of  Sher- 
wood Forest;  huge  oaks,  1,000  years  old,  aver- 
aging 30  to  40  feet  in  circumference,  with  a 
thick  undergrowth  of  fern,  through  and  amidst 
which  are  numerous  deer ;  nothing  in  Eng- 
land is  perhaps  grander  or  wilder  than  this 
forest  of  nearly  15,000  acres,  with  innumerable 
sylvan  glades.  Passing  through  Clipstone  Park, 
where  King  John  had  a  palace,  lunch  at  the  lit- 
tle inn  famous  for  itshome-brewe'd.  Keturning 
from  here,  drive  through  a  part  of  "Welbeck  Park, 
Duke  of  Portland,  seeing  the  abbey  at  a  dis- 
tance, and  the  ornamental  water,  unfinished  in 
1868,  of  over  200  acres.  The  park  contains 
2,083  acres,  and  some  remarkable  oaks,  of 
which  the  most  celebrated  are  the  Two  Porters, 
one  being  100  feet  high  and  40  in  circum- 
ference, the  other  90  by  36  ;  the  Seven  Sisters, 
88  feet  high,  circumference  80  feet.  The  Green- 
dale  oak  in  1724  had  an  opening  large  enough 

to  allow  a  carriage  or  three  horsemen  abreast  

to  pass  through,  the  circumference  above  the  245  18 

26 


tvokksop.]  JEXGLAND.  [the  lion. 

arch,  35  feet  3  inches,  height  of  the  arch,  10  £  s. 
feet,  width  G  feet  3  inches,  supposed  to  he  245  18 
1,000  years  old.  Some  oaks  which  have  hcen 
cut  down  were  found  to  he  1,200  years  old. 
From  Welbeck  to  Worksop  Manor,  Lord  Fo- 
ley's, and  hack  to  Worksop  to  dine  and  sleep. 
Bill  at  Worksop,  £5  15s. ;  fare  to  Lincoln, 
£1  4s.  ;  to  Boston,  £1  4s. ;  cah,  10s.,       .         .       8  13 

Oct.  17.— Leave  Worksop  hy  train  at  9.20, 
reaching  Lincoln  at  11  ;  take  cah  and  drive  to 
the  Cathedral,  finer  even  than  York,  tower 
266  feet  high,  length  only  six  inches  less  than 
York.  Leave  Lincoln  at  3.30,  reaching  Boston 
(The  Peacock),  at  5, 

Oct.  19. — Ascend  the  tower  of  St.  Botolph's, 
with  a  magnificent  view  of  Lincolnshire.  Leave 
Boston  hy  train  at  10,  reach  Grantham  at  11.30 ; 
taking  a  fly,  drive  8  miles  to  Belvoir  Castle, 
the  Duke  of  Rutland's  superb  estate,  with 
magnificent  rooms  and  pictures;  from  here  at 
4,  hy  train  to  Nottingham,  17  miles,  George 
IV.  inn.  Bill  at  Boston,  £4  10s.;  fare  to 
Grantham.  £1  Is. ;  fly  to  Belvoir  Castle  and 
hack,  £1  10s.  ;  to  Nottingham,  10s.,         .  .7  11 

Oct.  20. — Leave  Nottingham  at  10,  in  car- 
riage with  post-horses,  11  miles  to  Newstead 
Ahbey  (Lord  Byron's),  passing  Westwell  Hall, 
Duke  of  St.  Albans.  Newstead,  very  interest- 
ing, on  a  lake,  the  older  parts  of  the  abbey 
beautifully  preserved,  and  the  Italian  gardens 

exquisite.     The  monument  (tomb)  to  the  mem 

ory  of  the  poet's  dog   Boatswain  being  very  202     2 

27 


Nottingham.]  ENGLAND.  [george  iv. 

conspicuous;  from  Newstead  3  miles  farther  £  s. 
to  Aunesley  Hall,  where  Mary  Chaworth,  By-  202  2 
ron's  first  love  lived;  a  beautiful  park  of  800 
acres,  an  old  Elizabethan  house,  with  heavy 
mullioned  windows  and  court-yards;  a  most 
charming  Italian  garden,  heavy  stone  balus- 
trades and  pilasters,  with  large  stone  balls  on 
top  ;  an  old  church  immediately  adjoining  and 
in  connection  with  the  house,  900  years  old. 
Mary  Chaworth's  flower-garden  exists  just  as 
it  did  in  her  day,  and  a  little  oaken  door  in  the 
garden  wall  still  shows  the  marks  of  Lord  By- 
ron's balls,  who  used  it  as  a  target.  From  here 
2  miles  to  Ilucknall,  where,  in  the  old  church, 
built  in  1100,  is  a  mural  tablet,  on  which  is 
inscribed,  "  George  Gordon,  Lord  Byron  of 
Rochdale,  Author  of  Childe  Harold's  Pilgrim- 
age, born  in  London,  1788,  died  at  Missolonghi, 
1824."  From  here  to  Wollaton  Hall,  Lord 
Middleton's,  a  superb,  ornate,  though  gloomy 
house,  with  a  splendid  avenue  and  numerous 
deer.  Back  to  Nottingham  by  5,  where,  taking 
the  train,  reach  Derby  (The  Royal)  at  6.  Bill 
at  Nottingham,  £2  7s. ;  carriage  to  Newstead, 
£1  15s.;  lunch,  6s.;  fare  to  Derby,  10s.,   .  4  18 

Oct.  21.— Leave  Derby  by  train  at  10.30,  for 
Borrowwash,  5  miles ;  walk  or  drive  one  mile 
to  Elvaston  Castle,  Earl  of  Harrington,  the 
most  wonderful  place  in  England,  and  probably 
in  the  world,  for  its  topiary  work,  as  well  as 

collection  of  evergreens.     Here  are  picea  pins ■ 

apos  30  feet  high,  abies  menzesii  and  douglasi  207  00 

2S 


ieebt.]  ENGLAND.  [the  koyal. 

35  feet,  hemlock-,  much  finer  than  these  in  £  s. 
America.  The  grand  cut  ranee  through  the  2G7  00 
golden  gates,  opened  only  on  state  occasions, 
is  bordered  on  one  side  by  a  variegated  holly- 
hedge,  with  occasional  standards  of  Irish  yew, 
and  on  the  other  side  (being  divided  by  great 
masses  of  golden  yew  in  a  setting  of  common 
yew)  is  a  line  of  golden  and  Irish  yews,  backed 
by  a  row  of  pinns  nobilis ;  at  end  of  each  grass 
avenue  is  a  superb  golden  yew,  20  feet  high 
and  as  broad  ;  from  this  you  pass  into  three 
distinct  and  separate  gardens,  each  more  ex- 
traordinary than  the  other  in  size,  and  the 
figures  of  the  topiary  work.  Entire  cottages 
cut  out  of  yew,  yew-arbors  20  feet  high,  having 
a  base  30  feet  square,  with  a  succession  of 
steps ;  the  top  surmounted  by  two  peacocks, 
G  feet  long  and  3  or  more  feet  high,  the  head 
and  figures  closely  cut,  while  the  tails,  in  gold- 
en yew,  are  allowed  to  remain  undipped  and 
feathery.  One  very  extraordinary  house  in 
yew,  with  several  gables,  is  surmounted  by 
two  birds,  one  in  a  nest,  the  other  attempting 
to  fly  out,  each  larger  than  the  largest  eagle. 
There  are  also  perfectly  green  cones  of  English 
yew,  40  feet  high,  with  golden  heads"  (caps  of 
golden  yew),  these  standing  in  a  double  base 
or  platform  of  English  yew,  25  to  30  feet 
square,  and  12  to  15  inches  high,  perfectly 
smooth  and  flat,  as  if  made  of  slate;  there  are    , 

also  long  alleys  of  smooth  turf  bordered   by 

alternate  Irish  and  golden  yews,  the  latter  tied  267  00 

29 


v.]  EXGLAXD.  [the  royal. 

i  los  ■  :  i  by  wires  to  keep  them  pyramidal,  and  £  s. 
surmounted  by  golden  crowns;  other  avenues  207  00 
of  Irish  junipers  and  golden  cypress.     In  ono 

of  the  gardens  (each  divided  from  the  other  by 
clipped  yew-hedges  20  feet  high,  with  occa- 
sional arches)  are  groups  of  Chinese  barrels, 
cut  out  of  juniper;  in  this  garden  a  fine  effect 
is  produced  by  a  large  circle,  100  feet  in  diam- 
eter, made  of  large  triangles  of  alternating 
golden  and  green  yews,  dovetailing  into  each 
other,  and  kept  down  (G  inches  high)  so  as  to 
produce  a  brilliant  parterre.  One  of  the  most 
effective  things,  however,  is  the  Vandyck  "Walk, 
a  covered,  irregular  walk  through  an  arbor, 
thickened  at  the  bottom  by  box,  and  close  over 
the  head,  the  light  being  admitted  by  occa- 
sional loop-holes.  The  ornamental  water  is 
also  most  charmingly  managed  ;  a  lake  of  ap- 
parently endless  extent,  with  the  margin  beau- 
tifully broken  by  occasional  borders  of  smooth 
lawn,  backed  by  artificial  rock-work,  and  plant- 
ed with  golden  and  English  yews,  deodars,  and 
araucarias ;  then  again  points  of  rough,  ragged 
rock  to  the  water's  edge,  in  one  case  closely 
resembling  a  ruined  castle,  covered  with  moss 
and  ivy,  and  the  effect  increased  by  broken 
mullioned  window-bars  set  against  one  of  the 
openings.  At  one  end  of  the  lake,  after  pass- 
ing through  a  dense  yew-walk,  you  come  sud- 
denly upon  a  large,  round  hole,  8  feet  in  diam- 
eter, in  the  rockery;  through  this  you  see  the 

whole  extent  of  the  lake,  with  all  its  different  207  00 

30 


derby.]  EXGLAXD.  [the  royal. 

points  and  islands,  the  softer  parts  in  lawn  with  £  a. 
an  occasional  weeping"  birch  or  willow;  the  207  00 
rougher  with  here  and  there  a  cedar  of  Lebanon 
or  araucaria  amidst  the  crags.  Another  beau- 
tiful effect  is  produced  by  a  sudden  vista  through 
a  cavern  across  the  lake,  to  another  vista 
through  a  cave,  in  which  stands  a  mossy  stone 
cross  wreathed  in  silver  ivy,  duplicated  in  the 
lake  by  its  reflection;  and  beyond  this  the 
vista  is  continued  three  miles  through  a  dark 
fir-wood,  until  it  terminates  in  Spondon  Church 
spire.  Back  to  Derby  to  dine  and  sleep,  seeing 
also  the  Arboretum.  Bill  at  Derby,  £9  17s.; 
to  Matlock,  £1  10s., 11     7 

Oct.  23. — Leave  Derby  by  train  at  9,  reach- 
ing Matlock  Bath  at  9.40  (Temple  Inn).  Walk 
through  the  Cumberland  Cavern,  the  largest 
in  Derbyshire;  after  lunch,  drive  to  Willersley 
Hall,  the  house  of  the  original  Arkwright ;  see 
the  mill  where  the  spinning-jenny  was  invented 
and  first  used;  thence  to  Lea  Hurst,  the  resi- 
dence of  Florence  Nightingale,  a  pretty  stone 
cottage  in  an  estate  of  5,000  acres.  On  still 
farther  to  "Wing-field  Manor-house,  a  grand  old 
ruin  of  the  time  of  Henry  IV.  Here  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots  was  a  prisoner  nine  years. 
Back  to  Matlock  to  dinner. 

Oct.  23  and  24.— At  Matlock. 

Oct.  25. — Leave  the  hotel  at  9.30  in  carrii 
reaching  Haddon  Hall,  the  Duke  of  Rutland's, 

8  miles,  at  11,  one  of  the  most  interesting  old — 

places  in  Eu  'land,  built  in  the  eleventh  century.   278     7 

31 


MATLOCK.]  •  ENGLAND.  [TKMPLE  nAr. 

and  tin.'  original  of  Mrs.  Radoliffe's  "Mysteries  £  s. 
of  ddolpho."  From  here  byBakewell,  famous  278  7 
for  its  sheep;  to  Ohatsworth,  2  miles,  lunching 
at  the  Edensor  Inn  at  the  gate,  after  which  see 
the  house,  gardens,  great  conservatory,  etc., 
occupying  about  two  hours,  the  wood-carvings 
in  the  house,  by  Gibbons,  being  very  cele- 
brated. Thirty  men  are  kept  in  the  ornamental 
grounds  and  25  in  the  kitchen  garden.  Back 
to  Matlock  to  dine.  Lunch,  13s.;  fees  and 
tolls,  8s., 11 

Oct.  20.— Leave  Matlock  by  train  at  9.45, 
reaching  Buxton  at  10.15;  taking  carriage, 
drive  14  miles  through  the  bleakest  and  high- 
est moors  to  Macclesfield  to  lunch,  leaving 
Macclesfield  at  3.30  in  train,  reach  Congleton 
(Lion  and  Swan,  very  quaint)  at  4 ;  see  the 
town.  Bill  at  Matlock,  and  carriage  to  Chats- 
worth,       8     8 

Fare  to  Buxton,  17s. ;  carriage  to  Macclesfield 
and  lunch,         . 2  16 

The  Buxton  moors,  belonging  to  the  Duke  of 
Devonshire,  are  rented  for  shooting,  at  £12 
the  fortnight  for  each  gun.  Twelve  gentlemen 
hire  these  moors  for  two  weeks  at  this  rate, 
and  generally  average  10  to  12  brace  of  grouse 
a  gun  each  day.  Each  gun,  therefore,  pays  a 
guinea  a  day,  and  shoots,  or  is  supposed  to,  10 
pair  of  grouse. 

Oct.  27. — Leave  Congleton  by  train  at  10, 

reaching  North  Rode  at  10.20,  waiting  three 

quarters  of  an  hour  and  taking  another  train,  290  12 

32 


COXGLETOX.]  ENGLAND.  [lion  axd  swan. 

reach  Alton  Towers,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury's,  at  £  8. 
11£,  the  most  ornate  and  Italian-looking  place  290  12 
in  England,  a  succession  of  beautiful  terraces, 
with  vases,  statues,  fountains,  and  flowers,  su- 
perb trees  both  in  variety  and  growth  ;  the 
cedars  of  Lebanon  on  the  slopes  down  to  the 
lake  are  especially  fine.     Fare  to  and  fro,         .       1   15 

Oct.  28. — Leave  Congleton  in  a  carriage  at 
9.30,  for  Biddulph  Grange,  Mr.  Bateman's,  4 
miles,  the  most  extraordinary  place  in  England 
of  its  size;  a  "Wellingtonia  avenue,  a  beautiful 
pinetum,  a  rock  ;  a  Dutch,  an  Italian,  and  a 
stump  garden — each  concealed  from  the  other ; 
a  wonderful  Chinese  garden,  which  you  enter 
through  a  cave  over  a  Chinese  bridge,  the  garden 
being  planted  with  Chinese  plants  and  trees, 
and  adorned  with  pagodas,  monsters,  idols,  and 
other  features  of  that  country.  There  are  23 
acres  only  of  ornamental  ground,  and  15  men 
allowed  to  keep  them  up.  Back  to  Congleton 
to  lunch,  after  which,  leaving  Congleton  at 
4.30,  reach  Stoke-on-Trent  at  4.50.  Bill  at 
Congleton,  £3  lis. ;  fare  to  Stoke,  8s.,     .        .3  19 

Oct.  29. — Drive  3  miles  from  Stoke  to  Tren- 
tham,  Duke  of  Sutherland's,  by  many  esteemed 
the  finest  place  in  England,  a  beautiful  park 
with  majestic  trees  and  fine  hanging  woods  : 
the  most  exquisite  pleasure-grounds,  with  grand 
masses  of  rhododendrons,  azalias,  mahonii 
gaultherias,    etc,    with  large,  open   glades   of 

grass,  down  to  a  beautiful  lake,  one  mile  long; ■ 

a  succession  of  majestic  terrace-gardens,  with  29 

33 


BTOKB-ON-TBKNT.]  ENGLAND.  [STATION  HOTEL. 

Italian  balustrades  to  the  water's  edge;  nothing     £    5. 

can  be  finer  than  the  training  of  the  pear-trees,  296    6 

being  in  cup-form,  as  well  as  over  umbrella 

trellises;    the  grape  and  peaeli  houses,   only 

4  feet  wide  by,  12  high,  the  front  glass  being 

as  high  as  the  hack  wall,  thus  having  two  sets 

of  plants.     Back  to  Stoke  to  lunch  ;  fly,  10s. ; 

bill   at   Stoke   and   fare   to   Stafford,  £3   10s.       4     0 

Leaving  Stoke  at  3,  reach  Stafford  (The  Tine), 

to  dine  and  sleep. 

Oct.  31. — Taking  a  carriage,  drive  to  Tixall 
Hall.  Sir  T.  Clifford's ;  Shugborough,  Earl  of 
Lichfield's;  Ingestrie,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury's,  and 
Sandon,  Earl  of  Harrowby's,  16  miles,  fare,    .  14 

Of  these  places,  Ingestrie  was  the  finest 
house  about  the  period  of  the  Tudors,  with  a 
quantity  of  windows  in  bays  and  bows;  the 
park  is  very  fine,  being  in  large,  umbrageous 
masses,  a  superb  beech  avenue,  200  years  old 
and  a  mile  long,  some  fine  cedars  of  Lebanon 
and  Douglas  firs,  in  the  ornamental  grounds. 
The  next  best  place  being  Sandon,  where  the 
park  is  very  undulating,  and  beautifully 
clothed  in  splendid  trees,  especially  beech. 
Back  to  Stafford  to  dinner.     Fly,     .        .        .  14 

Nov.  1. — Leave  Stafford  by  rail  at  11.15, 
reaching  Rugely  at  11.45.  Lunch  at  the  Talbot 
Arms,  where  the  celebrated  poisoning  of  Cook 
and  others  took  place  by  Palmer,  in  1855, 
Palmer's  house  being  immediately   opposite. 

After  lunch,   drive  in   fly  to  Blithfield,  Lord  — 

>t's  splendid  old  park  and  house,  said — a  301  14 
34 


STAFFORD.]  EXGLAXD.  [the  vink. 

portion  of  it — to  have  been  built  in  the  time  of  £  s. 
William  the Conqueror.  From  here,  4  miles  to  301  14 
Bishton,  Lady  Olivia  Sparrow's,  Wolseley  Hall, 
Sir  Charles  Wolseley's  which  has  been  in  the 
same  family  TOO  years,  containing  a  fine  oaken 
drawing-room  and  carved  staircase;  from  here 
to  Hagley  Hall,  Lady  de  la  Zouch's,  a  picturesque 
old  house.  Fare  to  and  from  Stafford  and  fly, 
£1  Is. ;  lunch  at  Rugely?  15s.  Back  to  Staf- 
ford to  dine, 116 

Nov.  2. — Leave  Stafford  at  11.15,  reaching 
Lichfield  at  12,  remaining  two  hours  for  the 
cathedral,  one  of  the  most  ornate  in  England, 
the  pulpit  and  screen  being  of  elaborately  orna- 
mented and  twisted  brass,  with  precious  stones ; 
the  altar,  most  exquisite  in  alabaster,  inlaid 
with  precious  stones  ;  the  monuments — Chan- 
trey's  cherubs  and  Hodson's  tomb  —  very 
superb.  Leaving  Lichfield  by  train  at  3,  reach 
Rugby  (George  IV.)  at  4,  seeing  the  school  and 
play-ground,  famous  in  "Tom  Brown,"  close  by 
the  hotel.  Lunch  at  Lichfield,  9s. ;  fare  to 
Lichfield  10s. ;  Lichfield  to  Rugby,  £1  12s.,       .       2  11 

Nov.  3. — Rugby  school  until  12,  when  by 
rail  to  Leamington  (The  Clarendon),  in  one 
hour  ;  lunch  and  see  the  town.  Bill  at  Rugby, 
£1  12s. ;  Rugby  to  Leamington,  12s.,       .         .2-4 

Nov.  4. — Leave  Leamington  by  rail  for  "War- 
wick, 2  miles;  see  Warwick  Castle  after  lunch 
at  the  inn,  drive  in  fly  to  Guy's  Cliff,  with  a 

beautiful  avenue  of  Scotch  firs,  400  years  old,  

best  seen   from   the  public   road ;    also,  some  308     5 


ENGLAND.  [clarestdox. 

carious  caves  or  recesses  in  the  rocks;  then  4     £    s. 
miles  farther  to  Kenilworth  Castle.    Back  to  308    5 
by  fly  to  dine.    Lunch  and  car- 

1    0 

.  5. — Leave  Leamington  in  carriage  at  10, 
for  Stratford,  stopping  at  Warwick  to  see  the 
Leicester  Hospital,  founded  by  Robert  Dudley, 
Earl  of  Leicester,  fur  a  master  and  12  old 
soldiers,  they  having  each  a  parlor  and  bed- 
room, and  £80  a  year ;  the  building-  and  fur- 
niture are  completely  of  the  period  of  tins 
foundation,  1573.  See  the  identical  chair  for 
visitors  used  by  James  T.  when  he  was  enter- 
tained here.  Drive  8  miles  farther  to  Stratford- 
on-Avon,  seeing-  Shakespeare's  house  and  the 
church  where  he  was  buried.  Back  to  Leam- 
ington by  Charlecote,  still  owned  by  the 
Lucy  family,  where  Shakespeare  was  tried  for 
ling  deer;  a  fine  old  hail  and  grand  park. 
Expenses,  carriage  and  lunch,  .         .         .20 

Xoc.  6-10. — At  Leamington;  excurse  to 
Coventry  and  back,  and  to  Stoneleigli  Abbey, 
Lord  Leigh's,  a  fine  combination  of  an  ancient 
and  stately  modern  house,  a  beautiful  Italian 
garden,  sloping  to  the  river  with  steps  to  the 
water  ;  the  park  remarkable  for  its  venerable 
trees,  nearly  as  fine  as  Sherwood  Forest ;  near 
the  greenhouse  a  very  fine  Taxodium  semper- 
virens,  also  fine  aravcarias  and  Cryptomeria 
Japonica,  30  feet  high, 

Nov.  11. — Leave  Leamington  by  train  at  10. 

reaching  Worcester,  with  three  changes,  at  1.50  311    5 

36 


HEREFORD.]  EXGLAXD.  [green  dragon. 

(Star  and  Garter  Inn) ;   after  lunch  see  catlie-      £    s. 
dral,  splendidly  restored;  here  are  the  tombs  311     5 
of  King  John  and  Prince  Arthur.     Hard  by  the 
town  the  battle  of  Worcester  was  fought.  Bill  at 
Leamington,  6  days,  £15 ;  fare  to  Worcester,  .     10  15 

Nov.  12. — Leave  Worcester  at  11.25  in  train, 
reaching  Malvern  at  11.50.  Taking  fly,  drive 
through  the  town  to  Malvern  Wych,  seeing  a 
beautiful  view,  through  a  cutting  in  the  rocks, 
of  the  two  counties — Herefordshire  on  one  side 
and  Worcestershire  on  the  other — from  a 
height  of  1,500  feet.  From  here  to  Madresfield 
Court,  Earl  of  Beauchamp's,  an  interesting  old 
place;  the  house  with  three  gables,  covered 
with  ivy,  surrounded  by  a  moat  filled  with 
water ;  the  intervening  lawn  beautifully  planted 
with  choice  evergreens.  Taking  train  at  3, 
reach  Hereford  (The  Green  Dragon),  to  dine 
and  sleep.  Bill  at  Worcester,  £2  16s. ;  fare  to 
Hereford,  £1  8s., 4    4 

See  cathedral,  with  fine  screen. 

Nov.  13. — Leave  Hereford  at  9.40,  passing 
Holm  Lacey — a  fine  old  Elizabethan  mansion, 
where  Pope  wrote  his  "  Man  of  Ross " — to 
Ross ;  where,  taking  a  fly,  drive  to  the  church, 
where  the  "Man  of  Ross"  is  buried;  then  to 
the  ruins  of  Goodrich  Castle,  built  in  600 — 
before  the  conquest.  Afterward  to  Goodrieh 
Court,  Sir  J.  P.  Meyrick's,  best  imitation  of 
an  ancient  castle  in  England,  with  furniture  to 

correspond,  and  a  splendid  collection  of  armor.  

From  here  at  3,  by  train,  to  Cheltenham  (the  302     4 
4  37 


CHELTENHAM.]  ENGLAND.  [the  tlough. 

Plough),  via  Gloucester,  at  4.    The  view  from     £    s. 
the  inn  at   Ross  very  fine.    Bill  at  Hereford,  832    4 
£1    10s. ;    fare   to   Cheltenham,    15s. ;    fly  to 
Goodrich  and  back,  £1  2s.,       .        .        .        .37 

Nov.  14-. — Leave  Cheltenham  by  train  at  11 
for  Gloucester,  where,  taking  a  fly,  drive  to 
Highnam  Court,  Mr.  Gambier  Parry's,  cele- 
brated for  its  pinetum,  perhaps  the  most  com- 
plete in  England,  not  excepting  Dropmore. 
See  Mr.  Parry's  church,  built  and  adorned  at 
his  own  expense,  at  a  cost  of  £30,000,  much  of 
the  painting  and  emblazoning  being  his  own 
work.  Back  to  Worcester,  to  the  cathedral, 
built  in  1047,  containing  the  monuments  of 
Edward  II.  and  Robert  of  Normandy,  son  of 
the  Conqueror ;  the  east  window,  87  feet  high  ; 
the  vault  of  the  choir  and  the  cloisters  are  con- 
sidered the  most  beautiful  in  England.  Return 
to  Cheltenham  at  4.40.     Expense,    .         .         .12 

Nov.  15. — At  12,  drive  2  miles,  to  South  am 
House,  Earl  of  Ellenborough's,  a  charming, 
quaint  old  Elizabethan  house,  built  in  1G28. 
On  the  summer-house  is  a  glass  star  instead  of 
a  vane,  which,  in  the  sun,  produces  a  very 
pretty  effect.     Eest  of  the  day,  see  the  town. 

Nov.  16. — Leave  Cheltenham  at  11,  reaching 
Bristol  at  12.15,  and,  after  half  an  hour's  delay, 
Bath  at  1.30  (York  House).  See  the  town,  the 
park  gardens,  crescent,  etc.  Bill  at  Chelten- 
ham, £12  lGs. ;  fare  to  Bath,  £2  3s.,        .         .     14  19 

Nov.    12. — Bath.      Abbey    Church,    pump 

room,  etc.  351  12 

38 


batii.]  ESGLAXD.  [tokk  house. 

Nov.  13. — Leave  Bath  at  10,  in  carriage,  for      £    s. 
Badminton,  Duke  of  Beaufort's,   16  miles;  a  851  13 
splendid  house  and  park,  with  avenue  3  mil 
long,  from  Worcester  Lodge.     The  duke,  who 
is  the  present  Nimrod  of  England,  hunts  every 
day,  rain  or  shine,  through  the  season,  keeping 
40  horses  for  this  purpose.     Back  to  Bath,  by 
Codrington  Hall,  a  fine  old  place.  In  the  church 
at  Badminton  Lord  Raglan,  the  English  Com- 
mander-in-Chief  in    the    Crimea,    is    buried. 
Here,  also,  is  the  monument  to  the  Marchion- 
ess of  Worcester,  with  its  famous  inscription, 
considered  the  most  complimentary  ever  com- 
posed : 

"  Underneath  this  stone  doth  lie 
As  much  virtue  as  could  die  ; 
Which,  when  alive,  did  vigor  give 
To  as  much  beauty  as  could  live." 

Carriage  to  Badminton  and  expenses,        .  2  17 

JSTov.  14. — Leave  Bath  at  10.00,  by  train,  for 
Chippingham;  then,  by  fly,  5  miles  to  Bowo<> ■!. 
Marquis  of  Lansdowne's,  a  beantiful  Italian 
palace  and  superb  place,  especially  rich  in  ter- 
raced gardens;  a  lake  of  30  acres,  with  a  fine 
pinetuin,  containing  a  Douglas  fir  70-odd  feet 
high.  Five  miles  beyond  Bowood  is  Lacock 
Abbey,  a  wonderful  old  place,  said  to  be  the 
1  >est-preserved  abbey  "in  residence  "  in  England, 
founded  in  1229,  the  cloisters,  kitchen,  and  nuns1 

kitchen  being  very  complete.     Driving  3  miles  — 

farther,  you   come  to  Oorsham  IIo  54    !) 

39 


exeti:?..]  ENGLAND.  [the  rotal. 

Methuen's,  a  splendid  house,  with  extraordinary     £    *. 
yew-hedges,  30  feet  thick  and  as  high;   the  354    9 
park  planted  by  the  celebrated  Brown  and  the 
lake  made  by  Repton.     Back  to  Chippingham, 
then  by  rail  to  Bath  to  dinner.     Expenses,       .       1     7 

Near  Bath  is  Prior  Bark,  where  Fielding 
wrote  "  Tom  Jones." 

Nov.  15. — Leave  Bath  in  train  at  1.25,  reach- 
ing Exeter  (Royal)  at  2.25.  Walk  about  the 
town,  seeing  the  old  houses  and  the  cathedral. 
Bill  at  Bath,  £15;  Bath  to  Exeter,  £4  4s.,        .     19     4 

Nov.  10. — Take  a  fly  at  10,  drive  one  mile  to 
the  celebrated  nursery  of  Veitch  &  Co.,  seeing 
the  famous  pinetum-walk,  with  Douglas  firs, 
cedars  of  Lebanon,  Cryptomerias^  Taxodium, 
etc.,  30  feet  high ;  also  splendid  cypress, 
Goviana,  and  Macrocarpa.  Thence  a  mile  in 
another  direction,  to  the  nursery  and  pinetum 
of  Lucomb,  Pince  &  Co.,  seeing,  near  the 
entrance,  the  celebrated  Lucomb  (evergreen) 
oak,  the  largest  and  finest  in  England,  also  the 
far-famed  conifer  rock-walk,  of  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  between  high,  overhanging,  artificial 
rocks,  filled  with  every  conceivable  and  known 
variety  of  evergreens,  rock-plants,  ferns,  pam- 
pas-grass, Arundos,  etc.  Here  is  the  first 
Wellingtonia  planted  in  England,  also  the 
first  Thuja  gigantea,  the  one  25x30  feet, 
and  the  other  about  12  feet  high.  This 
collection  of  evergreens  is,  perhaps,  the  finest 

in    England.     Near    Exeter    is    Bicton,    the  

celebrated    place    of   Lady    Rolle.       Leaving  375     0 

40 


EXETER.]  ENGLAND.  [the  royal. 

Exeter  by  train  at  2.30,  reach  Torquay  (the  £  s. 
Royal)  at  3.10.  Bill  at  Exeter,  £2  10s.;  fare  37.")  0 
to  Torquay,  £1  Cs., 3  Hi 

Nov.  17. — Torquay  for  three  weeks ;  one 
parlor  and  three  fine  chambers,  with  board  for 
four  persons  in  private  apartment,  £10  5s.  a 
week— LSGO-'GT. 

Nov.  18. — At  10,  taking  a  fly,  drive  to  Babbi- 
comb,  Anstey's  Cove,  Bishopthorp,  "Watcomb, 
the  seat  of  the  late  Mr.  Brunei;  the  grounds 
beautifully  laid  out  on  a  hill-side,  and  the  val- 
ley exquisitely  arranged  with  the  most  orna- 
mental and  rare  trees  and  shrubs,  even  the 
cedar  of  Goa  and  Yucca  alc&folia  standing  out 
all  winter. 

Nov.  19. — After  lunch,  drive  to  Berry  Pome- 
roy  Castle,  a  fine  old  ruin,  charmingly  draped 
in  ivy. 

Nov.  20. — Leave  Torquay  in  train  at  10.15 
for  Dawlish,  12  miles;  then,  by  fly,  2  miles  to 
Luscomb,  beautiful  house  and  grounds  ;  then  -1 
miles  to  Mamhead.  To  an  American,  Mam- 
head  is  one  of  the  most  instructive  places  in 
England,  as  being  sufficiently  small  and  com- 
pact enough  to  be  within  the  reach  of  an  Amer- 
ican ownership.  The  ornamental  grounds, 
only  seven  acres,  were  kept  in  exquisite  order 
(in  I860)  by  two  men.  Here  are  the  finest 
Abies  morinda,  probably,  in  the  country,  GO 
feet  high,  and  very  pendulous;  also  a  mass  of 

rhododendrons,  25  feet  high  and  150  feet  in 

circumference,  the  earliest  already  in  bloom,  378  16 

41 


pat.]  EXGLAXD.  [the  rotal. 

i:i  November.    Although  the  park  is  only  70     £    s. 
the  groups  and  masses  are  so  beauti-  378  16 
ful]y  and  artistically  disposed,  and  the  ground 
so  undulating,  and  with  such  distant  views  of 
the  sea  and  the  river  Exe,  thai  it  looks  as  if  it 
might   contain    a  thousand    acres.      The   old 
church,  with  its  magnificent   old  yew-tree,  is 
quite  the  finest  in  rural  beauty  in  the  south  of 
England.    Back  to  Torquay  to  dine.    Expenses,       2     7 
Bill  at  Torquay,  three  weeks,  and  sundries,      .     53  15 

Dec.  13. — Leave  Torquay  by  train  at  11,  reach- 
ing Exeter  at  12.30  and  Salisbury  at  4.15 
(White  Hart).  Walk  to  the  cathedral.  Tor- 
quay to  Salisbury, 5  16 

Dec.  14. — After  seeing  cathedral  and  bishop's 
palace,  with  pretty  gardens,  take  carriage  at  11 
for  old  Sarum  and  Stonehenge,  9  miles  across 
Salisbury  Plain.  Back  by  Wilton  House,  Earl 
of  Pembroke's.  See  the  splendid  Vandyck- 
room,  with  perhaps  the  finest  and  largest 
sized  pictures  of  this  master  to  be  found  any- 
where in  one  collection,  most  of  them  likenesses 
of  the  Pembroke  family.  In  the  gardens  are 
'  the  cedars  of  Lebanon  planted  by  Sir  Philip 
Sidney,  it  being  at  Wilton  House  he  wrote  his 
';  Acadia."  Near  by  is  the  church  built  by 
Lord  Herbert  of  Lea,  at  a  cost  of  £80,000. 
Back  to  Salisbury  to  dine.     Expenses,     .  1  15 

Dec.  15. — Leave  Salisbury  in  train  at  10  for 
Tisbury,  17  miles,  where,  taking  a  fly,  drive  to 

Wardour  Castle,  Earl  of  Arundel's,  a  fine  house, 

with  a  very  grand  hall.     Walk  across  the  park  442     9 

42 


eALisJur.v.]  EXGLAXD.  [white  hart. 

to  old  Wardour  Castle,  a  splendid  ruin,  magnifi-  £  s. 
cently  clothed  ill  ivy,  and  with  the  most  superb  442  0 
cedars  in  England,  except  those  at  Warwick. 
Here  Lady  Blanche  Arundel  defended  the  cas- 
tle for  a  fortnight,  with  a  handful  of  men, 
against  one  thousand  Parliament  troops.  From 
here,  drive  across  the  country  to  Fonthill,  at 
present  belonging  to  the  Marquis  of  Westmin- 
ster, once  the  celebrated  residence  of  the  eccen- 
tric Beckford,  the  talented  author  of"  Vathek," 
the  most  gorgeous  of  Eastern  stories.  There 
are,  however,  no  remains  of  the  original  Font- 
hill  Abbey  of  Mr,  Beckford's  time,  except  a 
portion  of  the  great  tower;  and  to  one  not 
interested  in  Mr.  Beckford's  history  and  the 
extraordinary  circumstances  connected  with 
the  building  of  the  abbey,  this  visit  might  be 
omitted.  Back  to  Salisbury  by  G.  Expenses  : 
fare  to  Tisbury,  18s.;  carriage,  18s.,         .         .       1  1G 

Dec.  16. — See  cathedral  again,  the  chapter- 
house being  particularly  fine.  Leave  Salisbury 
at  2.15,  reaching  Winchester  (The  George)  at 
3.33.  Bill  at  Salisbury,  three  days,  £0  2s.; 
Salisbury  to  Winchester,  £1  4s.,        .         .         ,     10     G 

Dec.  IT. — Winchester.  See  cathedral  and 
Winchester  school,  etc. 

Dec.  18. — Leave  Winchester  at  10.12  by  train, 
reaching  Basingstoke  at  11,  where,  taking  a 
fly,  drive  G  miles  to  Strathfieldsaye,  the  Duke 
of  Wellington's,  a  flat  place,  with  a  pretty 

river  running  through  the  lawn;  a  very  plain 

yellow-stone  house  of  two  stories,  simply  fur-  464  11 

43 


wiNcnEPTEn.]  ENGLAND.  [the  geoege. 

nished,  with  the  same  patterned  carpet  over     £    s. 
the  whole  house,  most  of  the-  chambers  and  454  11 
si  lino  of  the  parlors  being  papered  with  engrav- 
ings pasted  on  the  walls.     There  is  an  avenue 
of  yews  hero  very  good,  and  an  interesting 
enclosure,  where  Copenhagen,  the  horse  which 
the  duke  rode  at  the  "battle  of  "Waterloo,  is 
buried ;  the  place  generally  of  little  pretension. 
Dark  to  Winchester  at  3.     Expenses,       .         .20 
Dec.  19. — Bill  at  "Winchester,  four  days,        .       3  10 
Leave  "Winchester  by  express  train  at  10.12, 
reaching  London  (Maurigy  Hotel,  Regent  Street) 
at  12.9.     "Winchester  to  London,       .         .         .26 


4G2 


This  trip,  of  about  four  months,  of  which  three 
weeks  were  passed  at  Torquay  and  some  two  weeks 
at  other  places,  might  be  accomplished  in  two  months 
and  a  half;  and  in  summer,  with  longer  days,  in  pro- 
portionally shorter  time.  The  expenses  put  down  are 
simply  those  of  hotels,  carriages,  and  railroads.  The 
author's  actual  expenses  for  extras,  sundries,  amuse- 
ments, etc.,  were,  for  the  period,  £712. 

41 


SECOND    TOUR. 

EXfil.AXI). 

(For  Three  Persons. — Five  Weeks.) 

April  8. — Leave  London  at  12,  reaching  £  s. 
Rochester  (The  Bull)  at  1.15.  After  lunch  take 
a  cab;  drive  to  Cobham  House,  Earl  of  Darn- 
ley's — splendid  woods  and  park.  Back  by 
Gad's-hill  House,  residence  of  Charles  Dickein. 
Scene  of  the  celebrated  robbery  of  Falstaff,  in 
Henry  IV.,  by  Prince  Hal.     Fare,    ...  15 

April  9. — Visit  cathedral.  Around  the  town. 
Seeing  Eastgate  House — very  quaint  and  ornate ; 
also  the  old  castle  said  to  have  been  built  by 
Julius  Caesar.  At  12  take  train  for  Canterbury, 
arriving  at  1  (The  Fountain).  After  lunch, 
take  train  for  Margate,  and  then  by  fly,  4  miles, 
to  Ramsgate  ;  the  former  much  the  finest  as  a 
marine  residence.  Back  to  Canterbury  at  7, 
to  dine.  Bill  at  Rochester,  £1  14s. ;  fare  and 
cab,  £1  10s., 3     4 

April  10. — Visit  the  cathedral;   truly  mag- 

nificent,  especially  the  exterior,  which  is  !  feet      3  10 

45 


TUXBRIDGE  WILLS.]  EXGLAXD.  [THE  CAVEELET. 

longer  than  York  Minster,  though  not  as  wide.      £    s. 
Seeing  inside  the  nave,  the  Bpot  where  Thomas-      8  19 
tt-Becket  was  slain  in  reign  of  Henry  II.,  in 
1160;  also  the  tomb  and  monument,  in  brass, 

of  Edward  the  Black  Prince;  -with  the  original 
shield,  coat-of-mail,  and  helmet  with  leopard 
crest,  worn  by  the  prince  at  the  battle  of 
Crcssy,  in  1350.  After  that,  to  St.  Martin's,  the 
first  Christian  church,  founded  in  187  by  some 
Christians  of  the  Roman  army.  Queen  Bertha, 
the  first  Christian  queen,  was  baptized  here,  in 
the  same  font  they  now  use ;  and  St.  Augustin 
preached  here.  Erasmus,  in  visiting  this  cathe- 
dral in  1510,  said:  "Gold  was  the  meanest 
thing  to  be  seen.  All  shone  and  glittered  with 
precious  stones  of  extraordinary  magnitude, 
some  larger  than  the  egg  of  a  goose."  After 
lunch,  at  1,  leave  Canterbury,  one  of  the 
quaintest  of  old  towns,  by  train;  reaching  Tun- 
bridge  TVells,  to  tea.  A  lovely  spot,  and  a 
ch arming  hotel  in  a  lawn  (The  Caverley).  Bill 
at  Canterbury,  £2  2s.;  to  Tunbridge,  £1  10s.,   .       3  12 

Both  the  Bull,  at  Rochester,  and  the  Foun- 
tain, at  Canterbury,  are  very  comfortable,  old- 
fashioned  inns. 

April  11. — Take  train  at  12  to  Tunbridge,  5 
miles ;  then  drive  by  fly,  8  miles,  to  Knolle,  the 
ancient  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Dorset;  now  occu- 
pied by  Countess  Amherst.  A  grand  old  place, 
celebrated  even  in  the  time  of  the  Conqueror — 

quite  as  old  as  Iladdon ;   and  the  state  apart • 

ments  in  perfect  preservation.     The  fire-dogs      7  11 

46 


TCXE7.IDGE  WELLS.]  EXGLAND.  [the  caverley. 

very  handsome — those  in  King  James's  bed-      £    s. 
room  of  solid  silver;  the  bed-cover  of  cloth-of-      7  11 

gold,  in  scarlet  tissue,  cost  £8,000 ;  the  mirrors, 
dressing-table,  sconces,  etc.,  like  the  fire-dogs, 
being  of  solid  silver;  the  walls  in  tapestry  cost- 
ing £20,000.  The  pictures  very  interesting — 
many  Knellers,  Lelys,  and  the  original  of  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds's  "Gypsy  Girl."  Knolle  has 
belonged  to,  and  been  inhabited  at  various 
periods  by,  Archbishop  Cranmer,  the  Earl  of 
Leicester,  the  Earl  of  Warwick,  and  many 
others.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  inhabited  hous 
in  England  which  retains  its  ancient  furniture. 
The  park  is  truly  magnificent,  8  miles  in  circum- 
ference, with  majestic  trees;  the  Duchess's  walk 
being  very  fine.  Back  to  Tunbridge,  to  dine. 
Expenses, 15 

April  12. — At  Tunbridge.  Seeing  the  town. 
Nothing  can  well  be  prettier  than  the  situation 
of  the  Caverley  Inn,  or  better  kept — in  a  charm- 
ing lawn,  like  a  private  place. 

April  13. — At  10,  taking  a  carriage,  drive  5 
miles,  to  Penshurst,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Syd- 
ney family,  and  where  Sir  Philip  Sydney  was 
born,  in  1554.  In  the  park  is  the  oak  planted 
at  his  birth,  to  which  Pen  Jonson  alludes  as 

"  That  tall  tree,  too,  which  of  a  nut  was  set 
At  his  great  birth,  where  all  the  Muses  met.'' 

Penshurst,  like  Knolle,  was  of  importance  be- 
fore the  Conquest;  and,  after  being  in  posses- 
sion of  several  noble  families,  was  presented  by 

Edward  IV.  to  Sir  William  Sydney  in    L549,       8  1G 

47 


TI-NHRIDGE  WELLS.]  ENGLAND.  [THE  CAVERLEY. 

after  the  battle  of  Hodden  Field.  The  young  £  s. 
Duke  of  Gloucester  and  his  sister  the  Princess  8  1G 
Elizabeth,  the  children  of  Charles  I.,  remained 
a  year  here,  under  charge  of  the  Countess  of 
Leicester,  who  was  the  mother  of  the  "  Sacha- 
rissa"  of  the  poet  Waller,  and  a  beautiful  avenue 
in  the  park  is  named  from  her  "  the  Sacharissa 
Walk."  Penshurst  was  also  the  birthplace  of 
Algernon  Sydney,  beheaded  in  the  Tower  in 
1G83.  The  mansion,  like  that  of  Ivnolle,  en- 
closes two  courts.  The  fine  old  baronial  hall 
is  5-i  feet  wide,  by  38  long,  and  62  high ;  having 
a  raised  dais  at  the  end,  and  three  antique  table3 
for  the  servitors  below.  The  fire  was  in  the 
centre  of  the  hall,  on  an  immense  set  of  double 
bars  on  high  dogs  of  iron,  rudely  carved;  the 
smoke  ascending  through  some  flumes  in  the 
ceiling.  The  most  interesting  apartments  at 
Penshurst  are  the  rooms  occupied  by  Queen 
Elizabeth,  where  the  furniture,  bed,  dressing- 
table,  and  toilet  arrangements,  remain  precisely 
as  during  the  queen's  visit — even  to  her  ink- 
stand and  card-table,  embroidered  by  her  own 
hand.  In  the  gallery  is  a  bridle  once  used  by 
the  Earl  of  Leicester.  The  park  was  once  G 
miles  in  extent,  but  is  now  much  reduced. 
From  Penshurst  drive  by  same  carriage  \% 
miles  to  Redleaf,  seat  of  William  Wells,  and 
so  celebrated  by  Loudon,  in  his  magazine, 
30  to  40  years  ago.  The  place  is  still  admir- 
ably kept  up,  and  looks  precisely  as  it  does 

in   Mr.   Loudon's   illustrations.      The   flower-       8  1G 

43 


st.  Leonard's.]  ENGLAND.  [victoria. 

garden  in  diamond  beds,  edged  with  tile,  is  £  s. 
the  same  —  even  the  rustic  houses  are  un-  8  10 
changed.  The  ornamental  grounds  are  in  as 
exquisite  order  and  as  beautiful  as  it  is  possible 
to  conceive ;  about  twelve  acres,  kept  by  nine 
men,  two  of  whom  have  worked  here  for  fifty 
years.  At  end  of  the  lawn,  separated  by  a  wire 
fence,  is  a  beautiful  rolling  park  of  many  hun- 
dred acres;  and  immediately  near  the  rockery 
is  a  charming  lake.  The  collection  of  trees, 
though  not  as  large  as  many  others,  are  much 
more  interesting  from  their  size;  being  the  first 
ever  introduced  into  England.  There  are  here 
two  Deodar  cedars,  58  and  65  feet  high,  which 
had  quite  assumed  the  character  and  habit  of 
cedars  of  Lebanon ;  a  Cunningliamia  sinensis, 
25  feet  high,  with  a  stem  5  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  a  Cryptomeria,  30  feet;  a  Douglas  fir,  70 ; 
an  Abies  morinda,  G5;  and  a  superb  Mensie- 
sii,  70.  There  is  also,  among  a  great  many  other 
very  rare  plants,  a  Pinus ponderosa,  the  largest 
in  England,  80  feet  high,  raised  from  a  seed 
sent  Mr.  "Wells  in  a  letter  from  the  lamented 
Douglas,  and  taken  by  him  from  a  cone  shot 
down  by  his  rifle.  The  collection  of  rhododen- 
drons was  very  fine,  especially  the  Sikkins  in 
the  house.  Back  to  Tunbridge,  to  dinner,  at  4 ; 
where,  taking  train  at  5.30,  reach  St.  Leonard's 
at  G.20  (Victoria  Hotel).  Expenses  at  Tun- 
bridge, and  carriage, 9  IS 

April  13. — St.  Leonard's.     Walk  about  the  

town  and  on  the  Esplanade,  3  miles  long,  the     IS  1-1 
5 


Portsmouth.]  ENGLAND.  [the  doltoix. 

finest  in  Europe.  Leave  St.  Leonard's  at  1,  £  s. 
reaching  Brighton  at  8.  (Bedford  Hotel.)  Bill  18  14 
al  St.  Leonard's,  £2  3s.;  to  Brighton,  17s.,       .      3    0 

April  14. — At  Brighton.  "Walk  about  the 
town  and  on  the  Esplanade;  see  the  Pavilion, 
built  1  »y  George  IV.,  in  the  Oriental  style — some 
of  the  rooms,  the  banquet  ing-hall,  and  music- 
room,  being  most  extraordinary. 

j  ipril  15. — Leave  Brighton  by  train,  at  11,  for 
Ford  Station,  in  40  minutes;  where,  by  fly,  in 
15  minutes,  to  Arundel  Castle — Duke  of  Nor- 
folk's— a  portion  built  by  Alfred  the  Great,  be- 
fore the  Norman  Conquest,  being  1,200  years 
old.  In  the  keep  is  a  subterranean  passage,  5 
miles  long,  to  Emberley  Castle.  Here  is  a  beau- 
tiful funebral  cypress.  The  dairy  is  very  pretty 
and  complete,  25  cows  being  milked  by  two 
men  and  a  boy,  and  the  milk  and  butter  cared 
for  by  one  woman  and  a  girl.  Lunch  at  Ford 
Station,  and  at  2.20  by  train  to  Chichester  in 
20  minutes.  (The  Dolphin.)  Taking  a  fly, 
drive  3  miles,  to  Goodwood,  the  Duke  of  Rich- 
mond's; an  uninteresting  house  outside,  but 
with  some  fine  rooms  and  pictures;  a  most  ex- 
tensive park  and  race-course;  some  old  cedars 
and  evergreen-oaks.  Back  to  Chichester,  to 
dine,,  at  6.  Bill  at  Brighton,  £9  10s. ;  fare  to 
Chichester,  £1  6s., 10  16 

April  10. — Leave  Chichester  at  11,  reaching 
Portsmouth  at  11.40.     Taking  a  fly,  drive  round 

the  town,  as  also  Portsea  and  Southsea;  seeing 

the  dock-yard,  where  9,000  men  are  employed,     32  10 

50 


9IIAXKLIX.]  ENGLAND,  [daisii  hotel. 

and  seeing  the  Victory,  on  board  of  which  Lord  £  *. 
Nelson  was  killed,  at  the  battle  of  Trafalgar.  32  10 
Cab  and  lunch,  12s.;  bill  at  Chichester,  €1  12s.,       2     4 

April  IT. — At  1.10,  by  boat  to  Ryde,  G  miles, 
parsing  Spithead.  Taking  carriage  after  lunch 
at  Ryde,  drive  9  miles  to  the  beautiful  little 
village  of  Shanklin  (Daish  Hotel). 

April  18. — Taking  carriage,  drive  to  Appel- 
dercombe ;  home  by  Ventnor  and  Bonchurch, 
15  miles.     Bill  at  Shanklin,       .         .         .  5  10 

April  20. — Leave  Shanklin  at  11 ;  stopping 
an  hour  at  Sandrock  Hotel,  one  of  the  most 
charming  of  rural  inns,  covered  with  ivy ;  and 
later  at  Northcourt,  Sir  Henry  Gordon's,  with 
a  pretty  old  park  of  only  15  acres.  Lunch  at 
Brixton,  where  there  is  an  interesting  old 
church  800  years  old,  where  the  late  Bishop  of 
Oxford  was  incumbent  ten  years,  and  reaching 
Freshwater  about  5,  to  dine  and  sleep. 

April  21. — Leave  Freshwater  at  10,  passing 
Farringford  House,  the  residence  of  Alfred 
Tennyson;  reaching  Alum  Bay  at  11.30  to 
lunch,  after  which,  taking  a  boat,  row  around 
the  Needles,  passing  through  the  Camel's  Eye 
into  Scratchel's  Bay,  under  immense  chalk- 
cliffs,  perfectly  white,  and  600  feet  high  ;  into 
the  great  cave,  296  feet  long,  with  the  over- 
hanging arch,  resplendent  with  exquisite  pris- 
matic colors,  and  covered  with  thousands  of 
birds.  Returning  to  Alum  Bay,  resume  car- 
riage, and  passing  through  several  lovely  vil 

lages,  including  Yarmouth,  and  Carisbrook  with     4  I     4 

51 


£ 

s. 

40 

4 

5 

10 

2 

15 

wi.st  cowES.]  EXGLAyi.  [fountain. 

rtle  and  well,  to  JS-ewport,  whence  by  rail 
five  miles  to  West  Cowes  (Fountain).  Car- 
riage round  the  island,  ..... 
Bill  at  Freshwater,   .        .        .        . 

April  22. — Take  boat  across  the  Medina 
River  to  East  Oowes.  Seeing  the  entrance  to 
Osborne,  and  walking  through  the  grounds  of 
East  Cowes  Castle ;  again  taking  boat,  row 
round  end  of  the  island ;  a  superb  sea-wall 
here,  belonging  to  Mr.  Bell,  of  BelVs  Life  in 
London,  costing  £30,000.  After  landing,  walk 
through  the  town  to  the  Esplanade  and  Royal 
Yacht  Club  House,  at  5 ;  take  steamer  for 
Southampton  at  6.  Bill  at  Cowes,  £1  17;  boat, 
etc.,  8s.,  2     5 

Southampton  (The  Dolphin). 

April  23. — Leave  Southampton  by  train  at 
11.35,  reaching  Oxford  (The  Mitre),  ma  Basing- 
stoke and  Reading,  at  3.05. 

April  24. — TTalk  through  the  various  col- 
leges and  their  gardens — the  avenue  in  Christ- 
Church  meadows,  and  Addison  Water-walk,  as 
well  as  the  Botanic  Garden,  being  particularly 
fine.  See  the  rowing  on  the  river  every 
evening. 

April  25. — Taking  a  carriage,  drive  eight 
miles  to  Blenheim — Duke  of  Marlborough's — 
erected  in  1707  from  designs  by  Sir  John  Yan- 
brugh.  It  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  private  palace 
in   England.     The  suite  of  state  apartments, 

400  feet  long,  is  very  grand,  and  filled  with  

magnificent  pictures  by  Rubens,  Yandyck,  Sir    51     0 

52 


oxford.]  EXGLAXD.  [the  mitre. 

Godfrey  Kneller,  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,   etc.;      £    st 
that  of  Sarah,  first  Duchess  of  Marlborough,     51     0 

represents  her  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
■women  of  that  period.  The  hall  is  very  grand, 
G7  feet  high,  and  the  library,  183  feet  long,  con- 
taining 17,000  volumes,  worth  £60,000.  The 
gardens  also  are  very  fine — some  300  acres,  of 
which  150,  in  grass,  are  cut  every  eight  days. 
Fine  masses  of  rhododendron  and  one  mass  of 
Portugal  laurel  320  feet  in  circumference ;  the 
artificial  water  here  is  150  acres.  In  an  en- 
closure near  the  garden  are  shown  some  emeus, 
a  species  of  ostrich,  which  are  quite  domesti- 
cated, breeding  every  year.  The  lien  lays  the 
eggs,  wherever  the  fancy  takes  her ;  the  cock 
gathers  them  together,  and  sits  upon  them 
liimself  nine  weeks.  Lunch  at  the  inn  at 
"Woodstock,  famous  for  its  gloves,  and  back  to 
Oxford  to  dine.     Expense,        .         .         .         .15 

April  20. — Oxford  in  the  morning.  Taking 
train  at  4.15  p.  m.,  reach  Buckingham  at  6 
(Swan  and  Castle).  Bill  at  Oxford,  £10  ;  Ox- 
ford to  Buckingham,  8s., 10    8 

April  27. — Walk  or  drive  to  Stowe,  the  mag- 
nificent seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buckingham;  the 
entrance  near  the  hotel,  through  a  grand  arch 
and  an  avenue,  four  miles  long,  of  beeches; 
the  house  very  superb,  969  feet  front,  and  the 
park  very  majestic.  Lunch  at  Buckingham, 
and,  taking  train  at  1.20,  reach  Woburn  |  Bed- 
ford A  n  1 1  s)  at  3.10.  

April  28.— Walk  to  Woburn  Abbey,  Duke    62  13 

53 


wouurcx.]  £X(i  LAXD.  [bedpobd  ASMS. 

of  Bedford's,  close  to  the  inn;  take  it  all  in  £  s. 
-  fine  as  any  place  in  England — the  farm  G2  18 
ingementa  most  extensive  and  admirable; 
the  Lous-  and  park  superb ;  and  the  place  won- 
derfully well  kept  up.  The  interior  of  Woburn 
Abbey  combines  more  of  elegance  and  comfort 
tban  most  of  the  show-houses,  the  rooms  gen- 
erally not  being  very  large  or  high,  though 
very  ornate.  One  apartment  contains  fourteen 
Tandy cks ;  another  was  filled  with  Canaletti, 
the  most  valuable  collection  in  the  country. 
In  the  library — a  charming  room  in  white  and 
gold,  with  windows  opening  upon  the  flower- 
garden,  and  divided  into  three  parts  by  col- 
umns, with  14,000  volumes — is  the  original 
Lion's  ilouth,  mentioned  by  Addison  in  the 
Rambler,  into  which  the  contributions  to 
the  Spectator  were  thrown.  The  picture-gal- 
lery, 130  feet  in  length,  as  well  as  the  different 
corridors,  is  filled  with  splendid  pictures  of 
the  Bedford  family,  by  Kneller,  Lely,  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds,  etc. ;  also  some  beautiful  pic- 
tures by  Stuart-Newton  and  Leslie.  Here  also 
is  the  cane  which  Charles  I.  left  on  his  last 
visit  here.  In  a  circular  room  at  the  end  are 
Canova's  Three  Graces.  The  gardens  and 
ornamental  grounds  —  50  acres — are  most 
charmingly  laid  out  and  planted — an  avenue 
of  araucarias,  fifteen  years  old  and  some 
18  feet  high ;    also   one  of  Deodars,  80   feet 

high.      There  is  a  horse-chestnut  here,  near  ; 

the  house,  though  outside  the  Ila-IIa,  300  feet     62  13 

54 


CAilSKIDGE.J  EXGLAXD.  [THE  BULL. 

in  circumference.    An  arcade  leading  from  the     £    s. 
house  through   the   gardens  is  one-fifth   of  a     G2  13 

mile  long.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  ornamental 
water  in  park  and  gardens,  mostly  formed  by 
tlie  drainage.  The  park  consists  of  3,800  acres, 
filled  with  deer  and  sheep,  and  renowned  for 
its  verdure  and  fertility.  The  farm-buildings 
are  also  very  perfect,  one  large  yard,  enclosed 
by  a  high  brick  wall,  being  devoted  to  different 
shops — carpenters,  painters,  joiners — all  flu- 
houses,  carts,  fences,  buildings,  etc.,  being 
made  on  the  place,  even  to  repairs  to  the 
abbey. 

April  29. — Leave  Woburn  by  carriage  at  10, 
driving  seven  miles  to  Ampthill  Park — Lord 
Wenselydale — afmeoldplace  with  a  charming 
avenue  ;  from  here,  five  miles  to  "Wrest  Park, 
Lady  Oowper's,  a  fine  house  in  style  of  the  pal- 
ace of  the  Tuileries,  with  gardens  truly  royal, 
like  Versailles,  with  grand  water-squares, 
surrounded  by  immense  yew-hedges  and  e  ■  - 
tended  vistas  of  elm,  lime,  and  beech,  with 
statues  and  temples  at  the  end  of  the  views. 
The  vegetable  gardens  and  training  of  the  fruit- 
trees  most  perfect;  fifty  acres  of  pleasure- 
grounds  ;  the  walks  in  the  Italian  gardens  25 
feet  wide,  and  the  water-glades  and  vistas 
twice  this.  The  American  garden  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  double  yew-hedge,  a  yard  or  so 
apart — one,  two  feet  high,  the  other,  three,  to 

represent  a  lady's  flounce ;  the  beds  of  rhodo- ■ 

dendrons  and   azalias  being   r  ;  ■■  ■  1   from  the    62  13 


camdridge.1  EXGLAXD.  [the  bull. 

ground-level  to  biz  feet  in  the  centre.     From      £    tt 
here  five  miles  to  station,  where  take  train  to    62  18 
Oauabridge    (The    Bull).      Bill    at    Woburn, 
£2  10s.;  fly,  £2;  train,  18s.,  .         .         .         .58 

April  30. — Taking  a  guide,  visit  Sydney 
College,  seeing  the  apartments  occupied  by 
Cromwell  when  a  student  here,  1G1G,  his  name 
being  entered  on  the  college  books  :  "  Oliverus 
Cromwell,  Hnntingtoniensis,  admissus  ad  com- 
meatum  Bociorum  Aprilis  vicissimo  sexto,  tntore 
magistro  Pieardo  Howlett."  Over  this  is  writ- 
ten, "Grandis  impostor,  earnifexperditissimus.'' 
To  Christ  College,  seeing  the  mulberry-tree 
planted  by  Milton  in  1673  ;  and  St.  John's  Col- 
lege, seeing  the  chapel,  library,  and  kitchen  ; 
also  the  chapel,  library,  and  kitchen  of  Trinity, 
where  they  daily  dine #  600  undergraduates; 
after  which,  to  the  Fitzwilliani  Museum  and 
Pembroke  College,  holding  only  44  under- 
graduates ;  and  lastly,  to  Corpus,  Peterhouse, 
King's,  and  Queen's.  The  chapel  at  King's 
said  to  be  the  finest  in  Christendom,  com- 
menced by  Edward  IV.,  and  built  by  different 
kings  to  Henry  VIII.,  Richard  III.  having 
contributed  £700  toward  it.  "Walk  through 
the  beautiful  grounds  of  King's,  Cains,  Clare, 
and  St.  John's,  down  to  the  boating-station. 

May  2. — Leave  Cambridge  by  train  at  1.30; 
reach  Audley  End,  the  magnificent  seat  of 
Lord  Braybrook,  a  splendid  estate   given  by 

Henry  VIII.  to  the  first  Lord  Cornwallis,  con . 

taining  one  of  the  grandest  of  halls  and  dining-     68     1 

56 


elt.]  ENGLAND.  [tue  lamb. 

rooms ;  the  house,  once  a  Benedictine  monas-      £    s. 
tery.    A  mile  beyond  is  Saffron  Walden,  where    G8    1 
the  church  is  said  to  be  the  finest  parish  church 
in  England.      Back  to   Cambridge    at    5.30. 

Expense, 10 

May  3, — Leave  Cambridge  at  1.30  by  train 
for  Ely  (The  Lamb),  10  miles,  arriving  at  2. 
See  the  cathedral,  by  far  the  most  ornate  of 
all  the  English  cathedrals ;  the  wood  carvings 
over  the  stalls  most  beautiful ;  fifteen  to  twen- 
ty subjects  from  the  Old,  and  as  many  from  the 
New  Testament.  The  Reredos  of  alabaster 
wonderfully  carved  and  enriched  with  precious 
stones,  at  a  cost  of  £3,000.    Bill  at  Cambridge,       9  1G 

May  4. — Leave  Ely  at  10.48,  reaching  King's 
Lynn  (The  Globe)  at  11.55.  After  lunch  at  1, 
taking  a  carriage,  drive  to  Sandringham,  8 
miles  ;  seat  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  ;  an  inferior 
house  (in  18G6),  but  a  grand,  new,  and  spacious 
kitchen-garden  of  fifteen  acres — seven  within, 
and  eight  without  the  walls.  The  trees  beau- 
tifully trained,  the  pears  (Standards)  being  all 
trained  as  distaffs.  There  are  some  eight  or 
ten  new  fruit  and  forcing  houses  here,  thirty 
or  forty  feet  long  each,  four  or  five  of  which 
were  devoted  to  pines,  three  hundred  a  year 
being  fruited.  Flowers,  asparagus,  mushrooms, 
lettuce,  beans,  peas,  and  other  vegetables,  were 
sent  to  London  every  day  for  the  prince's  table. 
The  gates  of  wrought  iron  to  the  avenue  were 

very  grand,  costing  £1,G00,  and  given  to  the 

prince  by  the  city  of  Norwich.     The  interior     7B   17 

57 


lynx  regis]  ,  ENGLAND.  [tiik  globe. 

of  the  Louse  very  simple  and  small,  not  as  large  £  s. 
or  fine  as  many  country-houses  on  the  Hudson  78  17 
River;  the  dining-room  only  holding  twenty; 
the  eqnerries  having  to  be  quartered  in  a  cot- 
tage,  and  the  servants  in  the  village.  The  nur- 
sery of  the  future  King  of  England  was  not  over 
12  x  15,  and  his  Led  a  simple  little  plain  cot. 
A  very  interesting  thing  at  Sandringham  is  the 
method  of  breeding  and  raising  pheasants. 
Thirty  compartments  were  each  occupied  by 
one  cock  and  twelve  hen-pheasants.  Every 
morning  the  eggs  are  gathered  and  placed 
under  common  hens,  twelve  to  fifteen  to  each. 
When  hatched,  the  hen  and  young  pheasants 
are  removed  to  coops,  each  with  a  little  yard. 
When  sufficiently  old,  the  young  pheasants  are 
turned  out  into  the  preserves.  Three  thousand 
are  raised  in  this  manner  in  a  single  spring. 
The  dog-kennels  are  likewise  well  worth  see- 
ing, though  only  for  shooting-dogs — pointers, 
setters,  retrievers,  etc. 

May  5. — Leave  the  hotel  in  a  carriage  at  10, 
driving  first  to  Houghton  House,  Lord  Chol- 
mondeley's,  built  by  Sir  Robert  Walpole  in 
1700;  certainly  the  most  superb  interior  in 
England.  The  grand  hall,  a  cube  of  forty  feet, 
is  unsurpassed,  the  entire  sides  and  ceiling 
being  of  elaborately-carved  stone,  the  figures 
of  the  size  of  life.  The  grand  banqueting- 
room,    drawing-rooms,    state    bedrooms,    etc., 

wonderfully  beautiful — especially  the  ceilings, 

exquisitely   carved,    enriched,    and    gilt;    the     78  17 


PETERBOROUGH.]  EXGLAXD.  [THE  ANGEL. 

great  wonder  of  the  house  being  the  doors  of  £  s. 
solid  mahogany  in  the  state-rooms,  highly  78  17 
gilded.  The  views  from  the  windows  of  the 
grand  avenues  and  the  park  are  superb.  From 
here  14  miles  on  to  Ilolkham,  seat  of  the  Earl 
of  Leicester,  whose  ancestor,  Mr.  Coke,  was 
considered  the  first  farmer  in  the  country.  A 
grand  house  and  park,  with  most  stately  ave- 
nues. Back  26  miles  to  Lynn,  making  a  drive 
of  52  miles.    Bill  at  Lynn  and  carriage,    .        .       9  10 

May  6. — Leave  Lynn  at  1.30  by  train,  reach- 
ing Peterborough  (The  Angel)  at  3.30.  Visit 
the  cathedral,  a  portion  of  the  front  being  very 
beautiful ;  the  interior  also  very  handsome, 
especially  the  roof  of  the  Lady  Chapel.  Here 
is  a  monument  to  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  and 
Catharine  of  Arragon,  who  are  buried  here, 
and  a  stone  carved  in  figures  as  a  memento  of 
the  Christians  killed  by  the  Danes  in  870 — a 
thousand  years  old.  Fare  to  Peterborough, 
£1  3s. ;  bill,  £2  6s., 3     9 

Hay  7. — Walk  or  drive  to  Milton  Abbey, 
Lord  Fitzwilliam's,  4  miles  from  Peterborough. 
A  fine  old  mansion,  time  of  Henry  VIII. ;  grand 
old  trees  in  the  park,  especially  one  group  of 
horse-chestnuts.  Taking  train  at  5.30,  reach 
Stamford  (The  George)  at  6.  Bill  at  Peter- 
borough,    2     6 

May  8. — "Walk  to  Burleigh  House,  Marquis 
of  Exeter's,   built   and   planted   by  the  great 

Lord  Burleigh,  Queen  Elizabeth's  High  Treas 

urer,  who  (the  queen)  planted  the  great  elm     94  11 

59 


ketti::  ENGLAND*  [the  royal 

Bear    1 1 1  *  -    boitse.     The   hall   wonderfully  fine,       £    s. 
and    BO   are   all    the    state-rooms,  which    have     94  11 
been  occupied   by  Queen    Elizabeth   and  by 
C^ieen  Victoria.    The  original  kitchen  of  Lord 

Burleigh  is  still  used.  The  collection  of  pic- 
tures very  beautiful.  Returning  to  hotel,  take 
a  carriage  and  drive  25  miles  to  Kettering 
(The  Royal),  passing,  first,  Deene  Park,  Lord 
Cardigan's,  the  leader  of  the  celebrated  charge 
of  the  Light  Brigade  at  Balaklava.  Deene 
Park  has  very  beautiful  grounds  and  lake ; 
the  Deodar  cedars  are  especially  beautiful. 
From  here  to  Farming  AVoods,  a  charming, 
quaint  old  place ;  also  with  a  river,  and  a 
superb  double  avenue.  Four  miles  beyond, 
Boughton  House,  Duke  of  Buccleugirs,  an  im- 
mense old  house,  the  grounds  interspersed  with 
water-glades  and  avenues,  extending  in  all  76 
miles.  An  ancestor  to  the  present  duke  was 
anxious  to  make  an  avenue  from  Boughton 
to  London,  VG  miles,  but,  not  being  able  to 
accomplish  this,  he  made  the  same  amount  of 
miles  in  avenue  on  his  own  place.  Reach  Ket- 
tering to  dinner  at  7  o'clock.    Bill  at  Stamford 

and  posting  expenses, 3  OG 

May  9. — Leave  Kettering  in  posting-carriage 
at  10  for  Rushton  Hall,  a  grand  old  Elizabethan 
house,  with  superb  great-timbered  hall,  where 
Father  Oldcorn  and  two  of  the  Guy  Fawkes 
conspirators  were  concealed  in  the  chimney, 

the  place  then  belonging  to  Tresham.     Taking  ■ 

rail,   reach  Northampton  via  Wellingborough     97  11 

GO 


NOBTHAMPTON.]  ENGLAND.  [THE  GEORGE. 

at  12.00.  After  lunch  at  the  George,  take  car-  £  s. 
riage  and  drive  G  miles  to  Althorp,  Lord  Spen-  07  1 1 
cer's,  a  simple  hut  large  house,  famous  for  its 
pictures,  there  being  one  of  a  boy  blowing 
a  light,  of  inestimable  value,  and  many  Ru- 
benscs,  Vandycks,  Lelys,  Knellers,  etc.,  etc.  A 
grand  library  of  45,000  volumes,  Dryden  being 
once  librarian.  Here  is  a  Decameron,  costing 
£2,2G0,  put  up  at  auction  at  £100,  with  only 
two  bidders — the  Duke  of  Roxburgh  and  Earl 
Spencer:  second  bid,  £120  ;  third,  £150;  and 
so  on,  until,  within  ten  minutes,  it  ran  up  to 
£2,2G0.  Also,  a  Bible  in  vellum,  printed  in 
gold,  four  hundred  years  old,  costing  £G00. 
Back  to  Northampton  to  dine,  passing  a  charm- 
ing place — ITarleston  House. 

May  10. — Taking  carriage,  drive  8  miles  to 
Castle  Ashby,  Marquis  of  Northampton \s,  a 
large  though  not  fine  house,  with  lovely  Ital- 
ian and  terrace  gardens ;  charming  park,  with 
stately  avenue.  Back  to  Northampton  to 
lunch,  when,  taking  train  at  2.20,  reach  Dun- 
stable, famous  for  its  straw  hats  and  larks  ; 
going  to  the  Bed  Lion  Inn,  where  Charles  I. 
slept  the  niu'ht  before  the  battle  of  Naseby. 
Bill  and  carriage  at  Northampton,  £0  16s. ; 
rail  to  Dunstable,  8s 4     4 

May  11. — Leave  Dunstable  by  train  at  0.1 5 
for  Hatfield,  where  walk  through  the  grounds 
and  park  of  Hatfield  House,  Marquis  of  Salis- 
bury's, once  occupied  by  Queen  Elizabeth  and 

Charles  I.;  a  quaint  old  garden,  with  pleached  101  15 
6  61 


\v-<.x~tiii:-!iii.l.]    EXGLAXD.  [the  crow.v. 

alleys  .rtn<l  magnifioent  oaks.  From  here  by  £  s. 
rail  to  St.  Albans,  where  lunch  and  see  the  101  15 
abbey,  built  fifteen  years  after  the  Conquest. 
From  St.  Alban's  in  fifteen  minutes  by  rail  to 
Harrow-on-the-Hill  (The  Crown) ;  walk  to 
Harrow  School,  with  its  beautiful  views;  visit 
the  church  where  are  the  effigies  of  Lord  Byron 
and  Sir  Robert  Peel,  upon  the  tablet  erected  to 
the  memory  of  their  tutor.  Expenses  at  Har- 
row and  carriage, 3  15 

May  12. — Leave  Harrow  at  9.30,  with  post- 
horses  across  the  country  to  Windsor  (The 
"White  Hart)  in  two  hours,  18  miles ;  a  charm- 
ing drive.  After  seeing  the  castle,  drive 
through  the  long  walk  (3  miles)  to  the  Royal 
Lodge  (where  George  IV.  once  lived)  and 
Cumberland  Lodge,  to  Virginia  "Water,  8  miles 
in  circumference,  though  artificial,  passing  the 
beautiful  Roman  ruins  erected  by  George  IV., 
supposed  to  be  over  two  thousand  years  old. 
Rack  to  "Windsor  through  the  Great  Park. 

llo.y  14. — Leave  "Windsor  at  10.30,  with 
posting-carriage  for  Stoke  Pogis  Church, 
where  Gray  wrote  his  "  Elegy  in  a  Country 
Church-yard,"  seeing  "that  yew-tree's  shade" 
— there  is  but  one  ;  "  those  rugged  elms"  being 
in  the  Eton  play-grounds,  some  mile  or  more 
away,  and  not  in  the  church-yard,  as  generally 
supposed ;  through  the  magnificent  Burnham 
beeches  by  Salt  Hill  (where  Eton  Montem  was 

formerly  held)  to  Dropmore,  Lady  Grenville's, 

celebrated  for  its  collection  of  conifers.     Here  105  10 

62 


tvixdsor.J  ENGLAND.  [the  white  haht. 

is  a  beautiful  cedar-of-Lebanon  avenue,  fifty  £  *. 
years  old,  and  the  finest  deodars,  araucarias,  10o  10 
douglasiis,  etc.,  in  the  country,  forty  to  ninety- 
five  feet  high,  many  planted  fifty  years  since  ; 
a  mile  beyond  is  Cleifden,  Duke  of  Suther- 
land's, renowned  for  its  exquisite  views  and 
flowers.  Here  is  a  cedar  of  Lebanon,  brought 
from  Mount  Lebanon  by  Mr.  Disraeli.  Back 
through  Windsor  Great  Park  to  Windsor, 
where,  taking  train  at  ."3,  reach  London  at  G. 
BUI  at  Windsor  and  post-horse,        .        .        .8  10 

£114    0 

63 


THIRD    TOUR. 

ENGLAND    AND     WALES. 

(For  Four  Persons. — Two  Months.) 

June  20. — Leave  London  at  11.45  by  train, 
reaching  Devizes  at  3.50  (The  Bear).  See 
town,  churches,  etc. 

June  21. — Taking  carriage  at  10,  drive  first 
to  Sloperton  Cottage,  where  Tom  Moore  lived 
and  died.  A  few  miles  beyond  is  Bowood,  the 
second  finest  place  in  England,  Trentham  being 
the  first ;  home  by  Bromham  Churchyard,  where 
Tom  Moore  is  buried. 

June  22. — Leaving  Devizes  at  10,  in  carriage, 
drive  a  few  miles,  to  Erlstoke  Park,  the  seat  of 
Mr.  Watson  Taylor  ;  a  superb  park,  with  mag- 
nificent trees.     Return  to  Devizes  by  3. 

June  24. — Taking  posting-carriage  at  9,  drive 
through  Trowbridge  and  "Westbury,  to  Warmin- 
ster, 19  miles;  arriving  at  12,  and  lunching  at 
the  Bath  Arms.  Taking  a  second  carriage  and 
fresh  horses,  drive  5  miles,  to  Longleat,  the 
magnificent  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Bath.     The 

64 


DEVIZES.')  EXGLA  [CLIFTON  D0WX3. 

park,  30  miles  in  circumference,  1,000  deer,  £  s 
thirteen  or  fourteen  villages,  and  half  of  Frome 
and  Warminster.  The  house,  built  300  years 
ago  by  Inigo  Jones ;  the  greal  avenue  is  partic- 
ularly grand  here.  Return  to  Warminster,  to 
dine.  After  which,  leaving  the  inn  with  the 
first  set  of  horses,  reach  Devizes  at  8.40, 50  mil 
drive  all  round.  London  to  Devizes,  £6  ;  ex- 
penses at  Warminster,  £2  10s.,         .        .        .7  10 

June  25. — Leaving  Devizes  at  10,  in  posting- 
carriage,  drive  14  miles  to  Marlborough ;  then 
with  fresh  horses,  0  miles,  to  Savenack — the 
Marquis  of  Ailesbnry's.  Eight  immense  avenues 
of  beech-trees,  converging  to  a  centre,  Save- 
nack Forest  being  the  only  one  in  England 
owned  by  a  subject.  Some  of  the  trees  here 
are  as  fine  as  in  Sherwood  Forest.  Back  to 
Marlborough,  to  dine  at  the  Ailesbury  Arms. 
Leaving  Marlborough  at  6,  with  the  first  horses, 
reach  Devizes  at  9.  Horses  and  dinner  at  Marl- 
borough,   118 

June  20. — Visit  Devizes  Castle,  near  the 
hotel,  first  built  in  1107;  destroyed  by  Crom- 
well;  rebuilt  by  Mr.  Leach,  Avhohas  restored  it 
most  wonderfully;  with  beautiful  grounds.  At 
2  take  train  for  Bristol,  and  by  carriage  to  Clif- 
ton— Clifton  Downs  Hotel — by  4.  See  Suspen- 
sion-bridge, 700  feet  long,  230  feet  high,  and  3  1- 
feet  wide.  Bill  at  Devizes  and  horses,  one  week,     19     9 

June  28. — Walk  about  the  town  and  rocks. 

After  lunch  drive  in  carriage  to  Blaize  Castle 

and  the  Henbury  0ot1  iges,  most  charmingly    28  17 

05 


devizes.]  ENGLAND.  [beaufobt  arms. 

tied  and  arranged  for  the  poor  people  of     £    s. 
thfc  estate ;  also  Henbnr y  Church,    .        .        .28  17 

June  29. — Leave  Clifton  at  12.45,  reaching 
Chepstow  at  2.80.  Walk  to  Chepstow  Castle, 
whore  Henry  Martyn,  one  of  the  regicides,  was 
confined  20  years.  Bill  at  Clifton,  5  days,  £16  ; 
rail  to  Chepstow,  £1, 16     0 

June  30. — Walk  or  drive  3  miles,  to  Fierce- 
field  Park,  with  fine  views.  After  lunch  drive 
in  carriage,  5  miles,  to  Tintern  Abbey  (Beaufort 
Arms).    Bill  at  Chepstow  and  carriage,  3  days,       9  15 

July  1. — "Walk  or  drive  to  Wyndclyff.  Beau- 
tiful view  of  the  Wye;  and  hack  to  the  Abbey 
rest  of  the  day. 

July  2. — Leaving  Tintern  in  a  carriage  with 
post-horses  at  9.30,  reach  ^Monmouth  at  12. 
Lunch  at  Beaufort  Arms;  after  which  drive  to 
Troy  House,  an  old  place  of  the  Dnke  of  Bean- 
fort's.  Seeing  Henry  V.'s  cradle  and  a  famous 
old  mantelpiece.  Home  by  Colefort  and  by 
Clearwell  Court,  seat  of  the  Countess  of  Dun- 
raven,  a  fine  old  castellated  house  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  with  a  most  charming  little 
church.     Back  to  Tintern  by  8.     Expenses,     .      2  10 

July  6.- — Leave  Tintern  at  10  in  carriage  with 
post-horses,  for  Raglan,  where  lunch;  after 
which  walk  to  Raglan  Castle,  perhaps  the  finest 
ruin  in  England.  Back  to  Tintern  by  8.  Ex- 
penses,       2  10 

July  11.— Bill  at  Tintern,  8  days,  .         .     16  13 

Leaving  Tintern  at  12,  in  carriage,  drive  5 

miles, .     TG    5 

C6 


CARMARTHEN.]  WALL'S.  [THE  IVY-BUSH. 

to  Chepstow  ;  then  by  rail  through  Cardiff,  £  s. 
Neathe,  Newport,  etc.,  to  Carmarthen  (The  76  5 
Ivy-Bush),  at  G;  96  miles.     Expenses  of  rail,   .       4  16 

July  12 — Leaving  the  inn  at  10,  drive  in  car- 
riage and  post-horses  through  the  lovely  vale 
of  Towy,  passing  Abergwili,  with  the  palace 
of  the  Bishop  of  St.  Davids;  Grongar  Hill,  the 
subject  of  Dyer's  beautiful  poem  ;  the  ruins  of 
Dryslynn  Castle,  wonderfully  situated  on  a 
conical  hill ;  Dynevor  Castle,  Lord  Dyncvor\s,  a 
magnificent  park,  with  majestic  masses  of  oaks, 
a  fine  house,  and  lovely  'flower-garden;  to  Land- 
lilo,  where  lunch,  at  the  Cawdor  Arms.  Start- 
ing again  at  3,  reach  in  half  an  hour  Golden 
Grove,  Earl  of  Cawdor's,  a  grand  castellated 
house,  having  a  front,  including  stables  and 
offices,  of  nearly  500  feet,  with  most  exquisitely- 
kept  pleasure-grounds.  The  collection  of  the 
new  evergreens  very  large  and  very  perfect  in 
shape  by  means  of  the  shears.  The  view  from 
the  terrace  very  extensive  and  beautiful,  re- 
sembling that  from  Windsor  Castle ;  embracing, 
among  other  things,  three  ruined  castles.  Pass- 
ing a  mile  or  so  beyond,  Middleton  Park,  Sir 
Joseph  Paxton's,  and  Ty  Gwyn,  once  the  resi- 
dence of  Sir  Kichard  Steele,  where  he  wrote 
"  The  Conscious  Lovers,"  and  much  of  the 
Spectator,  Tatler,  and  Rambler.  Pack  to  the 
Ivy-Bush,  where  Steele  died — about  30  miles. 

July  13.— Bill  at  Carmarthen,  £4  12s.;  car- 
riage, £2,  G  13 

Leave  at  1  by  train,  reaching  Tenby  (White  • 

07  -7  13 


t  ;  \  b  y  .  ]  WAL  E8.  [ W  n  ite  lio  >*. 

Lion)  at  2:  a  charmingly-situated  little  Welsh  £  5. 
watering-place.  Walk  about  the  town  and  87  13 
Bands.    Rail  from  Carmarthen,        .        .  1    G 

July  14. — Leave  Tenby  at  10,  with  post- 
horses;  driving  5  miles,  to  Manorbeer  Castle, 
a  fine  old  ruin;  then  2  miles  farther, to Lamphey, 

an  old  ruined  palace  of  the  Bishops  of  St. 
David's, with  an  exquisite  nmllioned  window; 
and  2  miles  beyond,  to  Pembroke,  where  lunch, 
After  which,  5  miles,  to  Staekpole  Court,  another 
seat  of  the  Earl  of  Cawdor's;  2  miles  beyond 
tins,  St.  Goran's  Chapel,  in  a  most  desolate 
fissure  in  the  rocks,  once  inhabited  by  a  her- 
mit; 2  miles  farther  is  the  Huntsman's  Leap 
and  the  Caldron  or  Punch-bowl,  an  extraor- 
dinary hole,  200  to  300  feet  deep,  with  the 
s^a  flowing  in  and  out ;  2  miles  again  beyond 
this  you  come  to  the  Stacks,  three  wonder- 
ful roclcs,  rising  one  hundred  or  more  feet 
from  the  sea,  and  covered  with  myriads  of 
a  peculiar  sea-bird,  which  from  time  imme- 
morial come  here,  from  Russia,  to  breed. 
Ten  miles  back  to  Pembroke,  to  dine,  and 
see  the  castle.  Leaving  Pembroke  at  8  p.  u., 
reach  Tenby  at  9.30.  A  very  delightful 
excursion  of  46  miles  (all  round).  Dinner 
at  Pembroke,  £1 ;  carriage  and  driver,  £1 
10s.,  .         .         .         . 

July  18.— Bill  at  Tenby,  6  days,   . 
Leave  Tenby  at  11.30  for  Carmarthen, 
Carmarthen  to  Strada  Florida,  rail,  . 

68  109  10 


2 

16 

15 

0 

1 

15 

1 

0 

OSWESTRY. J  WALES.  [WYN&TAY  ARMS. 

Thence  by  carriage  (18G7) — rail  probably  now      £    s. 
finished — to  Aberystwith  at  6  p.  m.  (Bellevue  109  10 

Hotel), 16 

Bill  at  Aberystwith,  one  week,        .        .        .     15     0 

July  24. — Leaving  Aberystwith  at  1.05,  by 
train,  reach  Shrewsbury  at  5  (The  Raven  Inn). 
A  very  beautiful  journey  through  a  lovely 
valley.  Shrewsbury,  a  very  quaint  old  town, 
with  a  very  beautiful  walk  called  "  The  Quarry." 
Bill  at  Shrewsbury, 4  10 

July  25. — Leave  Shrewsbury  at  2.45,  by 
train,  reaching  Oswestry  (Wynstay  Arms),  an 
old-fashioned  inn,  with  a  bowling-green. 

July  2G. — Walk  or  drive  2  miles,  to  Poking- 
ton  Park,  a  fine  place,  with  a  superb  cedar  of 
Lebanon.  At  1,  in  carriage  and  post-horses,  to 
Brinkinalt,  a  fine,  well-kept  place  and  charming 
house,  belonging  to  Lord  E.  Hill,  and  where 
the  Duke  of  Wellington  used  to  stay  when  a 
boy.  After  this  to  Chirk  Castle,  seat  of  Colonel 
Biddulph,  founded  in  1013,  but  battered  down 
by  Cromwell.  In  one  of  the  chambers  is  the 
bed  used  by  Charles  I.,  and  a  beautiful  cabinet 
given  the  family  by  the  king.  The  quadrangle 
of  the  castle  is  very  fine,  with  Elizabethan  win- 
dows ;  and  all  the  old  apartments  are  in  admir- 
able keeping  and  preservation.  Most  superb 
views  into  17  counties.  Back  by  6  to  Os- 
westry. 

July  27. — Walk  or  drive  11  miles,  to  Park 

nail,    perhaps    the    most    extraordinary    and 

ancient  old-timbered  house  in  the  country;   n  129   16 

69 


LLAXGOLLEX.J  WALES.  [THE  HAND. 

very  curioua  old  hall,  in  oak,  with  a  Mack  oaken  £  s. 
table,  to  dine  25,  20  feet  long,  by  G  to  8  feet  129  16 
wide,  made,  in  1583,  of  one  plank.  The  draw- 
ing-room, dining-room,  corridor  (with  old  fam- 
ily portraits)  aH  panelled  in  dark  oak, with  heavy 
carved  bedsteads  and  chairs;  and  an  estate  of 
500  acres.  The  small  diamond  windows  in 
great  bays,  extending  the  whole  width  of  the 
different  projections,  were  very  curious ;  the 
bouse  being  on  three  sides  of  a  square,  with  a 
quaint  old  terrace.  From  here  to  an  old  ruined 
castle,  very  picturesque,  and  beautifully  situ- 
ated, belonging  to  the  De  Warrens.  Kear  by 
an  old  village,  Wittington,  witb  its  old  bouses, 
and  church  covered  with  religious  mottoes. 
Home  by  Aston  Park,  to  dine.  Bill  at  Oswes- 
try, 3  days,  and  2  carriages,      .         .         .  8  15 

July  28. — Leave  Oswestry  by  rail  at  10.40, 
reaching  Llangollen  at  12.15  (The  Hand).  "Walk 
about  the  town,  seeing  the  curious  old  carved 
bouse  of  the  Ladies  of  Llangollen — Lady  Emily 
Butler  and  Miss  Ponsonby — who  lived  here 
together  in  male  costume  for  forty-odd  years. 
Rail, 1  18 

Aug.  1. — "Walk  by  the  banks  of  the  canal  to 
Valle  Crucis  Abbey,  a  beautiful  ruin  quite 
equal  in  parts  to  Tintern.  After  lunch,  drive 
to  "Wynstay,  residence  of  Sir  William  "Watkins 
"Wynn,  a  fine  old  park  with  a  grand  avenue  and 
new  house  in  the  French  chateau  style,  the 

old  bouse,  with  valuable  library  and  pictures, 

140     9 
10 


ludlow.]  EXGLAXD.  [the  feathers. 

having  been  burnt  in  1858.     Walk  to  the  old     £    s. 
castle  Dinas,  on  top  of  the  mountain  opposite  140     9 
the  hotel.    Bill  at  Llangollen,  three  days,        .      7  10 
Aug.  2. — Leaving  Llangollen   at  12,  reach 

Shrewsbury  at  1.40,  and  the  quaint  old  town 
of  Ludlow  (The  Feathers — most  picturesque  of 
inns)  at  2.30.     Rail, 2    5 

After  lunch,  walk  to  Ludlow  Castle,  a  splen- 
did old  ruin,  though  admirably  well  preserved, 
most  interesting  as  having  been  the  residence 
of  Edward,  Prince  of  Wales,  after  his  marriage 
with  Catharine  of  Arragon,  subsequently  queen 
of  Henry  VIII. ;  also  of  the  young  princes  who 
later  were  smothered  in  the  tower  by  their 
uncle,  Richard  III.  Here,  too,  Milton  wrote 
his  "  Comus,"  which  was  performed  before  the 
court.  Over  the  gate  Butler  lived,  and  wrote 
his  "  Hudibras."  Sir  Henry  Sydney,  father  of 
the  famous  Sir  Philip  Sydney,  was  governor 
here  under  Queen  Elizabeth.  Take  it  all  in  all, 
Ludlow  Castle  is  as  interesting  a  ruin  as  any 
in  England,  from  its  admirable  preservation 
and  the  great  number  of  historical  characters 
and  events  connected  with  it. 

Aug.  3. — Taking  a  carriage  at  10.30,  drive 
through  the  lovely  village  of  Broomfield  to 
Downton  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  late  cele- 
brated horticulturist,  Andrew  Knight,  for 
many  years  the  president  of  the  London  Horti- 
cultural Society — a  beautiful  house,  charming 

flower-garden,  grand  views  over  a  magnificent  

park.     From  here  to  Oakley  Park — Lady  Mary    150  13 

71 


KIDDEUMIX^TER.]  ENGLAND.  [tRE  LIOX. 

Olive's;  Buperb  trees,  and  a  great  estate — all  the  £  8. 
i  mbraced  from  the  house;  by  Oomus  Val-  150  13 
ley  and  Haywood,  where  the  scene  of  the 
■•  Masque"  was  laid,  and  where  George  Barn- 
well, the  London  apprentice,  killed  his  uncle. 
Home  by  Moor  Park,  a  fine  old  place  two  miles 
from  Ludlow.     Carriage,  .         .         .         .110 

Aug.  4. — Drive  again,  or  walk,  to  Oakley 
Park,  to  see  the  Druid  oaks,  said  to  be  3,000 
years  old.  From  here  to  Downton  Hall,  Sir 
Charles  Boughton's;  beautiful  lawn  and  flower- 
gardens,  and  fine  extensive  views.  Bill  at 
Ludlow,  three  days,  and  carriage,     .         .         .       5  10 

Aug.  5. — Leave  Ludlow  at  10.30,  and,  after 
three  changes,  reach  Kidderminster  at  1.10. 
After  lunch  at  The  Lion,  drive  to  Hagley  Hall, 
seat  of  Lord  Lyttleton  (Coke  on  Lyttleton), 
fine  house  and  grand  park ;  and  to  Leasowes, 
the  home  of  the  poet  Shenstone. 

Aug.  6. — Leaving  Kidderminster  at  11,  drive 
to  Stewart  Castle,  Colonel  Foster's,  celebrated 
for  the  perfection  of  his  stables,  eight  hunters 
being  kept  here,  each  in  a  separate  box,  well 
ventilated,  and  heated  in  winter  by  hot-water 
pipes.  The  saddle-and-harness  rooms  in  most 
admirable  condition— the  bits,  stirrups,  chains, 
etc.,  polished  as  bright  as  silver.  Eighteen 
horses  are  kept  here,  one  man  for  every  two 
horses.  From  here  a  few  miles  beyond  to  En- 
ville  Hall,  Earl  of  Stamford  and  Warrington's, 

the  finest  ornamental  grounds  in  the  world: 

157  13 
72 


KIDDERMINSTER.]  EXGLAXB.  [klXG's  HEAD. 

75  acres  of  mown  lawn  ;  a  splendid  conserve-  £  8. 
tory,  costing  £18,000;  four  lakes;  a  purple  157  13 
beech,  350  feet  in  circumference  (the  branches)  ; 
some  horse-chestnuts  and  limes  even  larger ;  a 
pinus  nobilis,  50  feet  high  ;  taxodium  dis- 
tichum,  perhaps  100  feet  in  circumference  on 
the  ground;  a  Douglas  iir,  100  feet  high;  and 
endless  specimens  of  cedars  of  Lebanon,  deo- 
dars and  araucarias.  Back  to  Kidderminster 
by  Lea  Castle,  a  charming  place,  well  kept,  line 
trees  and  grounds. 

Aug.  7. — Leave  Kidderminster  at  11  in 
posting-carriage,  11  miles,  for  AVhitby  Court, 
Lord  Dudley  and  Ward's.  The  whole  effect 
of  the  place  very  stately,  Lord  Dudley  having 
spent  within  a  few  years  £400,000  upon  it. 
The  lake  is  not  as  fine  as  that  at  Trentham. 
The  house,  a  mixture  of  Trentham  and  Bowood, 
is  very  grand;  the  church  also  very  beautiful. 
The  estate  here  runs  12  miles  on  each  side. 
The  farms  are  in  exceedingly  good  condition — 
rented  at  from  30s.  to  £2  10s.  an  acre,  and  the 
farmer  may  double  and  treble  his  rent,  as  each 
acre  usually  produces,  when  well  cultivated, 
from  15  to  25  bushels  of  wheat.  Bill, 
three  days  at  Kidderminster,  and  three  car- 
riages,         12     0 

Aug.  8. — Leave  Kidderminster  at  9.05  by 
train,  reaching  Oxford  (King's  Bead)  al  1. 
Bail,  Kidderminster  to  Oxford,        .        .        . 

See  colleges  (before  described)^  

171  13 


DORKIN...]  ENGLAND.  [the  RED  LION. 

Aug.  9. — Leave  Oxford  by  train,  reaching  £  s. 
Dorking  (Red  lion)  at  4.20.  Bill  at  Oxford,  171  18 
£2  10;  rail  to  Dorking,  £2  10,        ...50 

Aug.  10. — Walk  to  Deepdene,  the  residence 
of  Mr.  Hope,  the  author  of  "  Anastasius,"  and 
where  Disraeli  wrote  "Coningshy" — a  most 
beautiful  place,  and  in  admirable  keeping;  14 
acres  of  dressed  ground,  and  14  men  and  2  boys 
allowed  for  the  gardens  and  houses — yet  the 
place  has  never  cost  over  £800  a  year.  Few- 
places  in  England  have  more  artistic  beauty 
than  Deepdene. 

Aug.  11. — Drive  to  the  Rookery,  a  quaint  old 
place  with  terraced  flower-garden  over  a  pretty 
lake  ;  next  to  Walton  Hall,  where  Evelyn, 
author  of  the  celebrated  "Sylva,"  was  born 
and  died  ;  thence  to  Abinger  Hall — Lord 
Abinger's — a  cosy,  homeish  place,  and  back 
by  Denbies,  a  grand  mansion  on  a  high  hill. 

Aug.  12. — The  Lion  Inn  at  Dorking  once 
belonged  to  Cardinal  Wolsey,  and  the  principal 
parlor,  though  covered  with  paper,  is  really 
panelled  in  oak,  and  was  the  cardinal's  dining- 
room.  JSTear  The  Lion  is  the  old  inn  described 
by  Dickens  in  the  Pickwick  Club  as  The  Mar- 
quis of  Granby,  where  old  Tony  Weller  and  Bro- 
ther Stiggins,  the  shepherd,  lived.  After  lunch, 
drive  to  Juniper  Hall,  with  splendid  cedars. 
Here  Miss  Burner,  authoress  of  "Evelina,'1  re- 
sided ;  afterward  to  Burford  Bridge  Inn,  where 

Keats,   the   poet,  passed  his  honeymoon,  and  . 

wrote  "Endymion;"  still  farther,  by  a  charm-  176  18 

74 


DORKixa.]  ENGLAND.  [the  liox. 

ing  drive,  through   Leatherhead  to  Pulsden,  £    s. 

which  the  great  Sheridan  once  owned.     Back  176   L8 
by  5,  to  dinner.     Bill  and  carriage  at  Dorking, 

G  days, 10  10 

Aug.  13. — Leave  Dorking  at  10.30,  reaching 

London  at  11.53.     Rail, 12 


101     0 


J^ote. — This  trip  could  easily  be  accomplished  in  15 
to  20  days. 

Finest  Houses  ix  Exglaxd:  Houghton  House,  Lord 
Cholraondeley,  near  Lynn  ;  Burleigh  House,  Earl 
of  Exeter,  Stamford ;  Badminton,  Duke  of  Beau- 
fort, Bath ;  "Wentworth  House,  Earl  Fitzwilliam, 
Rotherham ;  Castle  Howard,  Earl  of  Carlisle,  Scar- 
borough ;  Blenheim,  Duke  of  Marlborough,  Oxford  ; 
Chatsworth,  Duke  of  Devonshire,  Edensor. 

Fixest  Places  ix  Exglaxd  :  Trentham,  Duke  of 
Sutherland,  Stoke ;  Bowood,  Marquis  of  Lans- 
downe,  Chippenham ;  Blenheim,  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough, Oxford  ;  Enville,  Lord  Stamford  and 
Warrington,  near  Kidderminster  (best  flower-gar- 
den in  England). 

Most  Ixterestixg  Places:  Knole,  Lord  Amherst, 
Tunbridge;  Penshurst,  Lord  De  Lisle,  Tunbridge; 
Haddon  Hall,  Duke  of  Rutland,  Matlock. 

Best  Collectiox  of  Trees:  Highnam  Court,  Gambia 
Parrv,  near  Gloucester;  Redleaf,  William  Wells, 
Tunbridge;  Deepdene,  Mr.  Hope,  Dorking;  Drop- 
more,  Lady  Grenville,  "Windsor. 


ENGLAND. 

Remarkable  Places:  Levcns  Hall,  Mrs.  Ham- 
ilton, Bowness ;  Biddulph  Grange,  Mr.  Bateman, 
Congleton;  Alton  Towers,  Lord  Shrewsbury,  Con- 
gleton;  Studley  Royal,  Earl  Do  Grey  and  Ripon 
(Fountain's  Abbey),  Ripon  ;  Elvaston  Castle,  Earl 
of  Harrington,  Derby. 

Finest  Castles:  Windsor;  "Warwick;  Belvoir;  Aln- 
wiek  ;  Arundel. 

Finest  Ruins  :  Ludlow  Castle;  Raglan  Castle;  Pem- 
broke Castle  ;  Tintern  Abbey  ;  Fountain  Abbey  ■ 
Melrose  Abbey. 

T6 


FOURTH    TOUR. 

FROM  LONDON,  TIIROUG-II  BELGIUM,  HOLLAND,  DEN2IA.EX, 
NORWAY,  SWEDEN,  RUSSIA,  POLAND,  AND  PEXJSSIA,  TO 
PARIS. 

June  6. — Leave  London  by  steamer  at  5  a.  m.  from 
St.  Catharine's  Docks  for  Ostend,  reaching  Ostend  at 
4  p.  m.  ;  or  from  London  to  Dover  by  rail,  thence  by 
steamer  to  Ostend.  Taking-  rail  at  5.30,  reach  Bruges 
at  G.10  (Hotel  du  Commerce).     Expenses,  £6  10s. 

June  7. — Taking  a  valet  de  place,  see  the  principal 
churches,  cathedral,  Hotel  de  Ville,  etc.  Leaving 
Bruges  at  12.30  by  rail,  reach  Ghent  (Royal)  at  1.45  ; 
after  lunch,  see  the  cathedral,  with  its  wonderful  pic- 
ture by  the  brothers  Ten  Eyck  (for  which  the  King  of 
Prussia  offered  two  million  francs),  and  the  convent  of 
the  Beguines,  where  there  are  nine  hundred  nuns. 

June  8. — Leave  Ghent  by  rail  at  9.15,  reaching  Ant- 
werp (St.  Antoine)  at  10.30.  See  the  cathedral,  with 
Rnbens's  celebrated  picture  of  the  "Descent  from  the 
Cross,"  and  the  "  Marriage  of  St.  Catharine  ;  "  also  the 
museum  and  other  churches,  famous  for  their  pulpits. 

June  9. — Leave  Antwerp  by  rail  at  10  for  Rotter- 

77 


A.nsTEr.PAM.]  HOLLAND.  [dolax  hotel. 

dam — two  hours  by  rail  and  two  hours  by  boat,  pass- 
ing Dort,  a  7ei7  picturesque  old  Dutcli  town,  and  ar- 
riving at  Rotterdam  at  3.  Drive  about  the  town  for 
an  hour ;  then,  taking  rail  at  4,  reach  the  Hague 
(Bejlevue)  in  forty  minutes. 

June  10. — Drive  about  the  town  and  to  the  museum, 
to  see  the  gallery.  Leave  the  Hague  at  2  by  rail,  reach- 
ing Amsterdam  at  4  (Dolan  Hotel) ;  see  the  town, 
churches,  etc. 

June  11. — By  steamer  to  Brock  and  back,  after  which 
visit  the  pictures  at  the  Musee,  and  the  palace,  as  well 
as  Mr.  Hope's  collection.  At  the  palace  is  the  largest 
hall  in  Europe,  one  hundred  feet  high,  without  a  sup- 
port. 

June  12. — Leave  Amsterdam  at  8.20  a.  m.  by  rail, 
reaching  Dusseldorf  at  2  ;  see  the  pictures,  Hopgarten, 
and  Prince  Frederick's  palace  (Hotel  Breidenbocker 
llof). 

June  18. — Leave  Dusseldorf  at  8  by  train,  reaching 
Hanover  at  2.  Drive  through  the  old  parts  of  the 
town,  to  the  beautifully-carved  old  house  of  Leibnitz, 
and  to  the  museum,  with  many  interesting  pictures, 
and  through  a  fine  old  avenue  of  limes  to  the  king's 
summer  palace.     At  Hanover,  Royal  Hotel. 

June  14. — Leave  Hanover  at  9  by  rail,  reaching  Har- 
burg  at  1.30,  and  Hamburg  (Streit's  hotel)  by  carriage 
at  3.    See  town,  water-square,  Jew  quarter,  etc. 

Xote. — The  above  trip  through  Belgium  and  Holland 
is,  of  course,  very  brief  and  imperfect,  but  may  be  made 
as  much  longer  as  necessary.  It  is  only  mentioned  inci- 
dentally here,  as  being  en  route  to  the  north  of  Europe. 

18 


COPENHAGEN.]  DEX1TARK.  [the  royal. 

June  19. — Leave  Hamburg  at  10  a.  m.,  reaching 
Altoiia  at  10.30,  and  Kiel  at  2.30,  where  dine  and 
remain  until  8  p.  m.,  when,  taking  steamer,  reach 
Korsoe  at  2  a.  m.  Leaving  Korsoe  at  7  a.  m.  by  rail, 
reach  Copenhagen  (Royal  Hotel)  at  10.30  ;  visit  Thor- 
waldsen's  Museum,  palace  and  gardens  of  Fredericks- 
burg, with  fine  views  from  terrace. 

June  20. — Drive  to  the  celebrated  Deer  Park,  as  fine 
in  sylvan  effects  and  grouping  of  trees — principally 
beeches — as  any  thing  in  England  ;  superb  single  trees 
and  beautiful  glades  and  woods ;  lunch  at  a  garden- 
house  in  the  forest,  and  drive  home  at  G,  by  the 
strand,  with  pretty  villas  and  gardens  overlooking  the 
Swedish  coast. 

June  21. — Walk  to  Rosenburg  Gardens  and  about 
the  town. 

June  22. — Leave  Copenhagen  in  steamer  at  12,  pass- 
ing Elsinore,  and  reaching  Gottenburg  about  midnight, 
stopping  an  hour  to  land  and  take  in  passengers. 

June  23. — Still  at  sea,  but  about  3  pass  into  ClirJs- 
tiania  Fiord,  the  entrance  to  which,  as  well  as  the  first 
approach  to  Ohristiania,  is  very  striking,  though  the 
general  course  of  the  Fiord  is  not  unlike  the  Hudson 
through  the  highlands ;  reach  Ohristiania  in  broad 
daylight  at  11  p.  m.  (Victoria  Hotel). 

Note. — The  author  cannot  too  strongly  recommend 
all  travellers  intending  to  make  the  tour  through  Nor- 
way, to  consult  Mr.  T.  Bennett,  No.  17,  Store  Strand- 
gade,  Ohristiania.  Mr.  Bennett,  who  is  a  most  courte- 
ous, amiable,  and  educated  gentleman,  and  has  been 
g  English  vice-consul  in  Norway  for  many  years, 
79 


OHBimAjriA.]  NORWAY.  [victokia. 

can  give  every  traveller  all  the  advice  and  counsel 
9sary  for  his  comfort,  being  himself  the  author  of  a 
most  excellent  guide-book  through  this  country,  and  is 
prepared  to  furnish  money,  carrioles,  and  every  thing 
necessary  for  a  successful  journey.  One  of  the  essen- 
tials in  Norway  is  a  complete  suit  of  -water-proof  clothes 
and  hat,  and  an  india-rubber  cloth  to  protect  the  lug- 
gage from  hard  rain,  to  which,  in  open  carrioles,  one  is 
constantly  exposed.  One  should  never  be  without  a 
bottle  or  so  of  brandy,  and  a  moderate  amount  of  bis- 
cuit and  canned  meat,  which  can  be  procured  at  Chris- 
tiania, and  still  better  at  Trondhjem,  and  which  are 
most  valuable  at  inferior  stations.  As  a  general  rule, 
you  find  at  all  stations  excellent  beer,  good  coffee, 
and  generally  fresh  salmon,  but  often  nothing 
else. 

June  24. — Walk  or  drive  about  the  town,  and  to 
Oscarhalle,  with  beautiful  pictures  and  views. 

July  4. — Leave  Christiania  (four  persons  and  two 
servants)  at  12  by  rail  to  Eishalt,  two  and  a  half 
hours ;  then  by  boat  to  Lilliehammer,  on  the  Miosen 
Lake,  arriving  at  10  p.  m.,  broad  daylight  (Mrs.  Orms- 
rud's  Hotel).  Bill  at  Christiania,  one  week,  and  five 
carriages,  £20. 

July  5. — Leave  Lilliehammer  in  open  carriage  and 
three  horses  at  7  a.  m.,  and  a  car  and  one  horse  with 
the  luggage ;  having  a  most  wonderful  drive  up  the 
Gudbransdalen  valley — immense  mountains  on  either 
side,  with  the  rapid  river  Logan  running  through.  Af- 
ter 28  miles'  posting,  stop  at  Skjeggestad  to  dine  at  1. 
Leaving  again  at  3,  reach  Yiig  at  8  p.  m.  to  sleep. 

80 


troxdiijem.j  JVOIiWAY.     [hotel  d'axgleterre. 

Charmingly  situated,  the  river  making  a  great  bend 
round  the  liouse,  backed  by  superb  mountains,  with 
snow-capped  tops. 

July  6. — Leave  Viig  at  7.30,  passing  through  mag- 
nificent but  very  wild  and  gloomy  scenery,  and  by 
some  wretched  huts  ;  reach  Broemhaugen  to  dine  at  1. 
Leaving  here  at  3,  reach  Jerkin  in  the  Dovrefield  to 
sleep,  at  10.30  p.  m.  The  last  20  miles  above  vege- 
tation, meeting  numerous  reindeer — 4,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  passing  between  two  desolate 
lakes,  and  no  human  habitations  of  any  sort  for  15 
miles. 

July  7. — Leave  Jerkin  at  3  p.  m.,  passing  over  an 
elevation  of  4,500  feet,  and  then  descending  with  great 
rapidity  on  a  fast  trot  and  even  gallop,  having  fine  views 
of  Sneehatten — the  highest  mountain  in  Norway,  8,000 
feet.  From  Kongsvold  to  Drivstuen — a  wonderful 
drive  ;  and  scenery  in  grandeur  and  sublimity  equal  to 
the  Alps ;  a  magnificent  road  the  whole  distance ; 
reaching  Ny-orne-i-opdal  at  9 — a  very  clean  station, 
where  you  get  the  first  white  bread  and  excellent 
beds. 

July  8. — Leave  Ny-orne-i-opdal  at  7.30,  passing  a 
great  ravine,  700  to  1,000  feet  deep,  and  a  great  deal 
of  grand  scenery,  and  reaching  Storen,  the  railway 
station,  at  2,  where  dine,  and,  taking  rail  at  6,  reach 
Trondhjem  (Hotel  d'Angleterre),  the  capital  of  Nor- 
.way,  at  8.40,  after  a  most  wonderful  land  journey  in 
carriages,  or  carrioles,  of  5  days  from  Christiania. 

July  9. — See  Trondhjem;  the  palace  and  cathedral, 
where  the  kings  of  Norway  and  Sweden  are  crowned. 

July  11. — Leave  Trondhjem  at  0  p.  m.  on  steamer 

81 


NORWAY.  [at  sea. 

for  Hammerfest,  the  "  Nordman  "  being  a  very  com- 
fortable boat,  with  good  state-rooms  and  excellent 
table,  though  apt  to  be  overcrowded  at  this  season. 

Juh/  12. — Arrive  at  Namsoe  about  5  a.  m.,  where 
the  boat  stops  an  hour,  and  where  passengers  go 
ashore  to  visit  the  town  ;  rest  of  the  day  the  steamer 
passes  through  -wonderful  scenery — high,  steep  moun- 
tains, sharp  and  pointed,  with  thousands  of  islands. 

July  13. — Pass  the  line  of  the  Arctic  circle  about 
4  p.  M.  Scenery  equally  wonderful  to-day ;  rugged 
sharp  mountains,  1,500  to  2,000  feet  high,  covered 
with  clouds  and  snow ;  quantities  of  islands,  and  nu- 
merous narrow  passages  hardly  wide  enough  for  the 
boat  to  pass.  At  a  distance  is  Torghatten,  1,000  feet 
high,  with  a  hole  through  it ;  also  the  Seven  Sisters, 
4,000  feet  high,  and  Hest  Mansoen  (Huntsman's 
Island).  About  10  p.  :\r.  reach  Bodo,  where  disembark 
for  an  hour  or  so ;  full  daylight,  the  sun  apparently 
setting  about  11  p.  m.  Great  numbers  of  eider  duck  in 
this  neighborhood. 

July  14. — Snow-capped  mountains,  occasional  nar- 
row passages,  and  great  fiords,  all  day. 

July  15. — Reach  Tromsoe  about  11  p.  m.  From  a 
hill  near  the  town,  the  midnight  sun  can  be  seen. 
Many  travellers  are  satisfied  to  go  no  farther  north, 
waiting  here  a  week  for  the  return-boat,  which 
usually  remains  here  several  hours,  enabling  the  pas- 
sengers to  walk  three  miles  through  deep  mud  an<J 
across  roaring  torrents  to  a  Lapp  settlement,  where 
can  be  seen  about  500  reindeer. 

July  16. — At  sea  all  day,  passing  through  fiords; 
reaching  Hammerfest,  the  most  northerly  town  in  the 

82 


NORWAY,  [at  sea. 

world,  at  11  p.  m.  Taking  a  boat,  row  out  beyond  the 
projecting  headland  of  the  harbor ;  seeing  the  midnight 
sun,  on  this  occasion  setting  about  northeast,  as  low  as 
20  degrees,  or  about  4  diameters  above  the  horizon — 
north  declination  of  the  sun,  19°  21';  altitude  of  centre 
of  sun  at  midnight,  0°  to  1°. 

July  17. — At  Ilammerfest.  Ascend  the  Thief  Fjeld, 
2,000  feet  high.  From  here  the  view  extends  beyond 
the  North  Cape,  embracing  over  60  lakes  and  fiords; 
at  midnight  the  full  sunlight.  Return  to  steamer  on 
your  downward  passage. 

Juhj  18. — Wild,  precipitous  scenery  all  day — moun- 
tains covered  with  snow,  in  some  instances  to  the 
water's  edge  with  glaciers.  Great  numbers  of  eider 
duck,  which  are  said  to  be  sucli  good  sitters  as  never 
to  abandon  their  nests,  even  when  a  rock  is  blasted 
near  them. 

July  19  to  24. — At  sea,  running  through  fiords 
and  narrow  passages,  and  finally  reaching  Trondhjem 
again,  at  9  p.  m.,  after  14  days'  steaming  (Hotel 
d'Angleterre.) 

July  20  to  20.— At  Trondhjem. 

July  27. — Leave  Trondhjem  at  5  p.  m.,  in  steamer, 
arriving  at  Christiansund  early  on  morning  of  28th 
July;  where  go  ashore,  the  boat  remaining  here  two 
hours. 

July  28. — The  town  very  peculiarly  situated  on  rocks 
around  a  circle  of  water,  with  one  very  narrow  entranco 
like  a  canal.  Eeach  Molde  about  1,  beautifully  situated 
on  a  fiord;  see  the  Leper's  hospital. 

July  21). — Leave  Molde  at  9  a.  m.  in  a  small  steamer; 
down  the  Molde  Fiord,  very  beautiful,  especially  the 

83 


MOLDE.]  NORWAY.  [iIOllSDAL  HOTEL. 

lower  part,  which  is  wonderful.  Reaching  Vebltrags- 
na?ssett  at  1  ;  where,  taking  carrioles,  drive  to  Aak, 
most  splendidly  situated  under  the  Romsdal  llorn,  said 
to  be  the  best  station  in  Norway,  except  that  at  Jerkin, 
on  the  Dovrefield.  Leaving  Aak  after  dinner,  at 
4.30,  in  carrioles,  drive  30  miles  through  the  celebrated 
Romsdalen  Pass,  under  perpendicular  and  jagged 
mountains,  2,000  to  4,000  feet  high,  through  fearful 
passes  and  by  numerous  water-falls,  to  Ormein ;  ar- 
riving at  9  o'clock,  to  sleep. 

July  30. — Leave  Ormein  at  11  in  carrioles  for  Nys- 
tuen  and  back,  14  miles ;  very  fine,  with  grand  falls. 
In  the  afternoon,  ascend  the  mountain  back  of  the 
station  at  Ormein. 

July  31. — Leave  Ormein  at  8  in  carrioles,  and,  after 
another  wonderful  drive  through  the  Romsdalen,  reach 
Aak,  to  dine,  at  1  o'clock. 

Aug.  1. — Leave  Aak  at  1,  in  carrioles,  for  Veblungs- 
ntessett,  where,  taking  steamer  for  Molde,  arrive  at 
7  p.  u. 

Aug.  3. — Leave  Molde  in  steamer  at  1,  reaching  Aal- 
simd  at  5  p.  m.  Go  on  shore  for  an  hour ;  sleeping  on 
board  steamer. 

Aug.  4. — Reach  Bergen  at  5.     Charmingly  situated. 

Aug.  5. — See  Museum,  Athenamm,  etc. ;  German 
church. 

Aug.  7. — Leave  Bergen  at  8  in  steamer,  for  the 
Hardanger  Fiord  ;  reaching  Eide,  through  grand 
scenery,  at  9  p.  m.,  and  sleeping  on  board  steamer. 

Aug.  8. — Leave  Eide  at  3  a.  m.,  passing  Ulvic  and 
Vik,  at  head  of  the  Fiord.  At  Yik  leave  the  steamer, 
if  you  wish  to  go  to  the  Voringfoss — 10  hours'  good 

8-i 


BERGEN.]  XOEWAY.       [SCANDINAVIAN-  HOTEL. 

walking  from  and  back  to  Yik.  On  from  Vik,  through 
magnificent  scenery,  passing  Utne  and  the  glacier  Fol- 
gen  Fond,  to  Odde,*  and  thence  back  to  Eide,  to  sleep ; 

leaving  the  steamer  at  5  o'clock.  An  excellent  station 
at  Eide. 

Aug.  10. — Leave  Eide  at  10  in  carrioles,  through 
wonderful  scenery  and  the  grandest  zigzag  road,  to 
Yossevangen,  where  dine  and  sleep.  An  excellent 
house  here. 

Aug.  12. — Leave  Yossevangen  in  carrioles  at  0,  over 
a  very  fine  though  very  hilly  road,  to  Stalheim,  where 
the  wonderful  descent  commences  by  the  zigzag,  twelve 
turns  being  in  sight  at  once,  into  the  valley  of  the 
Naerodal,  by  far  the  finest  scenery  in  Norway — truly 
sublime.  Reach  Gudvangen  at  3,  to  dine.  Opposite  the 
Heilfoss,  2,000  feet  high.  Taking  the  steamer  in  the 
evening,  reach  La)rdalsoren  at  12,  through  wonderful 
scenery. 

Aug.  13. — Remain  at  Lterdalsoren ;  walk  to  end  of 
the  Fiord,  and  also  in  the  other  direction  from  the 
town. 

Aug.  14. — Leave  Lnmlalsoren  at  8.30,  in  carrioles, 
and,  after  a  wonderful  drive,  reach  ILeg,  to  lunch;  after 
lunch,  pass  the  old  and  interesting  church  of  Borgund, 
built  in  the  eleventh  century.    The  drive  the  rest  of  the 

*  Remain  here,  at  Odde.  2  days,  if  desirous  of  seeing  the  Skjiegge- 
fi  iss.  the  largest  fall  in  the  Old  World ;  and  also  to  visit  the  great  ice- 
glacier,  Folgefarden,  behind  Odde.  There  are  also  some  very  inter- 
esting water-falls  —  Lothefdssen  —  and  quite  a  beautiful  drive  to 
them.  Fast  stations.  From  Odde,  by  steamer  or  boat,  1 1  hours,  to 
Vik,  and  from  there  to  the  Voringfoss  and  back,  2  days,  unless 
visited  before.  Utne,  23  English  miles  above  Odde,  on  the  0 
an  excellent  station  to  stop  at. 

8  85 


u-pore>-.]  NORWAY. 

day  runs  through  a  magnificent  pass  cat  in  the  .si«le  of 
tremendous  mountains,  bordering  beantifhl  lakes  filled 
with  islands.  Toward  night  reach  the  summit  of  tho 
Fille  Fjeld,  3,170  fret  above  the  sea,  but  quite  as  wild 
and  dreary  as  the  Dovrefield.  Above  all  vegetation, 
except  reindeer-moss  and  heather.  Pass  several  ssetors, 
with  herds  of  cows,  sheep,  and  goats,  kept  here  in  the 
summer,  and  driven  in  at  night  round  the  fires,  to  keep 
off  the  bears  and  wolves,  which  abound  here.  Many 
herds  of  reindeer  are  or  were  seen  crossing  the  glaciers 
in  many  places.  Reach  Nystuen,  on  the  summit  of  the 
Fille  Fjeld,  at  6;  a  poor  station,  where  potted  meats 
are  indispensable. 

Aug.  15. — Leave  ITystuen  at  8.30,  in  carrioles.  An- 
other magnificent  drive  through  Skogstad,  fearfully 
wild  and  grand,  and  Thune  to  Oilde;  stopping  here  to 
lunch.  In  the  afternoon  through  more  magnificent 
scenery,  by  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Strand  Fiord, 
to  Fagernaes,  to  sup  and  sleep.     An  excellent  station. 

Aug.  16. — Leave  Fagernaes  at  8.45  in  carrioles.  A 
magnificent  drive  all  day;  very  lofty  mountains,  and 
charming  views  over  lakes;  especially  the  Strand  Fiord, 
filled  with  beautiful  islands.  Reach  Skoien  at  5.  Good 
station. 

Aug.  IT. — Leave  Skoien  at  G.30  a.m.,  for  steamer  on 
Rands  Fiord  ;  driving  2  miles,  and  leaving  in  the  boat 
at  8  o'clock,  breakfasting  on  board.  Reach  the  glass- 
works at  end  of  the  lake  (50  miles),  at  12.30,  when  in 
carrioles  to  Yiig,  to  dine  and  sleep.  Scenery  on  lake 
pretty,  but  tamer  than  the  usual  Norwegian  scenery. 

Aug.  18. — Leave  Viig  at  9,  on  horseback,  to  ascend 
Krogleven,   to  the  King's   and   Queen's   Views ;   the 

86 


Stockholm.]  SWEDL'X.  [rydbero  ik.tel. 

former  the  most  exquisite  view  in  Norway.  About  11 
take  carrioles  at  foot  of  the  mountain,  leaving  the 
saddle-horses;  and,  after  a  magnificent  drive  of  3$  Nor- 
wegian (25  English)  miles,  reach  Christiania  at  4  p.  m., 
after  nearly  6  weeks'  absence,  and  a  cost,  for  4  per- 
sons and  2  servants,  of  $940  in  gold. 

Aug.  20. — Leave  Christiania  at  7,  in  steamer  The 
Excellency  Tohl  (the  best  boat),  reaching  Gottenburg 
(Gotha  Galla  Hotel)  at  midnight. 

Avg.  21. — A'isit  the  Botanic  Garden — the  statues  of 
Gustavus  Adolphns  and.  The  Rivals,  the  latter  espe- 
cially fine.  Gottenburg  is,  perhaps,  next  to  Hamburg, 
the  best-built  and.  handsomest  town  in  Northern 
Europe. 

Aug.  22. — Leave  Gottenburg  at  G  in  canal-boat  by  the 
Gotha  Canal,  the  views  on  the  Gotha  River  being  very 
pretty  and  picturesque  ;  passing  the  grim  old.  castle  of 
Bonus,  and,  by  11,  reaching  the  beautiful  falls  at  Trol- 
hfettan,  where  the  boat  takes  14;  hours  to  get  up  the 
wonderful  locks,  at  a  toll  of  S250  (silver  dollar-). 
These  falls,  the  most  considerable  in  Europe  in  their 
way.  About  2,  pass  several  locks  and  pretty  scenery 
and  country-houses,  a  large  town — YVernsborg,  and 
soon  into  the  Wener  Lake,  the  largest  in  Europe,  100 
by  50  miles,  passing,  toward  night,  into  very  narrow  pas- 
sages, and  so  again  into  the  canal,  sleeping  on  board  boat. 

Aug.  23. — Leave  boat  at  Toraboda  at  7  a.  m.  ;  break- 
fasting at  railway-station,  and  taking  train  at  10.3  \ 
reach  Stockholm  at  5.30  (Rydberg  Hotel,  one  of  the 
best  houses  in  Europe). 

Note. — The  above  route  is  better  than  either  rail  or 
■  87 


STOCKHOLM.]  SWEDES,  [rtdbebg  hotel. 

boat  for  the  entire  journey  from  Gottenburg  to  Stock- 
holm, as  the  one  day  on  the  Gotha  Canal  gives  you  the 
falls  of  Trolhsattan  and  the  prettiest  scenery. 

A  "'j.  24. — See  the  palace,  the  interior  being  as  fine 
as  any  thing  abroad,  especially  the  Dresden  China 
Boudoir,  where  the  mirror-frames,  chandeliers,  and 
even  chairs,  were  of  china.  The  private  apartments 
of  the  king  are  charming,  especially  his  armory,  smok- 
ing-room, and  antique  tankard  room,  filled  with  every 
variety  of  Scandinavian  tankards  and  drinking-vessels. 
The  Indian  and  Chinese  rooms,  atelier,  and  bedrooms, 
■were  very  perfect.  Visit  also  the  royal  stables  and 
church,  -where  are  the  bodies  of  Gustavus  Yasa  and 
Charles  XII.  After  lunch  at  2,  by  carriage  to  the 
country  palace  of  Prince  Oscar,  at  Bellevue.  Also,  to 
the  charming  summer  residence  of  the  king  at  Rosen- 
dal,  filled  with  the  most  quaint  and  extraordinary 
things :  the  Drinkhalle,  with  183  cups  of  delf  and 
glass  ;  another  room,  with  numerous  tankards,  plates, 
and  chandeliers  of  engraved  lead.  Back  to  dine  at  the 
celebrated  cafe  in  the  Deer  Garden. 

Aug.  25.  — Take  steamer,  at  11,  up  the  Malar  Lake, 
to  Drottingholm  (6  miles),  or  Queen's  Island,  belonging 
to  the  queen-dowager,  a  splendid  palace;  one  cham- 
ber, that  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  of  blue  and  gold, 
being  as  ornate  and  elaborate  as  it  is  possible  to  con- 
ceive ;  the  gardens,  fountains,  clipped  trees,  and  Chi- 
nese palace,  very  fine.     Back  to  Stockholm  at  4  p.  m, 

Aug.  27. — Take  steamer  at  8  A.  M.  up  the  Malar 
Lake,  reaching,  about  12,  the  wonderful  old  chateau 
of  Skokloster,  built,  in  1G30,  by  the  celebrated  Wran« 

88- 


crsALA.]  SWEDEX. 

gle  family,  and  now  in  possession  of  the  Brays,  the 
most  noble  family  in  Sweden.  There  is  ao1  in  Europe 
a  more  peculiar  or  distinctive  chateau  than  this:  a 
large  quadrangle,  the  galleries  filled  with  very  curious 

and  quaint  old  pictures,  and  on  and  over  the  doors  are 
sentences  in  Latin,  Greek,  and  other  languages.  The 
rooms,  which  are  very  large  and  numerous,  have  ex- 
traordinary mantel-pieces  of  carved  and  colored  wood, 
and  the  ceilings  with  projecting  figures  as  large  as  life; 
wonderful  old  cabinets  filled  with  exquisite  glass  gob- 
lets and  tankards  taken  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War. 
The  walls,  covered  with  gobelin  tapestry,  uncommonly 
fresh  and  well  preserved.  Leaving  here  by  another 
steamer,  reach,  in  1-J  hours,  ITpsala,  the  ancient  Scan- 
dinavian capital,  beautifully  situated  at  the  end  of  a 
narrow  river  or  canal.  The  cathedral  here,  built  in 
1258,  is  very  fine,  equal  in  size  and  character  to  any  in 
England.  Beneath  the  altar  is  buried  Linnaeus.  The 
tombs  of  the  great  Gustavus  Vasa  and  his  two  wives 
are  in  the  Lady  Chapel ;  so,  also,  the  crown  of  John 
III.  The  university,  which  is  scattered  about  the 
town,  was  founded  in  1477,  and  generally  contains 
1,400  students,  all  wearing  a  white  cap,  and  looking 
like  simple,  quiet,  hard-working  young  men.  Visit 
the  house  of  Linnaeus  and  his  Botanic  Garden,  having 
quantities  of  Norway  spruces  cut  into  square  blocks. 
Dine  and  sleep  at  Upsala. 

Aug.  28. — Leave  Upsala  at  8,  in  steamer  down  the 
Malar  Lake,  in  which  are  some  300  islands,  reaching 
Stockholm  at  1.30. 

Sept.  1. — Leave  Stockholm  at  2  a.  m.,  in  steamer, 
going  on  board  the  night  before,  for  St.  Petersburg; 

89 


6T.  PETERSBURG.]  RUSSIA.  [HOTEL  DE  BTT88IB. 

the  i  across  the  Baltic  often  very  rough,  until 

you  gel  among  the  islands.  Beach  Abo,  in  (Julf  of 
Finland,  at  5,  the  first  Finnish-Russian  town;  going 
ashore  for  an  hour  or  so,  but  returning  on  board 
Bteamer  to  sleep. 

t.  2. — At  sea  more  or  less  all  day,  reaching  VI- 
borg  at  7  r.  m.  ;  ashore  for  an  hour  or  so;  passing 
several  torts  to-day,  destroyed  by  the  English  during 
the  Crimean  War. 

Sept.  3. — Leaving  Viborg  early,  reach  Cronstadt  at 
3.  At  4.30,  first  view  of  the  golden  dome  of  Isaac's 
Church  and  the  spire  of  the  Admiralty ;  reach  St. 
Petersburg  at  5.30  (Hotel  de  Russie — excellent). 

Sept.  4. — Drive  to  the  Summer  and  "Winter  Palaces, 
the  Nevskoi  Prospekt,  the  fort,  and  Isaac's  Church, 
which  is  most  magnificent.  Outside,  the  base  and  col- 
umns are  of  red  granite,  or  porphyry.  Inside,  one 
mass  of  gold,  marble,  and  precious  stones;  the  grand 
altar  being  supported  by  six  columns,  50  feet  high — 
four  of  malachite  and  two  of  lapis-lazuli. 

Sept.  5. — Taking  steamer,  go  to  PeterhofF,  seeing  the 
splendid  golden  statues  and  fountains,  equal  to  Ver- 
sailles ;  the  palace  and  gardens  very  interesting. 

Sept.  6. — Leave  St.  Petersburg  at  2.30  in  sleeping- 
carriage,  on  rail  for  Moscow — 400  miles — reaching 
Moscow  at  9  next  morning  (ilme.  Billet's  Hotel). 

Sept.  7. — Taking  carriage,  drive  to  the  Kremlin, 
where  ascend  Ivan's  Tower,  having  a  wonderful  view 
of  1,500  churches,  with  their  domes — red,  blue,  yellow, 
orange,  and  green,  many  of  them  gilded — one  of  the 
most  remarkable  views  in  the  world  for  a  city.  After 
which,  drive  round  the  town  for  two  or  three  hours, 

90 


MOSCOW.]  RUSSIA.  [MADAME  BILLET'S, 

Beeing  all  the  palaces,  mosques,  monasteries,  etc.,  and 
out  to  Peterskoi,  where  Napoleon  lived  during  the 
conflagration  of  Moscow. 

Sept.  8. — To  the  Kremlin,  to  see  the  various 
churches,  filled  with  gold,  pictures,  and  precious 
stones — diamonds,  pearls,  turquoises — many  the 
of  a  shilling.  Subsequently,  through  the  vast  collec- 
tion of  robes,  mitres,  etc.,  for  the  patriarch  and  bish- 
ops, one  mass  of  the  most  precious  stones,  of  immense* 
size,  though  not  well  polished.  Here,  also,  are  great 
silver  and  gold  vessels  (kettles)  for  making  the  holy 
oil.  After  lunch,  drive  to  the  celebrated  monastery 
of  Seminoff,  3  miles  from  Moscow  ;  splendid  music  ; 
about  thirty  monks. 

Sept.  9. — To  the  Kremlin,  seeing  the  Treasury,  con- 
taining the  various  arms  of  the  different  reigns,  the  sad- 
dles, bridles,  stirrups,  swords,  etc.,  being  studded  with 
precious  stones — diamonds,  rubies,  turquoises,  emeralds, 
sapphires,  etc.  Also  the  thrones — ivory,  gold,  and 
silver,  encrusted  with  diamonds  and  rubies  and  im- 
mense turquoises.  The  collection  of  plate,  in  size, 
quantity,  and  shape,  passes  belief.  In  one  room  i-  the 
collection  of  crowns;  that  of  Alexwitch  has  881  dia- 
mond-, and  under  the  cross  an  immense  ruby.  The 
crown  of  Peter  the  Great  has  847  diamonds ;  that  of 
Catharine  L,  2,53G — splendid  stones,  to  which  t ho 
Empress  Anne  added  the  largest  ruby  in  the  world. 
The  throne  of  Michael  Romanoff  has  8,824  fine  tur- 
quoises, many  as  large  as  a  ton-cent  piece,  and  1,220 
other  jewels.  After  lunch,  drive  to  Sparrow  Hill, 
about  4  miles,  where  Napoleon,  on  the  14-th  of  Sep- 
tember,  1814,  had  his  first  view   of  Moscow.     Tim 

91 


Moscow.  1  RUSSIA.  [mad  oje  billet's. 

Opera-House  is  very  superb,  with  the  widest   • 
and  largest  orchestra  in  Europe. 

'.  10. — To  the  Romanoff  Palace,  very  small,  but 
very  characteristic  of  the  early  life  of  the  pres<  nt  royal 
family  before  coming  to  the  tin-one.  Also  to  St.  Basil's 
Church,  with  11  chapels  above  and  G  below.  After 
lunch,  to  the  Foundling  Hospital,  the  most  wonderful 
institution  of  the  sort  in  the  world.  Its  revenues  are 
600  to  TOO  millions  of  rubles — more  than  twice  the 
revenue  of  Prussia;  having  10  per  cent,  on  all  the- 
receipts  of  the  theatres,  and  the  monopoly  of  cards 
throughout  the  empire.  Since  1st  January  last  (hardly 
nine  months),  7,890  children  have  been  admitted,  and 
580,000  since  its  commencement;  25  children  daily  is 
the  average  number  left  here.  The  children  are  all 
educated  to  speak  four  languages;  and,  if  they  show 
ability,  become  tutors,  governesses,  music-teachers,  etc. 

Sept.  12. — Leaving  Moscow  in  train  at  1.30,  reach 
St.  Petersburg  at  10  next  morning. 

Sept.  13. — See  the  Ecole  des  Mines,  filled  with  pat- 
terns and  models  of  all  the  mines  in  Switzerland, 
Siberia,  etc.  ;  also  the  Winter  Palace,  with  many  pic- 
tures of  great  Paissian  battles;  also  the  crown  jewels, 
more  magnificent  than  can  well  be  described — one 
necklace,  with  diamonds  each  as  large  as  a  shilling. 
The  throne-room,  St.  George's  Hall,  and  other  halls, 
superb;  7,000  persons  reside  here  when  the  emperor 
comes  to  town  for  the  season.  In  this  palace  is  also  to 
be  seen  the  simple,  unostentatious  little  chamber  where 
the  Emperor  Nicholas  died. 

Sept.  14. — To  the  Hermitage,  which  really  requires  a 
week  to  be  seen  thoroughly.     The  magnificent  collec- 

92 


ST.  PETEP.SBrRCr.]  RUSSIA.  [HOTEL  DE  RUSSI3. 

tion  of  pictures  being  almost  unsurpassed  in  any  other 
gallery  —  Rubens,  Vandyck,  G-uido,  Teniers,  etc.,  a 
room  of  each.  The  works  of  art,  especially  marbles, 
most  superb.  Exquisite  vases,  candelabras,  tables  of 
malachite,  vert-antique,  lapis-lazuli,  pink  and  variegated 
marbles.  The  collection  of  antique  rings  very  interest- 
ing. Afternoon,  drive  to  the  great  palm-houses  and 
botanic  gardens  belonging  to  the  Czar  (on  the  Apothe- 
cary's Island),  who  pays  $45,000  a  year  for  their  sup- 
port. There  are  12  houses,  very  old  and  shabby, 
having  been  built  over  30  years ;  the  plants  are  very 
fine  and  large,  the  varieties  of  evergreens  being  over 
3,000,  two  araucarias,  over  35  feet  high,  costing 
81,400. 

Sept.  10. — By  rail  to  Tzarko  Selo,  thence  by  carriage 
to  the  palace,  the  summer  residence  of  the  emperor, 
14  versts  from  St.  Petersburg;  a  splendid  and  curious 
old  palace.  The  grounds,  roads,  arrangement  of  or- 
namental water,  quite  English  in  their  character  and 
keeping.  Also  drive  to  Paulovsky,  the  palace  of  tho 
Grand-duke  Michael.     Back  to  St.  Petersburg  by  5. 

Sept.  18. — To  the  Hermitage  again,  seeing  the  splen- 
did collection  of  snuff-boxes  and  objects  of  Peter  the 
Great,  as  well  as  the  tools,  turning-lathes,  and  various 
things  made  by  him;  also  again  revisit  the  magnificent 
gallery,  especially  the  Russian  Rubens  and  Vandyck 
rooms,  as  well  as  the  Masris,  Van  Steen,  and  Teniers 
collection.  Later  drive  to  the  Taurida  Palace,  with  its 
great  ballroom,  half  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  really 
lie  lutiful  gardens. 

•\  ±2. — Leave  St.  Petersburg  in  a  c  ibinet  j 
culler  (carriage  on  rail),  at  1,  and,  after  travelling  all 

93 


WAItSAW  ]  POLAXD.  [HOTEL  DE  L'EtT.OrE. 

n i irl 1 1 ,  breakfast  next  morning  at  the  station  in  Wilna, 
lunching  at  another  station  at  2,  and  reaching  Warsaw 

(Hotel  de  l'Enrope),  at  6  p.  m.,  after  30  hours  in  train. 

Sept.  23. — Taking  a  carriage,  drive  round  the  town, 

Beeing  the  palaces  of  the  old  Polish  nobles — the  Bobi- 

eskis,   Poniatowskis,   Brnhls,   etc.  ;    and   out  to  the 

summer  palace  of  the  emperor,  built  by  the  last  Polish 
king — certainly  the  most  charming  house,  water,  and 
grounds,  ever  imagined.  Just  beyond,  the  Belvidere, 
the  palace  of  the  Grand-duke  Constantine. 

Sept.  25. — Leave  Warsaw  at  1,  by  train,  changing 
cars  at  Bromberg;  at  Thorn  passing  the  Russian,  and 
at  Alexandravitch  the  Prussian,  frontier,  and  reaching 
Berlin  at  G  the  next  morning  (Hotel  St.  Petersburg). 

Oct.  2. — Leave  Berlin  at  6  a.  m.  by  train;  reach 
Cologne  at  9.30  p.  m.  ;  403  English  miles. 

Oct.  4. — Leave  Cologne  (Bellevue  Hotel),  at  9  a.  m., 
by  train;  reaching  Brussels  at  3.30  (Bellevue,  a  most 
excellent  hotel). 

Oct.  10. — Leave  Brussels  by  express  train,  at  9.05 ; 
reaching  Paris  (Hotel  Bristol)  at  5  p.  m. 

Xote. — The  entire  journey  from  London,  hack  to 
Paris,  including  Belgium,  Holland,  Hanover,  Denmark, 
Norway,  Sweden,  Russia,  Poland,  Prussia,  occupied  4 
months  and  4  days,  and  might  readily  have  been  accom- 
plished in  3  months.  The  entire  cost  19,446  francs — 
say  4,000  dollars  in  gold — for  actual  travelling  expenses ; 
and  for  a  party  of  4  and  1  servant,  and  in  Norway  2 
servants. 


94 


TOURS   THROUGH   SICILY  AND   SPA IX. 

PARIS  TO  MALTA,  MALTA  YIA  SICILY,  NAPLES,  POME, 
FLORENCE,  GENOA,  THE  COENICHE  ROAD,  AND  SPAIN 
TO    PARIS. 

Jan.  1. — Leaving  Paris  at  7  r.  m.  by  train  (coupi  au 
lit),  reach  Marseilles  next  day  at  noon  (Grand  Hotel 
de  Marseilles). 

Jan.  3. — Leaving  Marseilles  at  8  a.  m.  in  steamer, 
reach  Malta  third  afternoon  at  G  p.  m.  (Dunsford's 
Hotel). 

Feb.  20. — Leaving  Malta  at  5  p.  m.,  reach  Syracuse. 
in  Sicily  at  4  next  morning.  Quitting  steamer  after 
breakfast,  visit  the  fountains  of  Arethusa,  the  museum, 
the  Temples  of  Minerva  and  Ceres,  the  Ear  of  Diony- 
sius,  etc.,  returning  to  steamer  at. 11.  Reach  Catania 
(Grand  Hotel)  at  2 ;  beautifully  situated.  Leave 
steamer  here. 

Feb.  21. — See  the  town  and  the  grand  street  A^ictor 
Emmanuel;  by  carriage  to  the  magnificent  church  of 
the  Benedictines,  the  largest  in  Sicily;  then  to  tho 
remains  of  the  Greek  Theatre,  built  before  Christ,  sai.J 
to  hold  3,000  persons — the  amphitheatre  of  seats  and 
much  of  the  exquisite  carved  marble  in  the  finest  pres- 

95 


C ATAXIA.]  SICIL  Y.  [GRAXD  HOTEL. 

ervation.  After  this,  to  a  pretty  public  garden,  with 
araucarias,  palms,  aloes,  etc.,  the  banks  being  masses 
of  verbenas,  petunias,  lobelias,  to  cover  the  naked 
ground,  insteaS  of  grass.  In  the  Botanic  Garden  are 
beautiful  specimens  of  araucaria-bidwillii,  biota-cana- 
riensis,  taxodium-mucronatum,  and  casurina-torulosa. 

Feb.  22. — If  clear,  the  finest  view  of  Mount  Etna  is 
from  the  hotel.  Leave  Catania  by  train  at  3,  reaching 
Messina  at  G.40,  over  a  most  superb  road  and  through 
interesting  scenery;  many  towns  on  top  of  mountains, 
and  picturesque  old  castles.  At  Messina,  Hotel  Victo- 
ria excellent. 

Feb.  23. — "Walk  about  the  town  and  up  the  Strada 
Victor  Emmanuel  to  the  Catania  Gate.  In  the  after- 
noon drive  to  a  beautiful  view  over  the  city. 

Feb.  24. — Leave  Messina  at  8  a.  m.  in  steamer,  pass- 
ing through  Scylla  and  Charybdis,  just  outside  the 
straits,  and  by  Stromboli,  wreathed  in  volcanic  smoke, 
about  10.  At  12  reach  Lipari,  a  picturesque  town  on 
top  of  a  mountain,  where  the  boat  stops  an  hour. 
This  is  on  one  of  the  iEolian  isles.  At  4  reach  Mo- 
lasso,  remaining  here  four  hours,  and  arriving  at 
Palermo  at  noon  the  next  day  (The  Trinacria) ;  excel- 
lent hotel.  The  passage  from  Messina  to  Palermo 
should,  if  possible,  be  always  taken  by  daylight,  as  it 
is  inexpressibly  charming ;  the  most  extraordinary 
towns,  convents,  and  castles,  perched  up  on  top  of 
apparently  inaccessible  mountains — many  in  ruins. 
Palermo  itself  hardly  inferior  in  situation  to  Xaples. 

Feb.  25.— Walk  to  the  English  Garden  (beautifully 
situated  on  the  Marina),  and  to  the  elaborate  Moorish 
cathedral ;  drive  to  Baida,  a  deserted  monastery,  su- 

90 


talexmo.]  slcILY.  [trotaobia. 

perbly  situated  on  a  mountain,  with  magnificent  views 
of  Palermo  ;  from  here  to  the  gardens  of  the  Duke  of 
Ragusa,  with  a  well-contrived  labyrinth  and  rustic 
house,  on  opening  the  doors  of  "which,  a  monk  rushes 
at  you  from  one  and  blesses  you  from  another.  The 
place  itself  a  tangled  mass  of  exquisite  exotics  fall  the 
varieties  of  palms,  yuccas,  aloes,  araucarias,  acacias, 
casuarinas  20  feet  high,  india-rubber  as  large  as  apple- 
trees,  abutilons,  daphnes,  evergreens),  magnolias,  etc., 
and  camphor-trees,  through  which  run  walks  in  every 
direction. 

Feb.  20. — Leaving  the  hotel  at  10  a.  m.,  drive  in  car- 
riage to  Monte  Reale,  a  superb  old  convent  on  top  of 
a  mountain  5  miles  from  Palermo,  with  a  wonderful 
view  of  the  city,  sea,  and  valley  ;  connected  with  it  is 
a  church,  perfectly  encrusted  and  lined  with  mosaics — 
one  piece  of  floor  lately  repaired,  some  20x50  feet, 
cost  £4,000.  The  cloisters  here  are  also  very  beauti- 
ful, each  column  and  capital  being  of  different  design. 
The  view  from  the  terrace  of  Monte  Reale  is  perhaps 
as  fine  as  any  thing  in  Europe.  Visit  on  your  way  back 
the  Capuchin  convent,  containing  8,000  dried  monks — 
one  who  died  in  1G00  having  his  nails,  lingers,  and 
tongue,  quite  perfect. 

Feb.  27. — Drive  in  one  and  a  half  lours  to  Bacheria, 
seeing  the  wonderful  palace  of  the  monsters  ;  the  ave- 
nues having,  at  intervals,  on  parapets  and  pedestals, 
the  most  grotesque  figures  in  stone,  of  devils,  demons, 
etc.;  the  interior  very  magnificent,  though  in  decay; 
the  grand  drawing-room,  00  feet  square,  being  ceiled 
in  mirrors,  on  which  were  painted  various  figures;  the 
walls  of  different-colored  porphyry  an  1  marbles,  with 
9  9*7 


N.\n .:  X.II'I.:  [victokia. 

busts  and  figures  of  the  family  in  alto  relievo;  the  floor 
of  marble,  alabaster,  and  porphyry.  Another  palace 
hard  by,  belonging  to  Prince  Biso,  had  a  terrace  from 
Which  were  exquisite  views  of  Palermo  and  its  bay, 
and  a  second  hay  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains. 
The  palace  of  Prince  Bouterer  also  very  interesting, 
with  superb  views,  and  having  near  it  a  house  filled 
with  wax-figures  of  priests  in  their  different  occupa- 
tions, very  well  done.     Back  to  Palermo  at  5. 

Feb.  28. — Leaving  Palermo  at  1  in  steamer,  reach 
Naples  next  morning  at  G  (The  Victoria  Hotel). 

March  6. — Leaving  Naples  by  rail  at  10.30,  reach 
Rome  (Hotel  de  Borne)  at  7  p.  m. 

March  16. — Leaving  Rome  at  8  p.  m.  by  train  {covjie 
cu  lit),  reach  Florence  next  morning  to  breakfast 
(Hotel  de  l'Arno). 

March  22. — Leaving  Florence  by  rail  at  10. -15  a.  m., 
reach  Pisa  at  1.15.  Leaving  Pisa  by  a  later  train  at 
3.30,  reach  Leghorn  at  4.  After  dinner  at  the  hotel, 
take  steamer  at  8  p.  m.,  arriving  at  Genoa  (Hotel 
Feder)  at  5.30  next  morning.  After  seeing  the  town, 
drive  a  few  miles  to  the  Villa  Pallavicini,  not  usually 
visited  by  travellers,  but  more  remarkable  than  any 
gardens  in  Italy,  or  possibly  in  the  world.  The  estate 
is  kept  in  order  by  20  directors,  8  gardeners,  and  30 
assistants,  the  usual  pay  being  2  to  3  francs  a  day :  you 
pass  from  the  house  on  to  a  superb  terrace  of  white 
marble,  having  a  very  extended  view  over  the  city  and 
the  Mediterranean,  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  Corsica ; 
below,  a  series  of  terraces,  with  white-marble  balus- 
trades and  steps — these  terraces  bordered  by  espaliers 
of  oranges  and  lemons,   20   feet  high,   and  standard 

98 


GEXOA.]  TTJ&CANY.  [hotel  FEDER. 

camellias  (10  to  20  feet  high)  of  every  color,  in  full 
flower;  these  were  interspersed  with  large  azaJiaa  and 
rhododendrons,  also  in  hlooin.  From  the  other  side 
of  the  house  you  enter  (through  avenues  of  laurel  and 
laurestinus,  heath  in  flower  12  to  15  feet  high,  8  or 
10  varieties  of  holly)  the  beautiful  Grecian  temple  in 
white  marble,  with  exquisite  frescos.  On  the  other 
side  of  this  is  a  long  Italian  walk,  bordered  by  vases, 
and  planted  with  dwarf  oranges  in  fruit,  with  a  back- 
ground of  firs,  and  terminating  in  another  beautiful 
temple.  From  this  again  you  pass  through  narrow, 
tortuous  walks,  to  a  little  rustic  cottage,  designed 
to  show  the  contrast  between  high  art  and  simple 
Nature.  Ascending  through  dense  woods  of  holly, 
laurel,  Portugal  laurel,  and  sweet  bay,  surmounted 
by  majestic  Italian  pines,  you  come  suddenly  upon 
a  wild,  picturesque  fall,  the  water  brought  5  miles, 
forming  a  small  lake,  in  which  the  fish  are  fed  at  a 
cost  of  $2.50  a  day.  This  walk,  with  occasional  stop- 
ping-places, indicated  by  rustic  seats,  leads  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain,  upon  which  is  a  ruined  tower, 
with  superb  views  in  every  direction.  Descending 
the  mountain  through  similar  plantations,  you  come, 
amidst  dense  undergrowth  of  yew  and  holly,  upon 
some  ruins,  intended  to  represent  a  city  destroyed  by 
war — mossy  and  ivy-grown.  A  turn  in  the  walk  sud- 
denly brings  you  in  front  of  a  cavern  of  stalactites, 
brought  at  great  expense  from  every  part  of  Italy  ; 
you  pass  through  intense  gloom  and  shadow  for 
some  way,  presently  emerging  into  a  lighter  cavern, 
30  feet  square,  the  crevices  of  the  rocks  overgrown 
and  draped  with  ivy  and  parasites,  admitting  sufficient 

99 


GENOA.]  TUSCANY,  [hotel  feder. 

daylight  to  perceive  a  large  lake,  occasionally  appear- 
ing and  disappearing  between  the  columns  and  Avails 
of  the  cavern.  Your  guide  now  saluting  you,  says, 
'■  Addio,  signor!  I  shall  again  behold  you  in  the  Tem- 
ple of  Flora !  "  and  suddenly  leaves  you.  Presently, 
in  the  dim,  distant  "windings  of  this  mysterious  cavern, 
a  gilded  boat  appears,  propelled  by  a  picturesque 
Charon ;  you  enter,  and,  after  several  minutes  of  alter- 
nate light  and  shade,  passing  through  narrow,  gloomy 
passages,  where  the  dimmest  light  is  only  seen,  and 
again  into  large  caverns — luminous  through  crevices  in 
vaulted  roofs  of  rock, — you  suddenly  emerge  into  the 
bright  sun  in  a  beautiful  little  lake.  In  the  centre  is 
an  island,  on  which  stands  a  most  charming  and 
exquisitely-sculptured  temple,  containing  a  statue  of 
Diana ;  at  some  little  distance,  in  the  water,  are  four 
statues  of  the  Tritons.  There  are  several  other  small 
islands,  connected  by  Chinese  bridges,  elaborate  in 
color  and  gold ;  under  one  you  have,  from  your  boat, 
a  most  exquisite  view  of  the  Mediterranean,  some  700 
feet  below.  On  another  side  of  this  little  lake  is  a 
charming  garden,  surrounded  by  dense,  umbrageous 
plantations  of  arbutus,  oleander,  and  laurestinus,  con- 
taining a  parterre  exquisitely  laid  out  and  planted  in 
azalias  and  camellias,  of  every  shade  of  color :  in  the 
midst  stands  a  lovely  little  temple  of  purest  marble, 
called  the  Temple  of  Flora.  Here  you  disembark,  and 
are  again  received  by  your  former  guide,  who  informs 
you  that  this  grotto  and  lake  cost  nine  hundred  thou- 
sand francs,  and  occupied  four  hundred  men  daily  for 
two  years  to  complete  it.  Passing  a  cork-tree,  said  to 
be  the  largest  in  Italy,  you  come  to  a  rustic  bridge 

100 


MARSEILLES.]  FRANCE.  [grand  hotel. 

leading  to  a  summer-house,  beyond  which  is  a  swing. 
On  crossing  the  bridge,  a  loose  plank  touching  a  spring 
covers  you  with  water;  running  into  the  rustic-house 
to  get  rid  of  this,  you  find  yourself  the  centre  of  four 
horizontal  sheets  of  water.  If  you  attempt  the  swing, 
you  are  drenched  from  all  the  adjacent  trees.  Return 
to  Genoa  at  G. 

March  25. — Leave  Genoa  at  10  a.  m.,  with  vettu- 
rino  and  four  horses,  who,  for  ten  napoleons,  delivers 
you  at  Nice.  "You  stop  at  Oagoletto,  the  birthplace 
of  Columbus,  to  lunch,  reaching  Savonna  to  dine  and 
sleep  about  G. 

March  26. — Leave  Savonna  at  8.30;  reach  Oneglia 
at  5.30  to  dine  and  sleep. 

March  27. — Leave  Oneglia  at  9  ;  reach  Mentone  at 
5  to  dine  and  sleep. 

March  28. — Leave  Mentone  at  8.30,  arriving  at  Nice 
at  1.30,  and,  taking  rail  at  3.20,  reach  Marseilles  at 
9.05  p.  m.  (Grand  Hotel). 

Note. — As  the  intention  of  these  routes  is  simply 
to  be  a  guide  through  those  countries  and  {daces  not 
so  well  known  as  others,  all  details  of  what  to  see  in 
Naples,  Home,  Florence,  Genoa,  etc.  (with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  account  of  the  Pallavicini  Gardens),  have 
been  omitted  here.  In  fact,  upon  this  journey  the 
writer  merely  passed  through  these  cities,  having 
made  long  visits  to  them  in  previous  years. 

March  31. — Leave  Marseilles  at  11.30,  reaching 
Nismes  at  2.25.  See  the  beautiful  Maisou  Oarree,  the 
Amphitheatre,  and  the  exquisite  Jardin  de  la  Fontaine, 

101 


itOOTFSLLiXB ]  FRANi  [hotel  nevet. 

with  superb  fountain  and  Temple  of  Diana,  etc.,  after 
lunch.  Leave  Nlsmes  at  5 ;  reaching  Montpellier  (H6tel 
Nevet)  at  6.50. 

April  1. — Visit  the  celebrated  Jardin  Peyrou,  quito 
the  finest  in  Europe,  the  water-tower  most  exquisite, 
and  the  equestrian  statue  of  Louis  XIV.  as  fine  as  that 
of  Marcus  Aurelius  at  Rome.  The  Botanic  Garden, 
founded  by  Henry  V.,  in  1598,' very  interesting,  espe- 
cially a  Cupressus  pendula  from  Japan,  and  an  avenue 
of  clipped  Judas-trees.  The  old  Moorish  porch  of  the 
cathedral,  as  well  as  the  new  Palais  de  Justice,  are  very 
fine.  The  Musee  of  Pictures,  especially  the  smaller 
room,  one  of  the  most  interesting  galleries  in  the  world ; 
containing  11  Greuses  and  11  Tehiers,  all  in  exquisite 
order.  Leave  Montpellier  by  train  at  12.50,  reaching 
Oette  in  30  minutes;  lunching  at  an  excellent  buffet. 
On  again  by  rail  at  3,  reaching  Perpignan  at  6.50, 
where  sup.  Taking  the  first  Spanish  diligence  at  10, 
and  driving  all  night,  reaching  the  Spanish  frontier  at 
3  a.  M.,  where  luggage  is  examined.  At  10,  reach 
Geroma,  to  breakfast,  and  at  12,  taking  a  train,  reach 
Barcelona  (Hotel  de  4  XTaciones)  at  3.35. 

April  2. — Visit  the  cathedral,  where  the  instalment 
of  the  Knights  of  the  Golden  Fleece  took  place;  very 
handsome,  especially  the  stained  glass,  said  to  be  the 
finest  in  Spain;  the  churches,  Santa  Maria  del  Mar  and 
Santa  Maria  del  Pino,  Casa  de  la  Disputacion,  with 
some  fine  old  Moorish  arches.  Drive  to  the  Rambla  in 
the  evening. 

April  3. — Leave  Barcelona  at  8  o'clock  (Madrid 
time),  reaching  Tarragona  at  11.30,  a  very  ancient  and 
Spanish-looking  city  (Hotel  Fonda  de  Faris.)     Visit  the 

102 


VALENCIA.]  SPA  IX.  [FONDA  DEL  CID. 

cathedra],  the  altar  being  exquisitely  finished,  as  well 

as  the  cloisters,  said  to  be  the  finest  in  Spain ;  all  the 
columns  being  different;  one  representing  in  its  carving 
a  cat  pursuing  some  mice — the  cat  at  one  portion  pre- 
tending to  be  dead,  is  carried  off  by  the  mice  to  be 
buried,  but,  presently  awakening,  attacks  the  mice 
right  and  left. 

April  4. — Leave  Tarragona  at  8,  by  rail  for  two  hours, 
and  by  diligence,  drawn  by  six  mules,  for  three  hours, 
passing  Tortosa,  an  ancient  Spanish  town.  Taking  a 
train  about  3,  reach  Valencia  (Fonda  del  Cid),  at 
9.30 ;  passing  through  a  country  cultivated  like  a 
garden. 

April  5. — Drive  to  the  old  [Moorish  palace,  now  the 
silk-mart,  very  characteristic  and  interesting.  In  the 
afternoon  to  the  Glorieta,  a  beautiful  drive,  with  a 
charming  garden,  planted  with  trimmed  box,  with 
standard  orange-trees  in  full  blossom;  the  flower-beds 
gay  with  tulips  and  all  the  early  summer  flowers. 

April  G. — Ascend  the  cathedral,  with  the  finest  view 
in  Spain,  260  steps  to  the  top.  Taking  train  at  2.10, 
reach  Alicante  at  9.50  (Fonda  del  Vapor). 

April  7. — Drive  in  carriage  4  leagues  (2  hours)  to 
the  Arab  town  of  Elche,  situated  in  an  oasis  of  palms, 
most  Oriental  and  Asiatic  in  appearance,  from  the 
palm-  and  character  of  the  Bedouin-like  houses.  In  the 
Church  of  St.  Maria  is  a  statue  of  a  virgin,  which  is  held 
in  great  reputation — often  dressed  in  expensive  gar- 
ments and  jewels,  etc.  She  is  even  a  landed  proprietor, 
having  in  her  possession  the  finest  palms  and  orchards, 
called  "Iluertos  de  la  Virgen" — the  produce  goes  to 
pay  for  her  dresses,  candles,  and  the  expenses  of  the 

103 


r.n:i;.\i.T.\i:.]  SPAIN.  [CLUBHOUSE. 

bo   lave   her  in   charge.      The    view  from 
the   tower,   over   this    oasis  of  palms,   is   very   Btrik- 

AprU  8. — Leave  Valencia  in   steamer  at  10  r.  m.  ; 
ing  the  next  day,  at  a  distance,  Carthagena  and 
other  towns  on  the  coast,  and  reaching  Malaga  at  3  on 
morning  of  the  10th  of  April  (Hotel  Victoria). 

April  10. — Drive  a  few  miles,  to  a  charming  count ry- 
place  belonging  to  Mr.  Loring,  now  Marquis  of  Caridad, 
formerly  of  Boston.  The  garden  beautifully  arranged 
and  planted — araucarias,  palms,  deodars,  etc.,  only 
1 1  years  old,  immense  for  their  age. 

April  11. — Leave  Malaga  in  steamer  at  0  a.  m.  After 
a  very  delightful  passage  along  the  coast  of  Spain,  reach 
Gibraltar  at  4.30  p.  m. 

April  12. — See  the  town.  "Walk  through  the  gal- 
leries in  the  rock — most  extraordinary — 1,400  feet  in 
height — guns  in  every  direction — 700  in  all — 6,000  men 
in  garrison,  provisioned  for  7  years.  It  is  supposed  that 
it  is  impossible  to  take  Gibraltar,  but  not  impossible  for 
a  fleet  to  run  through  the  straits,  only  12  miles  wide. 
In  the  evening  in  carriage  to  Europa  Point,  a  most 
exquisite  drive,  not  only  from  the  views,  but  the  beau- 
tiful plants  and  gardens  on  the  road — the  houses  with 
pretty  English-cottage  effect,  geraniums  growing  wild, 
and  aloes  flowering  in  abundance. 

April  13. — Leave  Gibraltar  in  steamer  at  7  a.  m.,  and 
after  another  charming  voyage  by  the  coast,  reach 
Cadiz  at  4  p.  m.  ;  beautifully  situated  on  a  peninsula. 
The  houses  all  whitewashed,  with  green  and  blue 
verandas.  The  cleanest  city  in  Spain.  (Hotel,  Fonda 
de  Paris.) 

104 


6EVILLE.]  SPAIN.  [FONDA  I)E  PA&IS, 

Note. — From  Gibraltar  a  very  plea&nt  excursion 
may  be  made  in  two  or  three  hours,  across  the 
straits,  to  Tangier,  in  Africa;  returning  next  day  to 
Gibraltar. 

April  14. — Leave  Cadiz  at  6  a.  m.,  passing  Xeres  at  8 
(where  you  may  stop  for  a  later  train),  and  reach  Seville 
at  10.15  (Fonda  de  Paris). 

April  15. — Visit  House  of  Pontius  Pilate,  supposed 
to  be  a  copy  of  the  original  bouse  at  Jerusalem — thor- 
oughly Moorish  and  Alhambra-like  in  character,  and 
very  beautiful.  Afterward  to  the  Musce,  to  see  the 
Murillos,  of  which  the  "  St.  Thomas  giving  Alms  "  is 
considered  the  finest;  later  to  the  cathedral,  by  many 
considered  even  more  interesting  than  St.  Peter's,  the 
stained  glass  being  very  beautiful,  and  the  carvings  to 
the  two  organs  most  superb. 

April  16. — To  the  Church  of  La  Caridad,  where  are 
four  more  Murillos;  "Moses  striking  Water  from  the 
Rock"  and  "The  Miracle  of  the  Loaves  and  Fishes" 
being  considered  the  finest.  After  this  to  the  wonder- 
ful Alcazar,  the  old  palace  of  the  Moorish  kings,  more 
perfect  in  color  and  restoration  than  can  be  easily 
imagined. 

April  17. — Some  of  the  festivities  of  Holy  Week,  as 
■well  as  the  bull-fights,  usually  commence  about  this 
time,  and  are  well  worth  seeing;  the  display  during 
Holy  Week  being  even  greater  than  at  Pome — in  fact, 
they  are  of  sufficient  importance  to  make  it  an  object 
to  the  traveller  to  visit  Seville  during  this  period, 
though  it  is  apt  to  be  very  crowded. 

April  23. — Leave  Seville  by  train  at  10  a.  m.,  reach- 


CORDOVA.]  i/X  [FONDA  SUISSE. 

ing  Cordova  at  1.:'."  (Fonda  Suisse).  After  lunch, 
visit  the  cathedral,  the  purest  and  Lest  specimen  of 
Moorish  architecture  in  Spain;  nearly  1,000  columns, 
most  superb  Moorish  arches,  with  gilded  and  colored 
embroidery  in  plaster. 

April  24. — Again  visit  the  cathedral,  also  to  "The 
View,"  with  the  old  Moorish  mill,  Roman  gates,  and 
Spanish  bridge.  Taking  train  at  12,  reach  Malaga  at 
G.30  p.  M.  (Hotel  Victoria). 

HI  26. — Leave  Malaga  in  diligence  and  four  mules 
at  7  a.  m.,  toiling  up  the  mountains  for  five  hours; 
wonderful  views,  with  the  wildest  and  most  dreary 
scenery  ;  an  elevation  of  3,000  feet  above  Malaga ; 
reaching  Loja  to  dine  and  sleep — an  old  Spanish  posa- 
da,  exactly  as  it  was  forty  years  ago,  when  Mr.  Irving 
slept  here,  and  described  it. 

April  27. — Leaving  Loja  at  4  a.  m.  by  diligence  for 
railway  station,  and  by  train  at  5,  reach  Granada  at 
8.30,  and  the  Hotel  Washington  Irving  (at  the  Alham- 
bra)  at  0,  to  breakfast.  Make  your  first  visit  to  the 
•Alhambra ;  more  perfect,  delicate,  and  in  better  taste, 
than  the  Alcazar  at  Seville,  though  very  much  resem- 
bling it,  but  not  so  brilliant  in  colors ;  see  the  various 
towers,  gardens,  and  grand  views  of  the  Vega  and  the 
Sierra  Nevada. 

Note. — The  rail  being  probably  now  finished  (1SG9), 
it  will  not  be  necessary,  in  coming  from  Cordova,  to  go 
entirely  through  to  Malaga  in  order  to  get  to  Granada  ; 
but  one  can  leave  the  Cordova  and  Malaga  rail  at  a 
point  opposite  Loja,  and  thus  go  entirely  through  to 
Granada  by  rail. 

100 


THE  ALHAMBBA.]  SPAIX.  [HOTEL  WASH.  IRVIXO. 

April  28. — To  the  Alhambra  in  the  morning,  and 
afterward  to  the  Oertuja,  founded  by  Bruno,  with  won- 
derfully rich  marbles  from  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and 
mosaic  tables. 

April  29. — To  the  Alhambra  in  the  morning;  later 
to  the  Gardens  of  the  Generallif,  the  old  summer- 
palace  of  the  caliphs,  beautifully  kept  up,  and  the  trees 
(cypress)  very  curiously  trained ;  charming  roses  and 
beautiful  streams  of  water  in  every  direction.  In  the 
palace  is  a  very  attractive  portrait  of  Boabdil,  the  last 
Moorish  king,  with  a  mild  and  pleasant  face,  and  also 
of  all  the  Moorish  and  Christian  kings  and  queens. 

April  30. — To  the  royal  chapel  in  the  town  of  Gra- 
nada, seeing  the  beautiful  tombs  of  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella, also  of  Philip  le  Bel  and  Crazy  Jane,  his  wife,  as 
well  as  the  sword,  crown,  and  sceptre,  of  Isabella.  In 
the  afternoon  drive  to  the  spot  where  Isabella  erected 
a  church  in  commemoration  of  her  escape  from  the 
Moors  on  the  capture  of  Granada,  by  concealing  her- 
self in  a  laurel-bush,  which  still  exists.  In  evening 
visit  at  the  Alhambra,  the  towers  of  the  Captive  Prin- 
cess, and  the  three  Princesses  Zaida,  Zoraida,  and  Zo- 
raihaida,  so  beautifully  told  by  Washington  Irving ; 
also  the  Mosquita,  a  little  imitation  of  a  Moorish 
mosque,  built  by  a  Spanish  colonel. 

May  3. — Leaving  the  Alhambra  at  4  a.  m.  by  car- 
riage for  the  town  below,  take  the  diligence  and  10 
mules,  breakfasting  at  10  a.  m.  in  a  curious  old  po 
at  Jaen,  and  arriving  at  Menzibar  at  4.30  r.  m.  Here 
dine  at  station,  and,  taking  rail  at  6  r.  m.,  reach  Madrid 
next  morning  at  G.30  (Fonda  de  Paris). 

May  4. — Drive  round  the  town  and  to  the  magnifi- 

107 


MADKID.]  SPAIN.  [FONDA  DE  PAlUS. 

cent  museum  of  pictures,  wonderfnl  in  its  collection 
of  Murillos  and  Velasquez ;  also  to  the  Armeria, 
seeing  the  splendid  collection  of  armor  and  arms.  In 
the  afternoon,  drive  in  the  Prado. 

May  5. — To  the  Gallery;  later,  palace  and  stables, 
containing  150  splendid  horses  —  some  magnificent 
Andalusians  ;  hot  and  cold  baths  for  the  horses.  In 
the  carriage-houses  are  nearly  100  carriages,  of  different 
styles.  In  the  afternoon  to  Toledo,  returning  to  Mad- 
rid next  day. 

May  6. — Taking  train  at  8.30,  reach  the.  famous 
Escurial  at  10.30.  This  wonderful  combination  of 
palace  and  mausoleum,  built  by  Philip  II.  in  1567  (the 
resting-place  of  himself,  as  well  as  that  of  his  father, 
Charles  V.),  cost,  it  is  said,  £800,000;  contains  1G 
courts,  40  altars,  1,111  windows  inside  and  1,560  out- 
side, 12,000  doors,  15  cloisters,  86  staircases,  3,000  feet 
of  fresco,  89  fountains,  and  32  leagues  (160  miles)  of 
surface.  Nothing  can  well  be  more  severe  or  gloomy, 
especially  the  little  dark  cell  opening  into  the  church, 
where  Philip  died.  A  portion  of  the  palace,  some- 
times used  by  the  present  queen  (since  driven  from 
the  kingdom),  is  lovely — the  walls,  doors,  and  ceilings, 
exquisitely  inlaid  in  marquetrie ;  the  tapestry  also  very 
wonderful,  many  of  the  designs  by  Teniers  being  still 
perfectly  fresh.  The  Casa  del  Principe  is  also  a  charm- 
ing little  palace,  the  walls  and  ceilings  being  exquisitely 
decorated.     Return  to  Madrid  at  8.30  p.  m. 

May  11. — Leave  Madrid  by  train  at  3.30,  reaching 
Biarritz  at  noon  next  day  (Hotel  de  France). 

May  13. — Leave  Biarritz  at  12,  reaching  Bordeaux 
(Ilotel  de  France)  at  5.30. 

103 


tours.]  FRANCE.        [hotel  de  l' universe. 

May  15. — Leave  Bordeaux  at  9.30  by  rail,  reaching 
Tours  (Hotel  de  l'Universe)  at  5.  Beautiful  excursions 
maybe  made  from  Tours  to  the  great  chateaux  of  Am- 
broise,  Blois,  Chaumont,  Chambord,  etc.,  etc. 

May  17. — Leave  Tours  at  11.30  by  rail,  reaching 
Paris  (Hotel  Bristol)  at  4.40. 

Xote. — The  journey  from  Malta  through  Sicily  anil 
Spain  occupied  about  three  months ;  the  actual  jour- 
ney through  Spain  a  little  over  six  -weeks,  at  a  cost, 
for  four  persons  and  one  servant,  of  eight  thousand 
francs — say  sixteen  hundred  dollars  in  gold. 
10  109 


INDEX. 


Aak.  84. 
Aalsund,  84 

Abbotst'ord.  17. 
Aberdeen,  22. 
AberfeWie,  31. 
Aberfoil,  IS. 
Abergwili,  67. 
Aberystwith,  69. 
Abinger,  74. 
Abo,  90. 
Acbnacarry,  20. 
Aldowrie,  20. 
Alhambra,  106. 
Alicante.  103. 
.Althorp.  61. 
Altona.  79. 
Alton  Towers,  33. 
Alum  Bay,  51. 
Ambleside,  14. 
Ampthill,  55. 
Amsterdam,  78. 
Aimesley  Hall,  28. 
Aristey'B  Cove,  41. 
Antwerp.  77. 
Appcldercombe,  51. 
Ardeseraig,  19. 
Arra  Force,  16. 
Arundel  Castle,  50. 
Audley  End,  56. 

Babbicomb,  41. 
Badminton.  39. 
Bakewell.  32. 
Ballycluig,  21. 
Ballock.  18. 
Balmoral.  22. 
B.uiavie.  19. 
Bangor.  12. 
Barcelona,  102. 
Barncluith,  19. 
Basingstoke,  43. 
Batb,38. 


I  Beaumaris  Castle,  12. 
[  Bellevue,  88. 
!  Belmont.  8. 

Belvoir  Castle,  27. 

Ben  Nevis,  19. 

Bergen,  84. 

BerPin,  94. 

Berrv  Pomeroy  Castle,  41. 

Biarritz,  108. 

Bicton.  40. 

Birnam  Wood.  21. 

Black  Rock  Castle,  7. 

Blackwater,  8. 

Blair  Castle,  21. 

Blaize  Castle.  65. 

Blarney  Castle,  7. 

Blenheim,  52. 

Bodo,  82. 

Bonchurch,  51. 

Bowness,  14. 

Bordeaux.  108. 

Borjund,  85. 

Boston.  27. 

Boughton  House.  CO. 

Bowder  Stone.  15. 

Bowood,  39,  64. 

Bray.  11. 

Brighton,  50. 

Brinkinalt,  69. 

Brixton.  51. 

Brcek,  78. 

Brreuihau^en,  81. 

Bromham  Church,  04. 

Brother's  Lake,  16. 

Brougham  Hall,  16. 

Bruges.  77. 

Brussels.  94. 

Buckingham.  53. 

Burleigh  House,  59, 


Cadiz,  104. 
Cadzow,  19. 


110 


INDEX. 


Cagoletto,  101. 
Caflender,  is. 
Cambridge,  5(i. 
Canterbury,  45. 
Cappoqtiin,  8. 
Cardiff-,  07. 
Craisbrook,  51. 
Carmarthen,  07. 
Carnarvon,  12. 
Carton,  11. 
Castle  Ashby,  61. 
Castle  Howard,  24. 
Catania.  95. 
Cawdor  Castle,  29. 
Cette,  102. 
Chariecote,  36. 
Chatsworth.  32. 
Chepstow,  00. 
Chester.  12. 
Chichester,  50. 
Chippingham,  39. 
Chirk  Castle,  69. 
Cheltenham.  37. 
Christiania,  79. 
Christiansimd,  83. 
Cleifden,  63. 
Clearwell,  66. 
Clifton,  65. 
Clipstone  Park,  26. 
Clumber,  ~0. 
Clyde,  lit. 
Cobham  House,  45. 
Codrington  Hall,  39. 
Cologne,  94. 
Congletoh,  32. 
Copenhagen,  79. 
Cordova,"l00. 
Cork,  7. 

Corsbam  House,  39. 
Crinan  Canal,  lit. 
Cromwell's  Bridge,  9. 
Cronstadt.  90. 
Cmok's  House.  16. 
Crummock  Lake,  16. 
Culloden,  20. 
Cumberland  Cavern,  31. 

Dalkeith,  22. 
Dawlish,  41. 
Deene  Park,  GO. 
Deepdene,  74. 
Deer  Park.  79. 
Denbies,  71. 
Derby,  28. 
Derwent  Water,  13. 
Devizes,  64,  65. 


Docray.  16. 
Dorlshtraorc,  19. 
Dorking,  74. 

Dort,  78. 
Dovrefjeld.  81. 
Downton  Castle,  71. 
Downton  Hall,  72. 
Dropmore,  62. 
Drottingholm,  88. 
Drvburgh,  17. 
Drvslyhn  Castle,  67. 
Dublin,  11. 
Dumbarton,  19. 
Dunoon,  19. 
Dunstable,  61. 
Durham,  23. 
Dusseldorf,  78. 
Dynevor  Castle,  67. 

East  Cowes,  52. 
Eastgate  House,  45. 
Eaton  Hall,  18. 
Edinburgh,  17,  22. 
Eide.  84. 
Eishalt,  80. 
Elche,  103. 
Ellen's  Isle,  18. 
Ellery,  15. 
Elvaeton  Castle,  28. 
Enville  Hall,  72. 
ErlstokePark,  C4. 
Escurial,  108. 

Fagemres,  SO. 
Farming  Woods.  00. 
FarringYord  lion-''.  51. 
Father  Matthew,  8. 
Fermoy,  8. 
Fille  Fjeld.  86. 
Florence,  98. 
Fountain  Abbey,  23. 
Foyers,  20. 
Freshwater,  51. 

Gad's-hill  House,  45. 
Gap  ot'Dunloe,  10. 
Gates  Grath,  16. 
Genoa,  us. 
Geroma,  102. 
Ghent,  77. 

Giant's  Causeway,  12. 
Gibraltar,  104. 
Glasgow,  18. 
Glengarin,  9. 
Glenquoicb,  21. 


Ill 


IXDEX. 


Gloucester,  38. 
Golden  Grove,  67. 
Qongane-Barra,  9. 
Goodrich  Castle  and  Court.  37. 
Goodwood.  50. 
Gotha  Canal.  87. 
Gottenbnrg,  79,  87. 
G<»w-Barrow  Park,  1G. 
Granada,  106. 
Grand  Tully,  21, 22. 
Grantham,  27. 
Grassmere,  15. 
Greenock,  19. 
Greta  Hal!,  16. 
Gudbransclalen,  80. 
Gudvangen,  85. 
Guy's  Cliff,  35. 

Haddon  Hall,  31. 
Ha?g,  85. 
Hagley,  35,72. 
Hague,  78. 
Hamburg,  78. 
Hamilton  Palace,  18. 
Hammerfest,  82. 
Hanover,  78. 
Hardanger  Fjord,  84. 
Harleston,  61. 
Harrogate,  24. 
Harrow-on-the-Hill,  62. 
Hatfield  House,  61. 
Haworth,  25. 
Heilfoss,  85. 
Henbury  Cottages,  65. 
Herbert.  10. 
Hereford.  37. 
Hesslington  Hall.  24. 
Hest  MansOen,  82. 
Hisrhnam  Court.  38. 
Holkham,  59. 
Holm  Lacev,  37. 
Holyhead,  12. 
Honister  Pass.  16. 
Hoole  House,  13. 
Houghton  House.  58. 
Huntsman's  Leap,  68. 

Inchigeelagh,  9. 
Ingestrie,  34. 
Innisfallen,  10. 
Inverlochy  Castle,  19. 
Invergarry  Castle,  20. 
Inverness,  20. 

Jaen.  107. 
Jerkin,  81. 


Juniper  Hall,  74. 

Kate  Kearney,  10. 
Keeiman  Eign,  9. 
Keighley,  25. 
Kenihvorth,  36. 
Kenmare,  9. 
Kerry.  9. 
Keswick,  15. 
Kettering,  60. 
Kidderminster,  72. 
Kiel,  79. 
Killarney,  10. 
Killiecrankie.  21. 
King's  Lynn.  57. 
Kingstown.  12. 
Kirkstone.  16. 
Knolle.  46. 
Knowsley.  13. 
KorsOe,  79. 
Krogleven.  86. 
Kyle  of  Bute,  19. 

Lserdalsoren,  85. 
Lampbey.  68. 
Landlilo.  67. 
Lacock,  39. 
Lea,  7. 

Lea  Castle.  73. 
Lea  Hurst,  31. 
Leamington.  35. 
Leasowes,  72. 
Leeds.  85. 
Legerthrait.  lo. 
Leghorn,  98. 
Leigh,  7. 
Levens  Hall.  14. 
Lichfield.  35. 
Lilliehamnier,  80. 
Limerick.  10. 
Lincoln.  27. 
Lipari,  96. 
Lismore.  8. 
Liverpool,  13. 
Llanberris,  12. 
Llangollen,  70. 
Locbiel,  20. 
Loch  Katrine.  18. 
Loch  Lochy.  20. 
Loch  Lomond.  IS. 
Loch  Ness.  20. 
Loch  Oich,  20. 
Loja,  106. 
Longleat.  64. 
Longmuir.  29. 
London.  63. 


112 


INDEX. 


Lowdore  Falls,  16. 
Lowther  Castle,  17. 
Ludlow.  71. 
Luscomb.  41. 

Lyulph's  Tower,  13. 

Macbeth  Castle,  20. 

Macclesfield.  32. 

Madresfield  Court.  37. 

Madrid.  107. 

Malaga,  104, 106. 

Malar  Lake,  83. 

Mallory,  8. 

Malvern.  37. 

Mamhead,  41. 

Manorbeer,  68. 

Margate,  45. 

Marlborough,  65. 

Marquis  ofGrauby  Iun,  74. 

Marseilles,  95. 

Malta,  95. 

Matterdale,  16. 

Matlock,  31. 

Mavnootb,  11. 
Melrose,  IT. 
Menai  Bridge,  12. 
Meutone,  101. 
Meuzibar,  107. 
Menzies,  21. 
Messina,  96. 
Middleton  Park.  67. 
Midnight  sun,  82. 
Milton  Abbey,  59. 
Molasso.  96. 
Molde,  83. 
Monmouth.  60. 
Montpellier,  102. 
Moor  Park.  72. 
Moscow,  90. 
Mount  Etna,  96. 

Njerodal.  85. 
Namsoe.  82. 
Naples,  98. 
Needles.  51. 
Newland  Vide,  16. 
Newport,  52. 
Newstead  Abbey,  27. 
Nice,  101. 
Nismes,  101. 
Northampton.  60. 
Northcourt,  51. 
Nottingham,  27. 
Nv-orne-i-npdal,  81. 
Nystuen,  84 


Oakley  Park,  71. 
Oban,  19. 
Odde,  85. 
Oilde.  86. 
Oneglia,  101. 
Ormein,  84. 
Osborne  52. 
Oscarhalle,  80. 
Ostend,77. 

O'Sullivan's  Cascade,  10. 
Oswestrv.  69. 
Oxford,  52,  73. 

Palermo,  96. 
Paris,  94. 

Park  Hall.  69. 
Patterdale,  16. 

Paulovsky.  93. 
Pembroke.  68. 
Penrith,  16. 
Penryn.  12. 
Pcnshurst,  47. 
Perpignan,  102. 
Perth,  22. 
Peterborough,  59. 
Peterhoff,  90. 
Phoenix  Park.  11. 
Piercefield,  66. 
Pike.  8. 
Pisa,  9-i. 

Plas  Newydd,  12. 
Pokington.  69. 
Port-mouth.  50. 
Powerscourt.  11. 
Prior  Park.  40. 
Palsden,  75. 
Punch-bowl,  68. 

Queen stown,  7. 


Raglan  Castle,  66. 
Raise  Gap,  15. 
Raleigh,  8. 
Kams^ate.  45. 
Rands  Fiord,  80. 
Redleaf.  48. 
Ripon,  23. 
Rochester,  45. 
Rome.  98. 
Romsdalen,  84 
Rookery,  74. 
Rorthrait,  16. 
Rosenbur-:.  79. 
Rosendal.  88. 
Ross,  10,  37. 

113 


INDEX. 


Rotherham.  85, 
Rothesay,  19. 
Rugbj 
Ragefy,  84. 
Rydal,  15. 
Ryde,  51. 
Rushton,  GO. 

Salisbury.  42. 
Bandon,  34. 
Sandringham,  57. 
Sarum,  42. 
Savenack,  65. 
Savonna,  101. 
Scarborough,  24. 
Scylla,  96. 
Setollers,  16. 
Seven  Sisters,  82. 
Sbanklin,  51. 
Sheffield,  25. 
Sherwood,  26. 
Shrewsbury.  60. 
Shugborougu,  34. 
Skjeggestad,  80. 
Skjieggefoss,  85. 
Skoien,  86. 
Skogstad,  86. 
Skokloster,  88. 
Sloperton,  64. 
Sueehatten.  81. 
Snowdon,  12. 
Southam,  38. 
Southampton,  52. 
Stackpole  Court,  68. 
Stacks,  68. 
Stafford.  34. 
Stalheim,  85. 
Stamford.  59. 
Stirling.  17. 
Stockholm,  87. 
Stoke,  38. 
Stoke  Pogis.  62. 
Stonehenge.  42. 
Stoneleitrh  Abbey,  3G. 
StOren,  81. 
Stowe,  53. 
Strada  Florida,  68. 
Stratford.  36. 
Strathfieldsaye,  43. 
Stromboli.  96. 
Studley  Royal,  23. 
St.  Albans,  62. 
St.  Gtovan's.  68. 
St.  John's  Vale.  16. 
St.  Leonard's,  49. 


st.  Petersburg,  90,  92. 
Syracuse,  05. , 

Tangier,  105. 
Tarragona,  102. 
Taymouth,  22. 
Tenby,  67. 
Thief  Fjeld,  S3. 
Therlmere.  15. 
Thoresby,  26. 
Threlkeld.  16. 
Tintern,  66. 
Tisbury,  42. 
Tixall,  34. 
Toledo,  108. 
Toraboda,  87. 
Torghatten,  82. 
Torquay.  41. 
Tortosa.  103. 
Tours,  109. 
Trentham,  33. 
Trolbsettan,  87. 
TromsOe.  82. 
Trondbjem,  80,  83. 
Trossachs,  18. 
Troy  House.  66. 
Tunbridge  Wells,  46. 
Ty  Gwyri,  67. 

UlPwater,  16. 
Ulvic,  84. 
Upsala,  SO. 
Urquart  Castle,  20. 
Utue,  S5. 

Valencia,  103. 

Valle  Cruris  Abbey,  70. 

VeblunfrsruESset,  84. 

Veitcli.40. 

Ventnor.  51. 

Viborsr,  80. 

Vik.  84. 

Villa  Pallavicini,  OS. 

Voringfoss.  84 

Vbssevangen,  85. 

Viig,  80. 

Wardour  Castle,  42. 
Warwick,  35. 
Watcomb.  41. 
Welbeck  Abbey,  26. 
Wcntwortb  House.  25. 
West  Cowes,  52. 


114 


IXDEX. 


Westwell  Hall,  27. 
Wfflersley  Hall,  31. 
Wilton  House,  42. 
Winchester,  43. 

Windermere,  14. 
Windsor.  62. 

Winefield  Manor-house,  31. 
Wuiiaton  Hull.  2S. 


Wolseley  Hall,  35 
Worcester,  36. 

Xeres,  105. 

'  Yarmouth,  51. 
York.  24. 
Youglial,  8. 


115 


THE     END. 


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CONTAINING    THE 

TIME-TABLES  OF  THE  RAILWAYS 

of  the  United  States  and  the  Canada?  ;  also, 
ONE    HUNDRED    RAILWAY    MAPS. 

TOGETHER  WITH 

A  Monthly  Account  of  Railways  and  their  Progress, 

AND 

ANECDOTES    AND     INCIDENTS     OF    TRAVEL. 


NEW  YORK  ILLUSTRATED: 

CONTAINING 

48  PICTURES,  ENGRAVED    IN  THE  BEST  STYLE. 

1  vol.,  Svo.    Price,  paper  covers,  50  cents  ;  cloth,  $1.00. 


HAND-BOOK  OF  AMERICAN  TRAVEL. 

Xew  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged. 

In  Three  Parts:  Part  I.  Northern  and  Eastern  Tour.  Part  IT. 
Western  Tour.  Part  III.  Southern  Tour.  Published  separate- 
ly, and  also  complete  in  one  volume. 


n 


